farmerj, you're 100% correct - lowering the rear effectively increases the steering angle --which is what Jaguar has accomplished with the longer pull rods --that method starts you out with your swingarm in a more horozontal position. You also lose at least an inch of suspension travel and all too frequently feel that rear tire gnawing at the underside of your seat. The "wandering" that we experience with the KDX is due to oversteer -- The tire "Bites" and before you can correct, the wheel goes off in whatever direction it wants. By increasing the fork angle, it gives your arms a better leverage ratio by moving the front wheel into a less effective angle with respect to the ground. It's also called "slowing down" the steering. A steering damper accomplishes the same thing by mechanically resisting those side to side swings. Unfortunately by lowering the rear and increasing the effective steering angle, you exaggerate another even worse trait of the KDXs --understeer or washout.[which is what really irks me about my KDX] You'll be going around a fast corner in 5th or 6th and suddenly the front end goes away--not a confidence builder !! So how can a bike exhibit BOTH understeer and oversteer ?? Maybe we can get Jeremy of MX Tech to explain that one. [IMO, the understeer is due to improper internal valving --especially too soft rebound damping. Has anyone out there installed the adjustable rebounders and with what results?]
high speed handling
- Thread starter bsp83
- Start date
jaguar
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I just move my weight forward on flat turns when I turn to make it bite better.
The rebound damping is adjustable by changing the fork fluid. Heavier oil gives more damping. Freddette recommends 5 and 10 weight mixed 50/50 which is what I have and I haven't experienced understeer (washing out) but I don't do 5th or 6th gear turns (would that be hare scrambles? awfully fast for a turn).
The rebound damping is adjustable by changing the fork fluid. Heavier oil gives more damping. Freddette recommends 5 and 10 weight mixed 50/50 which is what I have and I haven't experienced understeer (washing out) but I don't do 5th or 6th gear turns (would that be hare scrambles? awfully fast for a turn).
I just have to agree. I have a KTM 125SX 2001 and a KDX 200 2002. I've done some real work on my KDX and I have to say the bike is great at any speed. The front forks have to be worked on. The rear is good except the spring might be a bit on the stiff side. Nothing that can't be fixed. People who blame the KDX on high speeds may need more time on the saddle!
jaguar
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All of you who are saying it handles good at high speed:
Have you gone over nasty bumps at speed? straight/turning/landing?
Only if you have then please report your experience.
I think this is one of those topics that only the advanced riders can correctly report on. Rookies can't tell the difference between a good and bad handling bike. Nor do they ever get up a good speed on a bumpy motocross course. So how can they contribute cleanly to this topic? Answer: they can't
I would ask to only hear from KDX owners who are more advanced than novice MXers. All you boondockers who don't MX, take a seat and open your ears and maybe you'll learn something.
Have you gone over nasty bumps at speed? straight/turning/landing?
Only if you have then please report your experience.
I think this is one of those topics that only the advanced riders can correctly report on. Rookies can't tell the difference between a good and bad handling bike. Nor do they ever get up a good speed on a bumpy motocross course. So how can they contribute cleanly to this topic? Answer: they can't
I would ask to only hear from KDX owners who are more advanced than novice MXers. All you boondockers who don't MX, take a seat and open your ears and maybe you'll learn something.
