Gearbox Problems 2002 kdx200

rethnal

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Jul 14, 2002
659
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Sure 'nuff! :laugh:
Didn't work well for me as far as shifting... but noise did improve. I don't care what you use, and there is probably nothing wrong with Bel-Ray GS ..... I am just happy with Mobil 1. All I was saying is don't believe everything you hear from manufacturers. Do the research and trial and error. Use what works for you. You can draw opinions on anything... You may be a Ford man.... I'm not. etc....
 

rethnal

~SPONSOR~
Jul 14, 2002
659
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I agree.... I did my research but opinions don't mean much around here without proof and I was not about to redo the research I have done prior. So, I just replied with the questions I found the answers too elsewhere.
 
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john3_16

Member
May 17, 2004
808
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Mobile 15W50 in the red cap is good stuff..The lower weight Mobile synthetic has too much moly in it...

Mobile MX2T is excellent 2 stroke oil for $3.49 at your local Autozone...Burns clean and is a full synthetic...Only thing bad about it is that it doesn't have coloring in it so you have to make sure you put the oil in the gas.
 

matt-itude

Member
Jul 6, 2004
293
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JasonWho is correct on the viscosity to keep it simple lets just say on multiviscosity oils that the lower number represents the thickness or viscosity of the oil cold and the higher number or second number indicates the thickness or viscosity hot and hes also correct that different types of oils are tested at different temps. so if as 80w gear oil is tested at 100 deg. (or is 80w at 100 deg.) it will be thinner say mabey 40w at 200 deg. etc.
 

dsndblm

Member
Jul 12, 2003
167
0
Rethnal:

I get your point. The answer is, it can't. The multi weight oils are engineered to solve just that problem, reduced flow when cold. I think it was JasonWho that gave some stats on the BelRay GearSaver pointing out that the 80W rating from BelRay ws not the same "W" rating as an automotive oil. I'm going to check the past posts and see if I can find the information. It was interesting reading.
 

matt-itude

Member
Jul 6, 2004
293
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I didnt mean to dodge your Q. Im with ya it wont act like 10w when cold period. im no expert on this but im thinking on a tranny its cold temp isnt so critical like in an engine because thicker oil should protect things like gears better. the problem here would be in how a tranny lubes with the oil that thick when cold, will it work its way into the bearings and inbetween the gears and the shaft etc.? the reason i say i dont htink the cold viscosity is so important is in an engine that cold rating is so important because when you start it cold the oil pump needs to push it to the moving parts of the engine quickly before damage happens. the thicker oil would actually be carried around more by the gears when cold. I guess im saying we could take either side of this. I have personally been using silkoleen comp but actually bought a bottle of gearsaver to try because on my last ride it seemed to be a little hard to shift a couple times. I am however one who buys auto oil for the autos and gun oil for the guns and bike oil for the bikes. just my thoughts.
 

Bags

Member
Feb 4, 2003
5
0
kdx gear oils

Try automotive trans fluid. Works great I've got a 2000
KDX 220 Thats ridden at least 3 times a week hard & it
has never given me any problems. The Dexron 2 or type F
fluid is a dolllar + a quart. I can change it 4 times for the price of your mobile. I change it every 20 hours or so. It works in hot or cold weather. I ride in temps below freezing to over 100 degrees. :yeehaw: :ride:
 

rethnal

~SPONSOR~
Jul 14, 2002
659
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"How does" is the key part of the question. I am asking if anyone has any data on the way Gearsaver straight 80W can act like the 10W part of the designated 10-40 recommended by Kawasaki. There has to be a reason they want you to use multi viscosity type oil.
I have heard of others using ATF but that seems way off the beaten path to me. Completely different compounds at work there. I am not opposed to trying it, just not in my bike. :)
 

matt-itude

Member
Jul 6, 2004
293
0
so are we positive it was the gear surface that initiated the problem leading to bearing and shaft damage/failure or did the bearing go out alowing things to move around out of alighnment causing gear and shaft damage?

the thing bothering me is that i feel were trying to blaim the oil or lubrication here but i know way to many people running gear saver with no probs for that to be the problem. i also know how many of us have kdxs without this prob so mabey there was an improperly hardened batch of gears, shafts, bearins or something else. did these two gentlemen buy there two bikes together same year or close serial #s? Im not sold that this is a lubrication problem. and it doesnt sound as if its a maintenance prob.
 
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