I just had my bike proffesionally rebuilt (crank, rod, piston, rings, bearings) Im mixing my gas Premium with a 40:1 ratio w/ Klotz R50 racing oil. I toook my bike to my local track and i started it and immediatley fouled the plug after idling ashort time.(BR9EG) Then all i had to switch o was a BR10EG so i put that in and raced 2 times. Went home cuz it got dark . The next day i started it before i washed it and a little bit after idling it bogged and died. Whats wrong?
Fouling...
- Thread starter 2001Rm125
- Start date
2001Rm125 said:
And? You figure the Suzuki engineers spec'd it just so they could make NGK some extra cash? If you sort out your jetting you should not need to replace the plug often enough for the price to be a factor and you get the piece of mind that you are less likely to frag your engine when the tip of a non spec'd plug breaks off and destroys everything you just paid to rebuild.
madmike could be right. If he is, then you aren't riding as hard as you think that you are (most people think that they are pushing their equipment). In simplified terms, the heat range is the temperature that the plug must reach before it can burn off the deposits from combustion. If you cannot keep the revs up, then the engine will not reach the necessary temp, and a lower number is required, this was the case on my 250 smoker. Factory asked for an 8, but I could only get two rides out of them while a 7 lasted over a year. Realistically evaluate your riding style before deviating from the factory plug. If you want to know what all of those letters mean, check out the NGK website.
BTW, the last time I needed a 10, it was for my son's 65. When ridden correctly 85-125's usually need 9s, and 250s seem to like 8s. This is only a 2-stroke rule of thumb, not a finite answer, riding style (among other things) actually dictate which plug is best for a given machine.
BTW, the last time I needed a 10, it was for my son's 65. When ridden correctly 85-125's usually need 9s, and 250s seem to like 8s. This is only a 2-stroke rule of thumb, not a finite answer, riding style (among other things) actually dictate which plug is best for a given machine.
FruDaddy said:
take what this man said to heart, he knows his stuff :cool:
my race bike runs the br9eg with no problems because its constantly abused and pushed to the limit, my trail 2 stroke 125 needed the br8eg because as he has said, the revs arent being held high enough to keep the necessary temp.
- Nov 25, 1999
- 7,926
- 43
Jetting, jetting, jetting, BTW, did I mention jetting?
Frudaddy makes a valid point about competition 2 stroke engines. They are designed to be rev'd. Some trail riding guys "clean out" the cylinder by getting on the gas hard to "clean out" the cylinder and help resist fouling the plug. But your best bet is to jet the carb for your elevation and temperature range that you ride. You will get more time on your plug than you'll get on your top end if it is jetted properly. My YZ250 plug is near 4 years old. I was fouling a plug in 20 minutes. Once I jetted it properly, using the guide at the top of this forum, I haven't had to change the plug in 4 years.
Check your jetting.
Frudaddy makes a valid point about competition 2 stroke engines. They are designed to be rev'd. Some trail riding guys "clean out" the cylinder by getting on the gas hard to "clean out" the cylinder and help resist fouling the plug. But your best bet is to jet the carb for your elevation and temperature range that you ride. You will get more time on your plug than you'll get on your top end if it is jetted properly. My YZ250 plug is near 4 years old. I was fouling a plug in 20 minutes. Once I jetted it properly, using the guide at the top of this forum, I haven't had to change the plug in 4 years.
Check your jetting.
nikki
Moto Junkie
- Apr 21, 2000
- 5,802
- 1
If you want a quick fix, try a BR8ES. Should be able to pick one up for like $2-3 at an automotive store. But after a ride or two, maybe take a look at it, and make sure it's not white-ish (too lean). If you're running a lot of WFO stuff, an 8 might not be the best, but for MX or trails it might do the trick. I always ran an BR8ES in my 125's, never fouled a plug. But yes, getting your jetting sorted out is the best option.
2001Rm125 said:
The fact that he jetted the bike for a pipe is not relevant unless the two of you ride the bike in exactly the same manner, during the same weather conditions etc etc.
Bottom line you seem reluctant to want to try to solve the problem so the quick fix is throw a new 9 in there if it still fouls then go to an 8. I'd suggest you change them with a decent frequency if you don't plan to run the correct plug as you are running a risk of the groundstrap breaking off (the reason the Suzuki and Kawi engineers spec'd that expensive plug for certain 125's) and fragging the top end.
- Nov 25, 1999
- 7,926
- 43
click here Jetting Thread2001Rm125 said:
This thread is at the top of the 2 stroke forum. The whole process can take several hours but is well worth it. Us the cheaper BR9ES until you have it jetted properly and then put in the BR9EG. Jetting is just slow no difficult. Once you've done it, you'll know your bike very well. Besides purchasing several sizes of pilot and main jets, buy a replacement set of screws for the float bowl. It is possible to damage these during the process of jetting. PS, don't shortcut in the disassembly. Removing everything necessary to gain access to the carb is worth the effort. On final assembly of the chassis parts, use a small dab of blue loctite (not on the carb parts).
