tm-enduro

Member
Mar 7, 2001
254
0
I'm looking for input on the Husky WR250, preferably late model (2000 or 2001). What modifications have you done (porting, suspension, etc.) and what is skill/racer level (the mods done by a beginner trail rider and a "AA" enduro rider often vary). I've noticed that the detailing on the Husky's is second to none (beautiful and well thought out). I have an excellent local Husky dealer and have decided to research this option.
 

KDXfile

~SPONSOR~
Dec 6, 1999
366
0
I rode a 00' WR250 all last year racing enduros and harescrambles (B rider). It's one of the best made and toughest bikes out there. Best contingency plan going. Parts were fairly easy to get and not expensive. Great shifting tranny. No engine mods were done other than an 8 oz. flywheel weight. It had plenty of power.
The suspension on the 00' models was in need of re-valving as it was too harse in the rocks and roots but it worked well on sand whoops.
If you ride in the tight woods I would try to get the 01' model; they claim to have changed the geometry for better turning.
 

bud

Member
Jun 29, 1999
433
0
Agree with all that. The suspension isn't bad, but it is the weakest link imo. It's the first, and maybe only thing I'd have modified. I have ridden a 2001 model wr250, and it felt (power, suspension) very much the same as mine. Except with the stock bars and footpeg height, it felt quite cramped to me, and I didn't notice the steering improvements.

Power mods:
Fmf pipe - much more sturdy than stock, otherwise a waste of money
Boyessen reeds - slightly smoother power and easier jetting

All in all, I'm pretty happy with it. The ktm 2 strokes I've ridden show me I'm not missing much :).
 

GlennP

Member
Jun 6, 2000
311
0
They are very well detailed (probably the best) and a great value. I almost bought one last year. I bought the GG primarily for the ergonomics. The only things that need attention(from dealer/A rider) are the pipe, gearing (too high stock), and suspension valving. I don't know what price you can get, but here they are cheaper than a KTM and much cheaper than a GasGas. Too bad they don't have a hydraulic clutch. I can't wait to see the 250 four stroke.
 

KLX300Greg

Member
Nov 17, 1999
22
0
I have a '00 WR 250 and have about 2 good rides on it. It was leftover from 2000 when the '01's came in so I've had it since it was new.

For me, this bike was a great transition/upgrade. I am a novice rider, 35 yrs old, 185lbs, coming from a KLX 300 and KDX 220. The stock suspension seemed great but, the more used to the bike I get, the more I feel like it might need some tweeking. The jury is still out on that, I will continue to adjust the clickers to see if I can keep the back end from dancing on the rocks.

Power-wise, it's a great set up. Not a huge bottom hit, which is good for our trails in the midwest. The middle comes on strong and hangs on longer than I can.

Overall, I have had a blast on the bike and am glad I made the change.
 

Layton

~SPONSOR~
Aug 2, 2000
898
0
My stepson is a ""AA" rider and rode a 2000 250 last year. He liked the bike but felt that the suspension was to harsh. This year he has another new 250 Husky and likes the bike but feels the suspension is to soft which means that the suspension is probably about right for most riders.

I think Husky is back on track for off-road racing.
 

tm-enduro

Member
Mar 7, 2001
254
0
Thanks for the input all.
I've ridden a late model WR125 and WR250 in recent weeks and have been impressed, but power was down and suspension was "off" compared to my TM. I've been in contact with my local dealer and Fast By Ferraci (Husky USA) about setting the bike up for an A / AA rider. FBF said all they do to their race bikes is revalve the suspension, port the cyllinder, and add a V-Force reed. Husky's are cheaper (price) than the others, especially with my discount (long time racer). The suspension can usually be fixed with revalving (or internal replacement). I could probably put Ohlins on the bike front and rear for close to the price of a GG SE model.
KDXfile
What brand of flywheel weight did you use?
 

SPD

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Feb 20, 2001
591
0
I have a 99 WR 250. FMF fatty pipe,pc2 sil, boysen power reeds. I've found the harder you ride the bike the better it preforms. The gearig was a little to high for my riding and the jetting is way too rich. I don't race just play ride. In the 2 1/2 years I've had a brake hose rub a hole in it and one clutch cable go bad.
 

KDXfile

~SPONSOR~
Dec 6, 1999
366
0
TM,
I sent my flywheel off to A-loop for the mod.
Also, I forgot to mention that I installed a Dyno-port pipe after smashing the stocker. It seemed to add some low-mid power and is much thicker steel.
 

tm-enduro

Member
Mar 7, 2001
254
0
Bud
The pics link make me want to go riding now, good job of capturing the mood. Are the ergos that different? I did note that even the 2000 was cramped for me (6'1"), but that can be changed.
 

lawman

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Sep 20, 1999
764
0
i put in a few laps 1 day on a hs track on a 2000 wr360 & a 2001 wr360, both set up by our local dealer. he's a long-time AA husky racer. i was impressed; they felt like the world's torquiest 250s. the '00 handled pretty quickly, the '01 was noticeably even sharper. both handled sharper than my '00 ktm (before the aftermarket triple clamp). the pegs seemed a little hi, the bars a little low, but that's nothing to fix. 1 of the few things i didn't like had to do with the radiator shrouds, of all things; i grip a bike really tightly with my legs & knees, & the funky split design of the husky's radiator shrouds really irritated my legs. leeinmemphis bought the '01, maybe you can get his attention & see what he thinks of it.
 

bud

Member
Jun 29, 1999
433
0
TM, I think the ergos on the 00 and 01 are pretty similar in stock form, but I have had the footpegs on my bike moved down and back (put the spring on the top) and I also have button bend renthal bars which are pretty high. My bike makes every other bike I have been on feel cramped :).
 

bud

Member
Jun 29, 1999
433
0
tm, I did it by hacksawing off the ... I guess it could be called a flange that's between the pin and the spring, and welding back on the opposite side, so that the spring is on the top. It's not a big move, maybe only 15mm, but quite noticable. The only downside is that I occasionally get a boot knocked off the pegs by a rut in a corner or on a steep sidehill.
 

Welcome to DRN

No trolls, no cliques, no spam & newb friendly. Do it.

Top Bottom