Fork Work

[tominator]

I'm doing my forks tomorrow but ... my service manual is back-ordered (still). I got the right springs and the FRP shimmed Gold Valves. I've seen the parts diagram. I'm pretty good with a wrench but I still don't like surprises.

My plan is to:
Drop the oil
loosen top bolt
Remove the fork from t-tree
remove spring
install gold valve
oil it up
install new spring
button up everything
go ride

Am I missing anything?

 

[gwhII]

I'm doing my forks tomorrow but ... my service manual is back-ordered (still). I got the right springs and the FRP shimmed Gold Valves. I've seen the parts diagram. I'm pretty good with a wrench but I still don't like surprises.

My plan is to:
Drop the oil
loosen top bolt
Remove the fork from t-tree
remove spring
install gold valve
oil it up
install new spring
button up everything
go ride

Am I missing anything?

There're a few threads going now and in the past that are similar. Do a search if you want some more reading. I did pretty much what you have above though I pulled the forks first and then disassembled them. You're going to need a cartridge holder to remove/install the valves. You're also going to need to apply a non-permanent thread locking agent to the valve threads (big end) when reassembling into the cartridge. I just used the thread locker included with the valve kit.

If you don't already have them, the torque values are:
40 ft/lbs for the valve.
11 ft/lbs for the piston rod nut.
22 ft/lbs for the fork cap.
14.5 ft/lbs for the upper fork clamp bolts.
18 ft/lbs for the lower fork clamp bolts.
18 ft/lbs for the brake caliper bolts.
65 ft/lbs for the axle.
87 in/lbs for the right axle clamp nuts.

Fork oil, in the manual, 87+-2mm from the top of the fully compressed fork leg though usable range is 85mm-100mm from the top. I'm assuming that FRP sent the gold valves and the shim stacks, valve springs, etc, and you get to install it on the valve bodies. Just follow the instructions and file off the staking, clean thoroughly, apply loctite to the locknut threads, and torque the nut (25 in/lbs from Race Tech), and don't be surprised that it looks totally different than the stock valving. If your gold valves came with the video, it's pretty good about the process.

Good luck!

-Greg

 

[tominator]

Thanks!