are definitely more trouble than they worth!!! I bought some stock type replacement bars. They suck too!! Doing it over, spend the money on some good bars of your choice and a 1 piece top. Don't forget to include some good barkbuster type handgaurds.
You can remove the plugs by sawing the very end of the bars off. You will find that after removing the plugs the vibrations will be unacceptable. I agree with the previous post, purchase some new double wall bars.
I posted this before. The clutch side is glued in. heat it with a propane torch and it will fall out. The throttle side is spot welded, cut 1/4 inch off with a hacksaw and its gone. Stuff some paper towels in the end of the bar till the bend and then melt in 8 onces of lead on each side. This adds a pound of weight to your bike but eliminates vibration, even better than aluminum bars imo.
I cut the top brake hose allignment tab on the master cylinder to angle the line away from bark buster inner mount. Loosen the hose bolt just enough to move it. You'll probably lose some brake fluid but probably won't need to bleed it, I didn't anyway.
Both sides of my stockers were welded. I tried cutting but it broke my blade. I went to my dealer and got some brand new Renthals and soon realized that is what I should have done from the start. And they are prettier also. That's the important part.
Tag makes a real nice bar that mounts in the stock clamps, Tag X5. Dennis Kirk sells them for $75.99. I ordered my first pair in the mini bend, but they were uncomfortable so I went with the cr hi bend. The old bars aren't worth the effort in my opinion, the will most likely bend on your first spill.
Lew
I just put on DeMarani bars today, dealer said they were one of the strongest single wall bars you could buy. They are black so they look cool. I needed them because i bent my stock bars. I just ordered an alunimum twist throttle, black bark busters, black MSR raptor levers and pro grip gel grips. The new bars were a lot easier to put on than cutting the bar ends off thats for sure.
Thanks for the info! I went and picked up some Renthals, much easier project for the tools I have available. The hardest part was mounting the Acerbis Rally Pros. I had to cut the upper circular brake line guide mount a bit and they finally squeezed in.
Thanks again for the info!!
If you don't want to cut your bars, take a small drill bit and drill into the spot welds that are holding the plugs in. Then take a hammer and a 3/8" ratchet extension and drive them into the bars (towards the cross brace). This worked for me so I could install Moose handguards. It will take about 15 min.
Shell out some cash and buy some good strong new bars. I bought a set of Answer aluminum bars from Fredette (he uses them) and they took a licken' and stayed straight. You will be extremely upset if you spend the time like I did to remove the damn end pieces (sawing off bar ends and drilling the rest out) so you can fit knuckle savers (used Fredette's) and on your next outing fall and bend the POS stock bars and have to urgently locate the new bars you want, order them, wait for delivery and then do the installation.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
