Difficult clutch pull on '96 Husky WXC250

[biglou]

Does anyone know specifically how much length can be added to the clutch actuating arm (on top of the case) to ease the clutch pull on a 96 WXC250? I have seen the procedure done for a Yamaha WR or YZ, and they quoted a maximum amount that could be added to the overall length of the arm.

If there are any other ideas to help ease clutch pull, please share

. We have put on a new cable and while this helped greatly, we are still looking for a little less effort. Thanks in advance.

Louis.

 

[tm-enduro]

If you're not against spending a couple hundred dollars, a hydraulic clutch would help alot. A much cheaper route is to purchase a Motion Pro clutch cable (they are longitudinally aligned rather that spiral wound for easier pull), and polish and lube the clutch lever pivot (with some slick lube). I've had very good luck with the above mentioned tip. Different levers can also help. Some motors have the poor seal around clutch actuating rod that can allow water in and rust the rod causing very poor clutch actuation (my 94 kx250 did that). If so, replace the seal and lube the shaft.

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[MR.WR]

I had mine extended a few mm's on my 90 YZWRA 250. There is a breather vent that is really close to the actuating arm so we were limited in the overall lenght. That mod made a difference in the clutch pull. You'll just have to look at arm and check for clearence with reguards to extending the clutch actuaing arm..

Good Luck

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District 36 Member
AMA Member
99 GasGas EC200

 

[biglou]

Thanks for the tips so far. A couple of points: We have given some thought to the hydraulic clutch ($). There is another friend that rides a newer (2000, I think) 360 Husky and his pull is a little difficult as well. We are wondering if this is just a trait of the Huskies?

The big concern with lengthening the lever arm is not to add so much that the clutch won't fully disengage. BTW-This is on a riding buddy's bike who happened to ask me what I thought about easing the clutch pull, so I thought I would consult my largest resource-DRN.

Thanks again.

 

[bud]

The clutch pull on my 00 wr250 seems easy enough. That is, with the lever cut down to about 2/3 of it's original length, 1 finger operation is a bit stiff, but with 2 fingers it's fine.

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[Smail's98KTM]

There is now avaliable a hydrualic to cable clutch lever assembly and it works good but if you want to go the best route just switch to a new hydrualic system....$$$

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Katooms rule

 

[weimedog]

I had a 1998 WR360 Husqvarna. It had a two finger clutch pull with a fresh cable .. yours shouldn't be any harder. I had honda's where the clutch basket would get grooves and make it harder to pull the clutch. This didn't happen with my Husky but I am also much older now. If a new cable with smart routing doesn't work then take a peek at the clutch basket. Its not something typical of those husqvarna 360's.


WJL

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2001 VOR503 V-Cross
1982 husqvarna XC430
1974 Bultaco Frontera 360
6 Kids, Four Ride, 3 race. (cr125, yz80, 2 KX125's)
Case 780, INT 1066, Ford LTL9000...and a Percheron

[This message has been edited by weimedog (edited 04-10-2001).]

 

[berg1]

I had a 93 wxc360 and it was stiff, I changed to a mid 90's cr250 lever and perch
(MSR) and modified it to accept the cool Husky adjuster. Then I put on a motion pro terminator cable, this combo was a big improvement. Hope this helps.

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