There's hertz.......
..and then there's 'not exactly'.
The top bearing is probably ok. The bearings DO take a beating....that's why YOURS is probably no good.
Most likely the bottom bearing, though. It's press-fit on the stem. Getting it off is a bit of a go. A bike shop would press the stem out of the triple clamp enough to get the space you need to get a plate under the bearing to press IT off.
Various methods have been used by DIYSers (that's Do It YourSelf-ers). Some have just pounded the thing off. I used a pneumatic cutoff tool to cut mine off.
Then, after a trip to the freezer for your triple clamp, the new bearing can be easily seated on the stem with a piece of iron pipe (1 1/8" I think it was) and a sledge. Getting the pipe threaded for a cap helps the 'sledging' part.
No beating required! A few taps with a 2 1/2# sledge will work just fine.
Take the bottom race out of the frame using a drift from the top of the tube. Tap it out carefully. Use the OLD race to seat the NEW race (after it's chill time) up inside the tube.
You
do not adjust the 'tightness' of your steering by squeezing it with the top spanner nut. The assembly is adjusted as ANY tapered roller bearing is. If you don't have a manual, or are not familiar with a tapered roller seating process, please ask! There
is a method to it. Don't follow it and the chance of your bottom bearing living to any nice old age is greatly reduced.
There is a chance that a cleaning/regreasing will take care of it. Unlikely. Look at the bottom race. See marks where the rollers have damaged the race? If you do, you're better off replacing the bearing. Heck......you already have it apart.
Price of the bearing? Around $30 as I recall. Cost of the local shop to replace the bottom bearing? $50.
Grease that new bearing well! Use the same grease you use to service your suspension (swingarm/unitrack arm).
??? .........You never what??
uh-oh............ :eek:
Check out CDave's site:
http://justkdx.dirtrider.net
Read the 'new bike prep' section. Do that now.....soonest.