Digital Photography

[wayneg]

I've been trying to take some photos for our club web site, and was wondering if anyone has got any advice.

I have just bought a cheap Sony DSCP72 3.2 megapixel 3x zoom point and shoot camera, and have been having problems getting any clarity in the photos at all.

They're basically fairly slow motion action pictures (it is observed trials ;) ), and I'm having problems getting the timing, focus and the silly freaking shutter to work at exactly the correct moment. The typical thing with trials seems to be that the rider will slow right down for a turn, and then zip over the next obstacle, and by the time the shutter activates I've usually only got half the bike in the picture - which kind of looks a bit silly :laugh:. I also seem to either get the background in focus, and the rider as a blur, or the rider in focus and a mostly green blurry background.

Does anyone have any suggestions?? I have looked at various digital photography web sites for advice, but was wondering if anyone with more experience has any kind and thoughtful suggestions. I do understand that the camera is probably not the best for doing this sort of stuff, however I had a pretty low budget when I bought the camera (I also need to buy a new front tyre and fork brace for my bike - which is a higher priority).

I do have some samples already posted on the web site, but only the shots where the bike is almost stopped are really any good. The address is http://www.ixion.org.nz if you want to have a look.

Thanks in advance....

 

[Danman]

Mine takes a while to capture the pic and I have the same problem is you. Keep the rider centered in the shot and lead them a bit. That way when the camera takes the shot he will be a right spot.

 

[markthomps]

I've been shooting mx photos for 30 years (sheesh) for publication, so this is my two pesos' worth: Use a film camera and have it processed with a Picture CD for a bit more additional cost. Not only do you get prints shot on "fast" film that can easily capture the nonstop flurry of action of a trials (uh huh), but the picture CD gives you digital copies for your club web site and whatever. Even relatively high end and pricey digital cameras have some built-in shutter lag and there's no fix per se. Nature of the beast and the cheaper or older ones can be awful this way. The only other alternative is to work on your timing and learn just how much of a shutter lag you need to allow for and train yourself and your finger accordingly. However the film/CD approach makes a lot more sense.

 

[wayneg]

Thanks for the advice. I think that I'm going to have to re-calibrate my trigger finger for better results (mind you if it takes as long as it took me to learn 'some' throttle control it could be a long wait).

Is it possible that being too close would make the blur/focus problem worse?? I'm generally only standing a few few away from the rider (usually because of the terrain or the amount of trees etc in the way), and even though they are going slow, there isn't usually much time to snap off the shot before something like a tree gets in the way - maybe if I stood off a bit and used the zoom more it may work a bit better??

 

[CaptainObvious]

Many point and shoot cameras have several modes for the shutter (no-flash, red-eye reduction, and infinity focus). If you have these features, turn the flash off and set the camera for infinity focus. That will give you an instant shutter.

 

[High Lord Gomer]

I have a similar camera (DSC-S75) and with the auto-focus I have to hold the button down halfway for a second or so for it to focus.  At that point I have a little green light near the viewfinder that goes from blinking green to solid green.  It will hold that focus (with the button halfway in) for several seconds and will instantly take the picture whenever I push the button the rest of the way in.

For fast action shots, I pre-focus by pointing at something that is the same distance and similarly lit as what I want to catch when it comes.  Once focused, I then follow the rider, keeping them centered, and continue following them even after I have pushed the button.  You may get a somewhat blurred background, but the rider will usually be sharper.  I also usually zoom out some knowing that I can trim off what I don't want, but I can never add anything back in.

There's also many "auto" settings that I found it better to override.  I change the auto-ISO to the fastest "film speed" possible (on mine, 400).  I usually turn off the flash and always turn off the digital zoom.

It's digital so it's "free" to try all of the settings in different combinations to see what works.

 

[wayneg]

Thanks very much for the advice guys, I'm going to try everything out the next time we ride, and hopefully notice an improvement with the quality of photos.

Thanks again :thumb:

 

[markthomps]

Wayneg: generally, standing too close will require longer for the camera to focus, as it has too many things to beam in on. Plus when you're close, any blurring is very obvious. So maybe a little more space will help. Most of the other advice posted is also good, but I'd still opt for film and a picture CD. No need to train your fingers.