E4OD Help!
- Thread starter MACE
- Start date
A common problem is the transmission range sensor. Same thing as the safety neutral switch.
It bolts to the outside of the tranny where the shift shaft sticks out.
It is an easy repair. I would "try" that first.
What is the actual code you are getting? Might help with some other diagnostic possibilities.
It bolts to the outside of the tranny where the shift shaft sticks out.
It is an easy repair. I would "try" that first.
What is the actual code you are getting? Might help with some other diagnostic possibilities.
- Thread starter
- #3
BTW '93 E350 Club Wagon w/460cid, 75k miles
I'm definitely getting 632 which is "transmission control switch (TCS) circuit did not change state during KOER".
I also got 628 "Excessive converter clutch slippage" during engine off.
I may have gotten 32 "TPS circuit interference" but the flash sequence was different than the other two.
The rest of the story is that I changed the fluid (including converter) and put in a new filter with M1 ATF (if it works in my forks it must be good for the trans :D ). Normal driving around town for about 200miles I noticed no change with the new fluid and didn't expect any. We next did a 200 mile tow of our 24foot toy box. OD disengaged. Normal operation under heavy load. Then when we next drove around town we started getting a harsh hit-in-the-small-of-the-back shifting. All gears and the OD are harsh like it thinks we are using heavy throttle. I also have noticed a shudder twice or thrice that I think was the converter clutch. It went away if I let up a bit on the throttle.
Could the new fluid have washed loose some crud that is holding a pressure regulator on full?
I'm definitely getting 632 which is "transmission control switch (TCS) circuit did not change state during KOER".
I also got 628 "Excessive converter clutch slippage" during engine off.
I may have gotten 32 "TPS circuit interference" but the flash sequence was different than the other two.
The rest of the story is that I changed the fluid (including converter) and put in a new filter with M1 ATF (if it works in my forks it must be good for the trans :D ). Normal driving around town for about 200miles I noticed no change with the new fluid and didn't expect any. We next did a 200 mile tow of our 24foot toy box. OD disengaged. Normal operation under heavy load. Then when we next drove around town we started getting a harsh hit-in-the-small-of-the-back shifting. All gears and the OD are harsh like it thinks we are using heavy throttle. I also have noticed a shudder twice or thrice that I think was the converter clutch. It went away if I let up a bit on the throttle.
Could the new fluid have washed loose some crud that is holding a pressure regulator on full?
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doesn't sound good mace but it might not be real bad.
I had shudder on 2 of the work vans and one was the clutch packs and one was the torque converter. Big bucks for me. The hard shifting can be caused by the computer going into failsafe mode when it senses a problem such as converter slippage. You said it started after a pull. You can reset the computer by diconnecting the battery for 15mins I think or turning the key off and on 3 times. I did it on one of the vans 6 months ago and no problems since. M1 is slippery stuff and the torque converter clutches are none to large for that kind of use. My transmission guy recommended LubeGuard to prolong the life of the clutchs and I am getting 150,000 plus out of a trans. I tow a boat with the 1 ton but the others have roof racks and ladders plus 750 lbs of tools. 5 vans 3 trans and pushing a million miles on the fleet. It's the only seriou$ problem I've had with the vans. I have heard that throttle position sensor problems take out a number of trans so we have them checked when we do a tune up.
I found the few bucks it cost me for a trans guy to run the diagnosis to be well worth the bucks. I you are near Issaquah I can pm you the name of a shop that has done a good job for me.
I had shudder on 2 of the work vans and one was the clutch packs and one was the torque converter. Big bucks for me. The hard shifting can be caused by the computer going into failsafe mode when it senses a problem such as converter slippage. You said it started after a pull. You can reset the computer by diconnecting the battery for 15mins I think or turning the key off and on 3 times. I did it on one of the vans 6 months ago and no problems since. M1 is slippery stuff and the torque converter clutches are none to large for that kind of use. My transmission guy recommended LubeGuard to prolong the life of the clutchs and I am getting 150,000 plus out of a trans. I tow a boat with the 1 ton but the others have roof racks and ladders plus 750 lbs of tools. 5 vans 3 trans and pushing a million miles on the fleet. It's the only seriou$ problem I've had with the vans. I have heard that throttle position sensor problems take out a number of trans so we have them checked when we do a tune up.
I found the few bucks it cost me for a trans guy to run the diagnosis to be well worth the bucks. I you are near Issaquah I can pm you the name of a shop that has done a good job for me.
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Milquetoast
Uhhh...
- Oct 30, 2001
- 921
- 0
MACE, where are you in the country? If you are near NJ, I could get you a REALLY unusually good deal on a full rebuild if that is what turns out to be the problem. Nothing in it for me, a really great deal though. PM me if interested.
- Thread starter
- #7
I took it to a trans shop that was recommended by my barber (whoo-hoo) and he got the same clutch code I did. He wants $1600 for a new converter and tear down inspection. As a professional shop that may make sense, but I think I'll tackle it myself and save a weeks plus pay.
One interesting thing, my fatherinlaw had identical symptoms and repaired it by pushing a loose connector in place on the harness. I'll do a step-by-step evaluation and see what I find.
Thanks for asking...
One interesting thing, my fatherinlaw had identical symptoms and repaired it by pushing a loose connector in place on the harness. I'll do a step-by-step evaluation and see what I find.
Thanks for asking...
- Thread starter
- #8
Well slap my face.:) I reset the computer and the van is running normally again. Reset is done by pulling out the jumper while the engine-off codes are running.
I'm thinking I might end up putting in a TC before long, but at least I've eliminated the fear of doing a bunch of mechanical work and then still having an ECU problem.
Any experience with shift kits? I am thinking of putting in a TransGo kit when I do the converter. They claim to increase the converter clutch pressure.
Thanks for the tip.
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while we is talkin tranny, my car has a AOD and I dont think its ever even had the fluid changed with 175,000 miles on it. I reckon that could be causing my hard shifting problem and the shudder when you first put it in gear? Maybe I should stop being lazy and change it? NAAAAAAA, its good for another 175,000 :aj: :aj: :aj:
- Thread starter
- #14
No problems prior to changing the fluid and filter and no problem for 200 miles AFTER the change. Problems started after first tow trip after fluid change. I suspect that the Mobil 1 is just slick enough that the marginal original TC clutch started slipping. Does LubeGard have friction modifiers or is it mainly a high temp stabilizer?
I have not yet put a new TC on the rig. All I did was drain the fluid from the TC using the TC drain plug.
As far as reman trannys go, the parts I'd need to do a full on upgrade would run me about $750. That's $900 or so less than rebuild. Back in the day I had a couple of terms of auto trans repair courses at the community college so I'm comfortable with the mechanical end of AT repair. The electronic side is new to me. I bought an excellent pro service manual (complete with updates which are many on this trans) and saving $900 has motivated me quite a bit to educate myself on E4OD in the last couple of weeks.
Isn't transmission repair sort of like DIY suspension revalving? Only the most virile alpha males need apply. ;)
BTW dave186, the local radio auto show guys say that if you have very high miles without service that you should NOT service the autotrans. They say that often the fresh fluid will wash away the gunk that was the only reason your pistons were still sealing and you may not make it out of the parking lot. FWIW. :whiner:
I have not yet put a new TC on the rig. All I did was drain the fluid from the TC using the TC drain plug.
As far as reman trannys go, the parts I'd need to do a full on upgrade would run me about $750. That's $900 or so less than rebuild. Back in the day I had a couple of terms of auto trans repair courses at the community college so I'm comfortable with the mechanical end of AT repair. The electronic side is new to me. I bought an excellent pro service manual (complete with updates which are many on this trans) and saving $900 has motivated me quite a bit to educate myself on E4OD in the last couple of weeks.
Isn't transmission repair sort of like DIY suspension revalving? Only the most virile alpha males need apply. ;)
BTW dave186, the local radio auto show guys say that if you have very high miles without service that you should NOT service the autotrans. They say that often the fresh fluid will wash away the gunk that was the only reason your pistons were still sealing and you may not make it out of the parking lot. FWIW. :whiner:
The most routine issue has been the center support bearing wear which causes low tc clutch pressure. I understand this was updated in later trans. I think it was by 1994. As I recall the lubegard had temp stabilizers and friction modifiers and there are several application specific products
- Thread starter
- #17
http://www.bulkparts.com/MM007.ASP?pageno=387
These guys have an aftermarket updated center support for 100 clams and OEM for 200.
Am I goofing up trying to nurse this thing along? When they fail, do they leave a smoking hole in the ground (expensive hard parts failure) or is it more of a slow lingering death (clutches & etc)?
I hooked up the trailer and towed a bit just to test and got no codes or any other bad symptoms. We are experiencing some job issues at home and are trying to not spend large amounts of cash if we can put them off.
These guys have an aftermarket updated center support for 100 clams and OEM for 200.
Am I goofing up trying to nurse this thing along? When they fail, do they leave a smoking hole in the ground (expensive hard parts failure) or is it more of a slow lingering death (clutches & etc)?
I hooked up the trailer and towed a bit just to test and got no codes or any other bad symptoms. We are experiencing some job issues at home and are trying to not spend large amounts of cash if we can put them off.
I have not had a nuclear meltdown but I have been towed to the shop thrice. two times from the job and one morning it was a no go joe. I tend to nurse em along and when they quit I get them built. On my wife's 94 we had the same symptom 6 months ago at 190,000 and after a reset and dose of lube guard it's holding up OK but I expect trouble any time. I don't know how bad the hard parts could be after 75,000 miles but if half of that was heavy towing it could be pretty worn.
Jeff Allen
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Sep 23, 1999
- 475
- 0
Mace, Keep an eye on the color of the fluid for a while. If it starts to turn dark all of a sudden then drop the pan , cut open the filter and look for chunks of clutch material and metal pieces.
If the codes don't come back and it shifts fine I would wait and see what happens. Might be a good idea to install a trans temp gauge and aftermarket cooler also. Heat is the #1 killer of transmissions.
If the codes don't come back and it shifts fine I would wait and see what happens. Might be a good idea to install a trans temp gauge and aftermarket cooler also. Heat is the #1 killer of transmissions.
- Thread starter
- #20
Well the trans is sitting on the carport floor right now. The codes came back and there was no response to a dose of lube gard.
What a PITA pulling transmissions. The worst part was the freaking torx fasteners on the rear u-joint. I made a trip to the tool store and the one they had wouldn't fit past the drive shaft without about an hour of hacksawing and grinding (on the tool :p ). Then it was 1/3 turn, move the tool, 1/3 turn, repeat forever.....
Anyway, I'm replacing the TC, installing an upgrade kit to the pump, replacing the MLP switch, replacing the solenoid pack, installing a TransGo shift kit and I'll inspect the guts up until I need a special tool. No Mad River, no fun until this is done :whiner: .
Oh yeah, I'm replacing the freaking torx fasteners with socket heads :think: ...
What a PITA pulling transmissions. The worst part was the freaking torx fasteners on the rear u-joint. I made a trip to the tool store and the one they had wouldn't fit past the drive shaft without about an hour of hacksawing and grinding (on the tool :p ). Then it was 1/3 turn, move the tool, 1/3 turn, repeat forever.....
Anyway, I'm replacing the TC, installing an upgrade kit to the pump, replacing the MLP switch, replacing the solenoid pack, installing a TransGo shift kit and I'll inspect the guts up until I need a special tool. No Mad River, no fun until this is done :whiner: .
Oh yeah, I'm replacing the freaking torx fasteners with socket heads :think: ...
- Thread starter
- #21
Well, she's back together and seems to tow fine. This weekend I'm going to Naches with a heavy load for the acid test.
BTW, I'm into it about $600.
BTWII fixing the busted header bolt was way harder than the tranny job.
BTWIII how the :p do you get the #1 spark plug out of this thing? Yikes I need chimp hands.
BTW, I'm into it about $600.
BTWII fixing the busted header bolt was way harder than the tranny job.
BTWIII how the :p do you get the #1 spark plug out of this thing? Yikes I need chimp hands.
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