hard to kick start WR360

kc-husky

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#1
I have been riding my 2000 WR360 for a year now. One thing I do not like is having to kick start it. What I am woundering is there a different kick starter arm that I could use on it for more leverage? Or is there some other way to make it easier to start? Thanks in adavance for any help.
 
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#2
You are right, the kickstarter is a little odd. I have grown to like it though. It spins the engine quite fast as compared to a regular long throw kickstarter. I moved mine on the shaft splines so it is farther forward. It rubs the pipe now, but I do not care as I get more throw out of it.

When cold, I start the bike by getting next to a tree and standing on the pegs. I would rather do this than use the kickstand to hold the bike up during starting. When hot it is not a problem as long as I give it a powerful kick it starts right up everytime.

Mine started to stick in the stowed position due to the steel base deforming right by the spring loaded ball bearing. easy to fix with a file or knife.

I milled the cylinder head on mine for more compression and this made it even more difficult.

Chris
 
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weimedog

Damn Yankees
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Nov 21, 2000
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#3
I had a 1998 Husky WR360. I completely rejetted mine and when I was done it started easy. I ended up with:

390 Main
J3 series needle
4.5 slide
55 pilot

I also had the choke circuit opened up by a guy at the local shop.

I am at 5000 ft altitude (Colorado) so you might be 5 to 7 percent larger on the jetting.

The folks at Bill's Cycle Plus in Salem Oregon will seel a Keihen carb set up for those things that's supports to solve many ill's. I didn't need to go that far but I hear from other WR360 folks those Keihens work better.

I also had the stock pipe with a FMF Turbine Core Silencer. Had to have a mounting tab moved on the subframe.

Good luck:)
 
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#4
I have a 98'HuskyWr"250" and even though the compression is less, the same basic problem exists with the kickstarter. It is set up higher and more forward than the typical jap-bikes, but mine regularly starts on the third kick when cold, and first when warm. You didn't mention whether or not your bike started...just that you didn't like the kickstarter.

My last 430 husky(left-hand kickstart)was a beast to start, but once I got used to throwing my 200lb. body three feet in the air and slamming down like I had a couple, it wasn't a problem. Listen, Huskies are not for the faint of heart. I can best describe it by quoting one of my riding buddies who asked to ride my Husky on a particularly nasty trail(All my buds ride jap-bikes)..."Wow, now this is a dirtbike!":)

Aloooha!
TrailTramp
98'Husky
87'Husky
74'Husky
 

kc-husky

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#5
My bike usually starts cold on the second or third kick, and warm the second kick. As ToddHawaii stated (he can start it on the first kick when he puts his all into it) I can also get mine to start on the first kick when I put all 230# on my kick lever also. But I try only to do that on our dead engine starts in the hare scramble series I run in. It takes to much out of me to do it each time. I also have tried to put the kick lever farther forward on the shaft as per Cujets recommendation this did help a little. what about fly wheel weights have any of you seen these for sale or has anyone tried them? Weimedog how far are you from Denver? Will those jet sizes work well in the Denver area? :cool:
 

weimedog

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#6
They worked from 4000 ft to around 8000 ft. I live about an hour north of Denver.:)
 
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#7
I had 96 360wr and found the best way for me to start was to stand on the right side of the bike and kinda lean it over and kick it with my left leg.I'm 5' 10 AND WAS 43 AT THE TIME.This really worked for me.:cool: :cool: