Help! Need advise on bearing installation

[Gerg]

In the rebuild process of my '97 KDX 220, I have all new bearing kits from Pivot Works (swingarm, shock, linkage, wheels, etc.). For the life of me I can't get the new bearings in place. Anyone have good experience & useful tips for getting them all in?

I had no trouble knocking the old ones out, of course, but having never done this before, I'm at a loss for the proper method. Keep in mind, I don't want to take all of the parts to a dealer to have it done.

 

[canyncarvr]

Put the new bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours for starters. That's true for bearings that press-fit on the outer race. For bearings that fit on the INside race (like the steering stem), put the piece in the freezer, not the bearing. My last wheel bearing set measured almost .002" smaller in diameter after a trip to the deep freeze.

If you don't have a press, the wheel bearings can be easily tapped in using a proper sized socket (fits inside the wheel, contacts the outer race) and a heavy hammer..say a 2lb sledge. Inertia is your friend, here. A light 'tap' with a 2lb sledge beats a 'slam' with a 16oz hammer. The latter will still work.

A piece of wood between the socket and hammer will help the socket from being damaged.

Some heat the wheel with a torch. The bearings fit so easily when they're 'frozen', I've not worried about it.


I started my swingarm bearings with a socket/sledge tap. Finished them with a vise. For whatever reason, I had trouble getting a straight start on the swingarm bearings using my vise. After a couple of vise tries, a tap with the 2-pounder started them perfectly.

A bit of never-seize on the press surface isn't a bad idea. Greasing the bearings before you put them in is a good idea.

CBR makes a lifetime guaranteed wheel bearing for the kdx. You might keep that in mind next time.

I'm not talking a pounding going on. Set the (cold) bearing on the piece and a bit of a tap will start it just fine.

The bearings in the unitrack arm go in well using a vise. A vise is good for another reason with these bearings....they have to be placed rather exactly to allow for proper seal fit. The bottom shock mount bearing especially. A 'squeeze' works better for minute movements of the bearing than a 'whack'.

Don't forget to put the wheel spacer back in!! Uh..the time to remember that is not after you put in the second bearing! ;) Not that I'd know anything about that from personal experience. I must've heard about it somewheres.

Of course, back all pieces with something solid and relatively soft..a piece of wood. Don't be pounding with anything against your brake rotor for example.

Good luck!!!

 

[Mac]

I use a PM bearing press(vice) for removal and insertion of bearings. Check out this thread <HERE>

 

[johnkdx220]

Yep, canyncarvr is right, put the bearing in the freezer.

To replace the needle bearings in the dog bone and swingarm, I put the needle bearings in the freezer and heat the swingarm/dog bone a torch. I also put a film of engine oil in the "female" part. Tap tap tap using a ruber mallet and the old bearing to make the initial insert and complete the work using a piece of wood in a vice and voilà! Oh yeah, since you already have the pieces apart, why don't use install greasing zerks? 15 minutes more work if you have the tools.

Good luck

 

[Gerg]

I heard about using the freezer & a torch, I'll have to give that a shot.

Add grease fittings? Well, in this case, would it help? The Pivot Works kits replace the (2) sets of needle bearing (with a gap between them) with (1) longer bearing. It would seem to me that the grease wouldn't distribute very well in there. Aslo, is there any danger of weakening the swingarm by drilling a hole in the thin section where the bearings sit? Wouldn't that be a structural problem? Because there's only 1 bearing, I would have to drill awfully close to the edge, too close for comfort.

 

[canyncarvr]

That's one of the problems with putting the 30mm bearing (vs: two 15s) from PW in the swingarm. The obvious placement for a zerk is inbetween the two oem bearings. With that placement the grease MUST go through the bearings to get 'out'.

With a zerk to one side or the other grease will seek the path of least resistance. That will be the seal, not through the bearing.

 

[johnkdx220]

I posted some pics showing installed zerks. On the swingarm and on the underside of the suspension linkage, I install a pressure plug to avoid damage while riding.

http://groups.msn.com/KDXRidersCommunity/zerkyourkdx.msnw

 

[tedkxkdx]

To get my swingarm bearings in, I used a piece of threaded rod and some nuts and a couple of sockets to act as the vice. Once all is on u just use a wrench and tighten and the bearings go in nice and easy.
Also the pressure of the hit or press should be applied to the flat end of the bearing and not the other side which is rounded looking.

 

[canyncarvr]

Yep. 'Numbers' out. Good point.

 

[Gerg]

Finally broke down and bought a 6" bench-top vise. You know what they say, "the right tools for the job..." Bearings are in the freezer, and tonight I'll start working on getting 'em all in!

Got a new Ceet gripper seat cover on, and the frame's just waiting for all the swingarm & suspension bearings to go in, then I can re-assemble that. Top end is waiting for a couple of parts (exhaust rods are on back-order) and 1 gasket, then it can go back together. Just need a pipe after that (already bought the silencer, an FMF Turbine Core II) and new palstic for the headlight, and it'll be dang near done! I can't wait to get out on it again!