odiesox

Member
Feb 11, 2005
6
0
I just upgraded to a 1999 (or 2000, not sure) Husky WR 360. Bought it from a buddy when he went to a 04 TC450. I have ridden the bike a few times the last few years, and love the power, can't believe the suspension, etc... My questions are as follows:
1. Does anybody sell a graphics kit for this bike? The first owner loved super tight woods riding, and put a ton of hours on the bike, so most of the graphics and stickers are torn, or worn. I just want to make the bike look a little better.
2: Carb Jetting, I ride from 1,000 to about 2500 ft. Does anyone with this bike ride in similar altitudes, and if so, how are you jetted? Trying to make it a bit easier to start when hot. I can get it first kick cold, but hot is another story (could be my outta shape butt)
3: I have a FMF pipe for the bike not installed, kinda scares me, is it gonna make the top end hit too much? I went to the husky from a yamaha yz250 mainly because the husky makes more power down low, without the hard hit coming on the pipe.
Thanks for any help,
Darin
 

OldTimer

Member
Feb 3, 2005
475
0
My Husky dealer (who stocks the FMF pipe) to me "DO NOT put this pipe on your bike".
They said it'll make it jerk you outta the saddle and stomp you in the mud.
They told me a guy who'd been riding his daily forever, put one on his, and landed in the hospital for 3 mos. while he was laid up, his buddy tried it out and broke both collar bones!
Maybe you can tame the savage beast, But I decided to stay stock!
BTW I believe FMF makes a "FATTY" for increased topend and "Gnarly" for more lowend(don't know where you'd put more lowend on this bike). I wonder which one "Clem and Dayrl" were using?
 

COLEMANAPP

~SPONSOR~
Feb 19, 2002
304
0
I had the FMF fatty on my 93 360 and liked it. It's quite a bit lighter than the stock pipe which was a twinwall on the 93, not sure about your year. I did have to shave a little off the inner part of the kickstarter so it wouldn't constantly hit the pipe. I also added an FMF turbine core II arrestor. Woke the top end up quite a bit but no noticeable hit and still great low end. That being said, I have an '02 360 w/stock pipe and may just keep it on. My 93 was more of a handful than the '02. On the FMF site they don't show the Fatty for the '02, only the Gnarly. I thought the Fatty was a better match for a bike with that much low end already. Let us know what FMF pipe you have.
Bob
 

cujet

Member
Aug 13, 2000
826
5
The powervalves stay closed 'tilll about 6000RPM. That means the pipe has little affect in that range. The FMF pipe works well and makes as much low end as the stocker. I ride a modified 360 with good results. It runs like a tractor with the FMF pipe, a tractor with overrev.

I found the bike runs well with a Kehin PWK carb. The stocker was difficult to get right.

There is a compression release head available in Australia. It is supposed to make the bike as easy to start as a 125.

Chris
 

Dave.Smith

Member
Dec 15, 2002
144
0
My friend has an '00 - it's a hoot to ride.
Check out Trailrider magazine online. They tested one a while back and listed the jetting that Husky set-up for the test. The needle is an OEM item from an earlier 250 IIRC.
I've seen plastics and graphics online from time to time - an online search will turn something up. I think the UFO makes the plastics for Husky. These folks make aftermarket graphics http://graphicmx.com/hushroud.shtml.
If you need parts give Hall's Husqvarna in Springfield, IL a call.
 

odiesox

Member
Feb 11, 2005
6
0
Rode this weekend, about a 20 mile loop, found a gnarly hill, about a mile long climb, all loose baseball sized rocks, a few almost vertical sections, twisting all the way up. got a bad line the first try, looped out about 100 feet from the top. had to go back to the bottom, made the climb in 2nd gear. It's really unbelievable how you can lug this engine. My 85 YZ250 would have either bucked me off, or lugged to dying in 1st. I've figured out starting hot. Bump it just past TDC, get forward on the bike, kick BACK, not down, never took more than 2 kicks after I figured it out. Also being able to put left foot on a large stump or rock really helped get more leverage. Thanks for the input on the pipe, I am going to try it out next weekend using the stock silencer. I hope to have a full report on how it works. As an after note, My buddy with the new Husky TC450 couldn't keep up on the fire roads, the gearbox is too narrow, I'd lose hin as I shifted into 5th, but other than that, he said it rode just like the 360 but with a bit more power.
Thanks for all the input
 

pcahbrown

Member
Nov 22, 2003
29
0
graphics

If you go to the english E-Bay site and type in Husqvarna you should find a few people selling graphic kits manly the ceet ones.
the Fatty pipe is a good allround pipe but it is very bulky and easily danaged. also as far as i know there are no one making pipe guard for the fatty. I had a fatty on my first 360 and dented it deyonded repairable after a 3 hour race in rocky mountain tracks
Paul.
 

jreid

Member
Mar 10, 2005
5
0
??? just wondering if anyone knows where a guy can get a good price on a cylinder for a 98' wr 360 as pipes go, i have a gnarly on my bike and i love it. the power is unreal i need some new plastic too. where do i go. Thanks jreid
 

jreid

Member
Mar 10, 2005
5
0
jreid said:
??? just wondering if anyone knows where a guy can get a good price on a piston for a 98' wr 360 as pipes go, i have a gnarly on my bike and i love it. the power is unreal i need some new plastic too. where do i go. Thanks jreid
 

stumppuller

Member
Apr 1, 2005
2
0
Fmf On A Husky 360

I have a 1999 Husky wr 360. It is pretty tricked out, an all out racing bike. I have a FMF Gold pipe with power core silencer. So sweet. THe bike should never be too snappy because of the weighted flywheel. If you feel it being too snappy, add a little more weight to flywheel. One thing about this bike...people are used to being able to run a 250 wide open from time to time...that habit will get you hurt on this bike. You do not run this bike wide open...ever. You will rarely be in a situation where you can actually run it like that. It is completely impossible in the woods. You will kill yourself. If you happen to be in open class desert type racing and have rather large testicles, you can crank it there, but be prepared to run nearly 90 m.p.h., with a 15/48 and the six speed tranny. This is a monster, but in time, you figure out how to "RIDE THE DRAGON", then....its sooo sweet. Am actually tracking a problem myself with poor ignition fire at low rpm, I think it is the coil or dirty magneto, in the shop as we speak. First time in a year.....probably the finest woods bike ever built, if you are serious rider and figure out how to handle it.
 

OldTimer

Member
Feb 3, 2005
475
0
I'm finally gonna get my '96 360 out Sunday. There's a hare scramble down the road a piece and my sons are going to ride in the peewee division. I've only put an hour on my bike since I bought it last January so there's no way I'm jumping head first into a competition. But, I figure 'riding support' for the boys and maybe sneakin' around the course a time or two during practice will give me a chance to familiarize myself with the bike a little better. I'm stoked!
So far though, the primary drive gear ratio seems really close. Like all six gears in ten seconds! At first I thought it was the final drive and I traded the 13 tooth counter for a 15. Now it's a tad bit taller in first than I'd like but once you get going, it still runs through the gears really quick. Is this normal? I'm really not sure if I've got a WXC or a WR, or whether that makes a difference. Maybe the previous owner tinkered with the ratios?
 

OldTimer

Member
Feb 3, 2005
475
0
Okay, never mind about the gear ratios. I got in some fair ridding time today and the bike is just plain strong! I think I was going through the gears so fast because it accelerates like you're going down a mountain! You can't lug the thing either, I swear you could just about go from a dead stop in fourth gear and it would still take off like a bull out of a chute! Whew, nice and scary.
It makes me want my mommy!
 

jreid

Member
Mar 10, 2005
5
0
hi there 360 lovers, i am in need of a white rear fender for 1998 wr 360. if someone knows or has one i would love to know about it. thank you and happy riding.
 

OldTimer

Member
Feb 3, 2005
475
0
What about this clutch?

While following my tykes, I spend a lot of time sitting there in first gear with my clutch pulled in while jr. figures out how to navigate the stick that's come to rest in the trail in front of him. It took me several stops to realize that the courious burning smell I was picking up on was my clutch plates!
Of course, I ran home and drained the Valvoline full Synthetic 20w50 and replaced it with same. Which I intend to do after each successive ride until it comes back clear.(I don't think any serious damage was done).
the thing is... I have a terrible time riding with much less than half a lever's play. That's always been plenty of clutch on all my bikes past and I would think for a reknown woods bike, the Husky's clutch would be no exception.
My question is whether these bikes are known to have a long clutch throw or do I need to take a closer look at why mine's having trouble fully disengaging?
I suspect that putting the synthetic oil in after the previous owner's Honda 80w85 my have caused a stickey situation because the 'emergency oil change' seems to have helped quite a bit.
 

COLEMANAPP

~SPONSOR~
Feb 19, 2002
304
0
I was getting some clutch play like you described and the pull was pretty hard to boot. Then my clutch cable broke. The new cable took care of both issues. I never did get the smell of burning clutch plates though.
 

OldTimer

Member
Feb 3, 2005
475
0
COLEMANAPP said:
I was getting some clutch play like you described and the pull was pretty hard to boot. Then my clutch cable broke. The new cable took care of both issues. I never did get the smell of burning clutch plates though.
Well no, what I meant was that I like to ride with quite a bit of slack in the clutch lever. I mean it just doesn't feel right to me to have the clutch lever 3/4 (or more) of the way out before it starts to grab, however if I don't, the clutch apparently drags just a tad while I'm sitting in one place for a bit. This also makes it difficult to push backward or find neutral and I'm sure I'd never be able to start it in gear.
I guess maybe like you said, a 'stretchy' cable could be the culprit. Just seems to me like most bikes go from fully engaged to fully disengaged in about 1/4 of the full length of the lever motion and I question whether is normal for this bike.
One of the pitfalls of buying an older used bike is not knowing its original characteristics.
 

Norman Foley

Member
Nov 14, 2001
75
0
I'm about to join the 360 club. A very clean 93 WXC360.The bike was owned by a guy who just kept it for spare parts for his '96 360 hill climber and only rode it around the yard with his son on his Husky 50. I got to take it for a short ride today and the bike runs awesome. It started easier than I thought it would(I used a sort of 4 stroke drill that Trail Rider mentioned and was posted here) and the clutch pull is kind of wonky, but engages well. Plenty of power and easy to get front end light. I know it won't turn like my newer Husky, but I think it'll work. The classic white with the understated graphics are a work of art. I'm going to get a spare set of plastic(dealer said it's still all availible from Husky). Thanks again to Colemanapp for all the great advice.
Norman
 

cujet

Member
Aug 13, 2000
826
5
Ya know, about that clutch,,,, I just remembered that I replaced the clutch lever on mine with one that has a larger pivot to cable end distance. This gives more cable pull per inch of lever movement. It really is needed on this bike. I just took my old lever to the local shop and found an ARC type lever with a more favorable ratio and adapted it to fit. I have never looked back.

Also, I believe the clutch plates and basket are standard '90s CR250 Honda parts. So if better parts are needed, a set of aftermarket CR2fidddy discs may work.

Chris
 

OldTimer

Member
Feb 3, 2005
475
0
Thanks cujet,
I'm gonna have to do something soon. Today, with my clutch slack adjusted all the way out to 'a nickel's width' and a nice hot motor, I couldn't even roll her dead in first gear. For now though, I'm gonna ride! I'll just get into neutral or kill it if I have to do much sitting. I figure a stickey clutch is tons better than a slippey one. (did I already say that or was I just thinkin' it?) Humpf, shoulda worn a helmet in those early years.
 

cujet

Member
Aug 13, 2000
826
5
I really did make the clutch cable pull more. My clutch works like any normal bike would, even when hot. Also the pull feel has not really changed, I know it must be stiffer, but I cannot tell. I also make sure the cable is well lubed, as this is a big problem on the Husky's. I lube the cable before every ride.

Chris
 

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