Fork Rebuild Advice Please?

[mxpaul]

My friend and I are going to do our own fork job this time. I have replaced the oil on my outer chamber many times, but I have always had my "suspension guy" do the complete fork/shock rebuild every 4-6mo. Looking at the manual the job appears to be easy enough to tackle.

My bike is a 2000CR250, my friend's is a 97'CR250. He has new seals for his.

My questions are:
1. Is the "holder" tool listed in the manual necessary? If so I think I can have it made.
2. Will a seal driver be required to replace the seals on the 97', and should I replace mine on the 2000?
3. Are there any other special tools we will need?
4. Are there any things we should be aware of, or possible mistakes to avoid?

Any good advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Jeremy Wilkey]

Hey I'm bring this back up.. There are many strings that relate to this bike.. So MXPaul you can search or count on the good will of others.. I can't bring myself to type an answer..YET.. If I can't plead or guilt someone else to do this I will

I'll check back!

Jer

 

[mxpaul]

I did search but did not find answers to my specific questions.

I'm pretty good at figuring things out on my own, but if I can get some advice from someone with these specific forks I thought it might make the job a little easier.

 

[Jake McKernan]

mxpaul,

The fork holding tool is a necessity for disassembly and reassembly. However, you don't need to spend a ton of $$$ on the tool. I went down to the local hardware store and bought a length of 3/4 schedule 40 PVC pipe and T. Slice into one end of the pipe to create the "ears" that grip into the damper rod. Pop the T on the other end and use some PVC to create a handle. Works great.

To set the fork oil level, stop by the local hobby shop and get a length of 1/8" brass tubing, silicone fuel tubing and a wheel collar. On the way home, hit the feed store and pick up a good size syringe. Hook it all together and voila!

Total cost of materials here.... about $15

Hope this helps!

Jake

 

[cr250john]

Originally posted by mxpaul:

My questions are:
1. Is the "holder" tool listed in the manual necessary? If so I think I can have it made.
Answer: You will need some kind of holder for the rod.

2. Will a seal driver be required to replace the seals on the 97', and should I replace mine on the 2000?
Answer: I would think a seal driver would be required for the 97' as well as your 00'. I have a 00' CR250 and doing the forks this weekend. While you have it apart, why not change the seals "just to be sure". Mine are not leaking and I'm replacing them anyhow.

3. Are there any other special tools we will need?
Answer: There is a special tool used to take off the "large" (52mm?) nut on the top of the fork. I would not use an adjustable or pipe wrench on it as it may bend the lip of the nut. Check this step carefully as you don't want to wreck the nut. I think Motion-Pro and Race-Tech sell the tool. They also sell seal drivers unless you make one from PVC pipe like some people have. Check with your local dealer and see if you can rent or borrow the tools.

4. Are there any things we should be aware of, or possible mistakes to avoid?
Answer: The fork oil of choice on this forum has been Mobil-1 ATF, yep automatic transmission fluid. The Mobil-1 is a synthetic oil.
The 00' CR250 fork oil is filled by "volume" (in cc's or ounces's) not by how high the oil is in the fork. I'm not familiar with the 97' fork filling.

Hope this helps!

------------------
cr250john
Mine '00 CR-250 '95 Yamaha Virago XV-750
Kids '01 CR-80's

 

[mxpaul]

Thanks CR250JOhn, that helps. I do have the big 50mm tool, I got it a while back from Honda for about $30-40 can't remember exactly(outrageous price for a stamped piece of steel).

As far as a rod holder it sounds like the PVC idea would work, thanks Jake.

cr250john, what will you use to clean the parts? Since you are doing your's this weekend I think I'd like to wait until next week and maybe find out from you how things went and maybe you'll have some more insight into the situation then. Thanks again.

 

[Jeremy Wilkey]

Hey guys thank you so much.. I just have issues.. The 97 is virtually the same.. When removing the cap and valve stem make sure you remove your set-crew.. Good Luck!
Jer

 

[mxpaul]

I already have plenty of Honda HP 5wt fork oil, should I go ahead and use it or go out and buy some M1ATF instead?

 

[cr250john]

Originally posted by mxpaul:
... what will you use to clean the parts?...

I was thinking contact cleaner if I found dirt inside the forks. I wonder if anyone uses plain old denatured alcohol (no, not beer) for cleaning?
Remember to wind the compression & rebound clickers OUT before you start working on the forks.
If you already have the Honda fork oil I would not spend more money on the ATF. Do that the next time you change the oil.
Since you have the manual, I don't think you can go wrong in too many places. I'm told the twin chamber Showa forks are one of the easiest to service for the "novice tuners" like us!
Good Luck

------------------
cr250john
Mine '00 CR-250 '95 Yamaha Virago XV-750
Kids '01 CR-80's

 

[JTT]

Sorry guys, but I am confused??

Jer: Quote: "When removing the cap and valve stem make sure you remove your set-crew."
What set screw? We are still talking about CR forks, right?

Jake McKernan: Where do you use this tool? the only damper holder that I was aware of for the CR is the "stopper tool" noted in manual, and it is a simple two prong fork deal?

Sorry, these may seem like dumb questions, but I like to have things clear in my own head...I'm sure it's just that I can't get a mental picture of these items.

JTT

 

[wrench]

mxpaul,
I used Brake Parts Cleaner, I figured if ti was safe for the rubber parts in a brake system, what the heck!

As for the ATF...read my M1 ATF ride report in this forum.

 

[Jeff Howe]

There is no cartridge holding tool for the Twin Chambers like you describe. JTT is right here. Just the stopper. On the 97 there is a set screw in the side of the cap(allen head)that you have to loosen to pull the compression assembly. You will see it, you can't miss it.

They are easy to work on. Remember to back your rebound adjuster all the way out before removing it.

 

[Jeremy Wilkey]

Originally posted by Shocknut:
On the 97 there is a set screw in the side of the cap(allen head)that you have to loosen to pull the compression assembly. You will see it, you can't miss it.

[/B]

For guys like you Shocknut... I won't even tell you how many I have seen forced half way off..

 

[Jeff Howe]

I would believe you, but dang, I have a hard time believing they could miss it. Duh! The first set I ever took apart I saw it right away. Maybe they just don't identify what it is.

 

[JTT]

Thanks Shocknut,

Just one more question...you mentioned to turn the rebound adjuster all the way out. Why is this, and what if you don't?

JTT

 

[Jeff Howe]

It could damage the rebound rod if forced too much. When you tighten the adjuster to the rod, bring the lock nut down to the adjuster. If you remove the locknut so you can pull the cartridge rod out of the cartridge you will always tighten the locknut all the way against the rod when reassembling. Then when you tighten the adjuster you might try to snug the adjuster up to the nut. If your rebound is not backed out you will jam the rod in too far and mushroom it. I always just bring the nut down to the adjuster to make sure. Make sense? I am speaking from experience here. I did this once by not paying attention to what I was doing. It took me so long to fix it I have never forgotten. Probably spent a good 1/2 hour on that rod getting it right again. Never again baby, never again!!

 

[JTT]

Thanks Shocknut!

 

[yo its matt!]

you have to be careful about using brake cleaner as stated by wrench, some such as crc state on the can not safe for rubber parts!these types are just used to clean fluids frome metals and brake linings