Frame painting...need some help...

[Micahdawg]

I got a 1989 KX250 and someone previously painted the frame a piss yellow/green color. The subframe was smashed, and I have another one on the way (used), but since both are two different colors, and both have scuffed paint....I decided just to repaint both pieces.

the thing is, I paid $400 for this bike and the frame color is the least of it's problems, but I figured what the hell....a rattle can job will look better than it did, even if it is short lived.

So, any ideas on the best way to go for a paint job on the cheap? I stripped the frame and need to wire brush it. I'll also prep with all-sol, but I need some advice on what primer to use and what paint.

I've seen PJ1 KX green spray paints, but hear mixed reviews on the quality and also heard that a lot of their cans are defective?!?! Also, how many cans should it take to cover the frame and subframe with plenty of coats.

Thanks for the advice, and remember, NO POWDERCOATING....this has got to stay on the cheap.

Micah

http://members.tccoa.com/micahdogg/100_3864.jpg

 

[billtx]

I used PJ1 on my frame and it was a mistake. As soon as I hit it with contact cleaner it came right off and what didn't come off was a sticky mess. To be fair, I did not use the clear coat but that was also Lacquer based so I'm not sure it would have mattered. Of course this happened after I put the bike back together.

When I paint it again I'll just buy the Yamaha paint. Maybe you can get some Kawi paint at the dealer.

 

[cactusreid]

Unless you use a catylised (sp) type of paint-two parts that you mix together,just about any solvent will melt spray can paint as its an air dry lacquer/enamel base.here is a thought. why dont you scuff sand and clean your frame and then get a bodyshop painter to squirt it for you.then your only paying for his skill and for good 2 component paint.

 

[Micahdawg]

Thanks for the warning BillTX....I really had a feeling that PJ1 would not be a good way to go.

And Cactusreid....that gives me an idea. I recall visiting a local autobody paint supply store about two years back and they said that they could mix paint and provide it in an spray type container. Surely that would be better paint. And I can take the subframe in to have it matched to. Probably not as cheap as PJ1, but maybe it'll actually hold up.

Micah

 

[cactusreid]

You still won't be getting a 2 part paint in ANY spray can. Unless you catalyse/use a hardener it will soften or waswh off with most solvents. once you catalyse a paint it hardens in about 2-3 hrs.

 

[sunnyboy]

you can go to an auto paint store and get a 2-part paint in any color you want, you will also need a thinner,your local hardware store sells a spray can set up with a screw on jar for the paint so you can spray what ever you want.3 equal parts usually sprays good but you can make it thicker or thinner.i usually spray aircraft type paint like aluma-grip, and use the spray on galvinizer as a primer if aircraft primer is not avalable.spray in a clean open area and avoid inhaling the fumes.i hang mine and let it hang for at least 2days and treat gental a few more.it wears close to powder and the aircraft paint is more durable the first three years as intell that time is more flexable than powder,it is considered to be a protective coating for planes which land on dirt runways and kick up rocks-kinda like your bike,it costs more than auto paint but i thought i should let you know.have fun and take your time it will be worth it

 

[SULLY]

I used PJ1 and it seemed crap. Petrol took it straight off afterwards. Having said that I had not used the PJ1 undercoat (used another brand) so it may have been a reaction thing. I really cannot see PJ1 producing specific frame paint unless it works.
Anyway- the best and cheapest solution I have found it to get the local branch of Halfords (a UK cycle and car accessory dealer) to mix up a tin of Kawasaki green cellulose based paint. They have it in their catalogue, and can supply it in either brush on or spray on format. (Funny thing though- I watched them mix my paint and even though it is the familiar Kawa green, no actual green paint went into the mix- funny grey, brown and yellow mixed up and hey presto Kawa green!)

 

[Micahdawg]

I found a similar color green that is made for engine blocks and other engine components. It did not say "chemical resistant", but I would think if it's going on the friggen engine, surely it will have some kind of protective qualities.

Anyway, I'm just priming and covering with an obsurd amount of coats. Like 20. Then looking for some kind of clear to top it with.

Micah

 

[Bizerk]

I used "Rustolium" primer and top coat paint and there are no issues. Good stuff cheap.

 

[s10crazy]

Hey Micah, Cactus is right, in order to get the quality you're looking for you have to go with a 2 part base with base-coat hardener. You can buy this stuff at a auto supply store and if you have a spray gun it will turn out great. Your best bet for primer is going to be an epoxy primer which will give you not only a mechanical but a chemical adhesion as well. And putting 20 coats on isnt going to help at all its only going to hurt you because the more coats you put on the weaker your base will be. If you're using a base-coat clear-coat product you clear coat is going to be the protective part of your finish so also use a 2 part clear coat with hardener. I dont know about the aircraft paint but if it has a catalyst it may work.

 

[cactusreid]

Let me help clarify this a bit more.Your best/easiest/cheapest way to go is with a 2 part acrylic urethane/hardener combo. this stuff works great for solid/non-metallic colors. metallic colors are hard to spray in a urethane,thats why they are commonly done in a base coat/clear coat system. up here in canada eh. you can buy a pint of urethane and hardener for about 50 bucks. all you need is a spray gun now.also you'll need a bit of urethane grade reducer-about 10% of the volume of paint once you have mixed in the hardener. 2 or 3 coats is plenty/more IS NOT better-it will chip much easier.By the way-I own a bodyshop,and I'm a licienced automotive painter.The single stage 2 part urethane paints will give you a good shine as well. It's probably the same type of paint that the frame had on it from the factory. Good luck on your project!!!!!

 

[Micahdawg]

Thanks for the advice, but in the meantime I painted the frame already.

It's probably gonna suck big time, but I used Engine block spray paint. They said it was gas and oil resistant. I used a Rustolium primer and then about 6 or 7 coates of this engine block paint. It looks good, but the paint is still kind of soft.

Is there anything I can do to get it to harden good? Do I need to bake it? Can I sit down with a heat gun and warm the frame up?

Micah

 

[cactusreid]

Time & sunshine will be your 2 best allies now, try to get lots of both.

 

[Mikecoh]

I have a friend who sprays pickup-truck beds with Rhinoliner.
The stuff is virtually bulletproof. He can spray it on as smooth as a baby's bottom if he wants.

What do you guys think about having him spray my frame with a thin coat after I sandblast and prime it?

 

[Micahdawg]

Sounds like it would be similar to a rubbery powdercoat. If he can make it smooth and look good, go for it. How is his color selection?

Micah

 

[cactusreid]

Mikecoh-you won't get my vote on that one. use either a good 2 part urethane paint or powdercoat it. I think boxliner will make your frame look very "Tacky" Also I would bet that Micadawg will end up sanding his paint job off and starting again,as it may not dry up enough to use for quite a while.

 

[Micahdawg]

Cactus....how long do you think it will need to really set up good? This bike has many problems and I'm still waiting for other engine pieces before I can get the motor squared away. It could be a 2-4 weeks before I even get it to the point where the motor is ready to mount. Do you think this is enough time?

I just keep picking at the paint in unnoticable areas (where swingarm mounts) to see how soft it still is.

Micah

 

[cactusreid]

leave it in the sun as much as you can. it will probably be dry by then. check it a week or 2 before your going to assemble the bike so you still have time to redo it if you have to.