How do I fix headshake on my 2003 CR250?

[JD-250]

When I'm on the gas in 4th gear over relatively flat ground but a little rough, my handlebars start jumping side to side and I really have to concentrate on holding the bars straight or it's going to pitch me off the bike! I have my sag set at 4in, I played with the clickers a few clicks on either direction with the same result. What can I do to fix this or at least calm it down a bit?

My suspension works great at the local MX track with no signs of headshake but that is probably because I rarely get out of 3rd gear. Any tips would be greatly appreaciated.

Jamie

 

[darringer]

Try sliding your forks down in the triple clamps 2-3mm. This will help with the headshaking, but will sacrifice turning ability slightly. Possibly an easy, no-cost solution. If it doesn't work, it's easy to return to where it was before.

 

[pontiac]

Also check to make sure your wheels are true, round and not terribly unbalanced.

 

[mikecaldera]

add oil

add 5 cc in the air screw.....your seals are going or your using 5 weight oil for a 200 pound body.

5 weight is for horse jockeys, try 7.5 to 10.

I had the same problem at high speeds.

FIXED.


adding more oil is __ rigging but it works. changing is best.

 

[Ol'89r]

What can I do to fix this or at least calm it down a bit?
Jamie

Scotts steering damper.
www.scottsperformance.com :cool:

 

[pace]

You could also try softening your (HS) compression damping and possibly increasing your rebound damping. The front end can get lively like that when it deflects over square edges instead of absorbing them.

-Pace

 

[Speeed]

Unpleasantries?
Headshake:
Adjust the forks lower in the triple clamps.
Excessive rear end kick:
Check for packing, which is identified by kick to side in hard to loam conditions. If you observe packing, soften rebound. (Turn clicker out.) This cannot be avoided if you brake improperly and lock the rear wheel up and/or pull in the clutch, on the entrance to corners.
Keep a record of the different settings if you race different tracks. That way you can start at a point that worked well the previous times.

SOURCE: www.mx-tech.com

 

[mikecaldera]

rebound only tighten up a few clicks

You could also try softening your (HS) compression damping and possibly increasing your rebound damping. The front end can get lively like that when it deflects over square edges instead of absorbing them.

-Pace

Leave the compression alone or else pay the piper.

If you tighten up your tops ( rebound) you should in theory slow down the jack hammer effect at higher speeds.

Again.... You should be "perfect" in the middle of compression and rebound and NOT all the way tight or soft on any end, unless you ride very slow and are blind.

My Dear watson, It's the Oil...It's the oil but you can sure try to save on time if righty tighty works on your rebound.

If it were me and I had headshake BAD, Go all the way TIGHT on the tops. and try again. If you have ANY HEADSHAKE redo your OIL level. Yeah Yeah the forks dropped in the TC really dont have that much of that effect unless your at BAHA at 90 mph.

In short, Rebuld your shock CORRECTLY and you will have a much better ride! Its really easy too. If you want Mikecaldera@optonline.net and I'll send you how to rebuild your forks for free to your email.

Good luck again

Mike

 

[dirt bike dave]

You may wish to experiment with a little more rear sag. I run 105mm on my '99 CR. No headshake, but I also have a Scotts damper.

 

[Jaybird]

...Yeah Yeah the forks dropped in the TC really dont have that much of that effect unless your at BAHA at 90 mph.

:think:
I would disagree with that statement.

Try lowering the forks in the triple clamps before doing ANYTHING else.

 

[darringer]

Originally Posted by mikecaldera
...Yeah Yeah the forks dropped in the TC really dont have that much of that effect unless your at BAHA at 90 mph.


Dropping the forks in the triple clamps can have a dramatic effect on handling. i use it as a tuning tool all the time. Sometimes even with your suspension dialed in, you can alter the bikes turning ability for tighter situations with this method. That way the settings don't have to be touched.

 

[JD-250]

Thanks for all the tips, I will try lowering the forks in the clamp but I really don't want to make the bike harder to corner. I already have a problem keeping my speed up in the corners. Maybe I won't even notice it.

JD

 

[mikecaldera]

Proper Maintance is Primary...all other secondary fixs.

Yeap,

Most of you guys agree to drop the forks like an Orange county CHOPPER. Of course I would drop the forks 10mm but where there's smoke there's fire.

You can try that. 10:1 odds that it won't fix your headshake on a bike with leaking seals. I'm going out on a limb here assuming all you MXer change your fork oil regularly? If you only knew...Some Mxers love sludgesicles.

Like in jetting you must have the basic: a Fresh TOP END.

Now let's apply that same theory to your forks: A fresh OIL change and new seals.

In short, if your seals were new and your Oil did not leak out over time then every :joke: one posting is correct. Based on what I have read your riding with low oil in your forks and going lower.

Pretty soon we might have ChopperCross.

After you lower your forks and if you still have headshake (washout coming also) try changing your oil. Really there's no escaping it. It's not hard.

Good luck to all.

Mike