Help needed with 93 CR250 Fork Damper

[doug sa]

I have just attempted to service my first set of forks and have screwed it up.

For some bizzare reason I started disassembling the valve on the end of the damper. :ohmy: (what are all these washers for) I managed to figure out what was going on there by carefully taking the other fork apart. Unfortunately when I was puting it all back together I managed to turn the thread right off the end of the push rod :bang:

How do I get the whole damper apart now? It seems like the outer tube can screw apart but it seems to be "riveted" together somehow, can I just drill these "rivets" out and then take it apart?

Where could I order a new push rod on the net? I live in South Africa and the Local Honda dealers can only order me the whole damper.

 

[JasonWho]

Are you talking about the rebound part? I was going to say to look at the Race Tech video, as he services a set of Honda '93 CR250 forks, but he doesn't do the rebound part.

 

[doug sa]

Hi Jason
I don't think it is the rebound part.(Correction after looking at the the showa fork service instructions on another site I see it is the rebound part. my appologies) It is the shaft in the middle of the fork that has the spring guide over it. I stuffed the other end where the shims are. The problem is the end of the shaft is ionside another tube and I can't get the outer tube off.

I read some other posts and it seems like I need to "Drill" out the pings (previously reffered to as rivets) heat it up and use some force.

 

[Dogger]

I have a similar set of forks and have done that, but with a little better success since I had instructions for it.
To get access to rebound valving You must do this:
- Look at the rebound rod where the lower part is screwed to the upper part. You will see 3 or 4 small stamped recesses in the outer part. These are there to prevent the rod unscrewing by itself (which would cause the lower tubes and front wheel to drop off !).
- Take a drill and drill the stamped holes with a slightly larger drill just to the outer surface of the inner part, not through the whole thing.
- Now take a torch (or heating gun) and carefully warm the outer part. They are glued together so You'll have to warm them quite a lot until the glue melts.
- Now unscrew the parts and there You have it: rebound valving can be easily adjusted.
They "safety" the rebound valve nut at the factory by hitting the end of the bolt so that it spreads so when You unscrewed the bolt, it broke the spreaded head off (and maby fouled the nut). So You'll have to file the rebound valve body thread and maby replace the nut. Use loctite when assembling and don't overtighten.
If You can't use the old pushrod I think You should look at **** for used rod/complete fork.
Good luck!
Dogger