Jumping question (not the same old stuff)
- Thread starter maxkiks77
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crazy4nitro
Member
- Aug 31, 2005
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I leave the face under power or neutral throttle,depending on what the situation demands. I just try to avoid the the spike where the powerband just begins.I'm either in the meat heading towards over-rev or neutral throttle. It seems if I let off the bike wants to nose over due to the weight shift/lack of drive at the wheel,which can be taken care of by a quick "blip" of the throttle.
hope this helps.
Crazy
hope this helps.
Crazy
- Aug 3, 2004
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If I'm going too fast to clear the jump, I'll close the throttle completely.
If I just fast enough, I try to hold the throttle at the same RPM.
If I need more speed, or need to seat bounce the jump, or If it's a kicker, WFO the whole time.
I guess I should really say, It depends. I prefer going off a jump WFO, the bike is more predictable when I do that because I'm always on the pipe, so the thrust is the same. What gets freaky is when you need to shift on the face because you need a little more speed and your bike won't rev out any more in that gear.
If I just fast enough, I try to hold the throttle at the same RPM.
If I need more speed, or need to seat bounce the jump, or If it's a kicker, WFO the whole time.
I guess I should really say, It depends. I prefer going off a jump WFO, the bike is more predictable when I do that because I'm always on the pipe, so the thrust is the same. What gets freaky is when you need to shift on the face because you need a little more speed and your bike won't rev out any more in that gear.
Most generally , once you have had a chance to gage your speed for the jump . It's best to maintain that speed through out the face of the jump ..Letting off at the last second will send you over the bars and getting a hand full of throttle at the last second will loop you out .. And shifting on the face of a jump opens up the opportunity for hitting a false nuetral , in my experience , sent me over the bars before I knew what was happening .( hard on the wrists ). Seat bouncing is a whole different animal ..IMO.....
I generally jump the best by blipping the throttle just as I take off. It helps me to gain a bit more loft and keep the front end up. That being said, I do consider other peoples advice and many do say to keep a steady throttle. I am trying to learn that style as well. I think my problem with steady throttle might be not enough throttle giving a low front end where as when I blip the throttle it's easier for me to get the front end in the sweet spot.
I don't mean to hijack the thread but...c&b745XX said:
Just how do you guage your speed for the jump?
Seems like my biggest jumping holdup is not being able to determine how fast I need to be going for that first time over.
Do you just close your eyes and haul buns or what? Even then, if it's a possible triple, you're gonna face plant the third one! :ohmy:
Know what I mean?
- Aug 3, 2004
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OldTimer said:
Experience. With time, you'll be able to roll over the face and pretty much know how much you're going to need to go that far.
OldTimer said:
I don't think that feeling will ever go away, it still hasn't for me.
OldTimer said:
Most of the time, it hasn't failed me yet...
OldTimer said:
Yep, even happens to the pros sometimes.
I'm pretty decent at guessing the speed needed for a jump, but if I'm at a new track I like to follow someone that has ridden there before and pace myself with them. I sometimes have a bad habit of overjumping, so that helps me find the sweet speed.
As for what throttle position to leave the ground, I usually stay steady on the gas, maybe roll on a little up the face. If it's a small jump with tons of run up I might brake up the face and brap it at the top. If it's a big jump with no run up I'll leave it wide open.
As for what throttle position to leave the ground, I usually stay steady on the gas, maybe roll on a little up the face. If it's a small jump with tons of run up I might brake up the face and brap it at the top. If it's a big jump with no run up I'll leave it wide open.
- Thread starter
- #11
It seems that when I do steady I still let off a little before the face. How do i avoid this???? Thank you all for the quick responses on this website. It has gotten much better since i signed up in 02'. I really think that the people on this site are great!
rmxtwofitty
Member
- May 26, 2004
- 26
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Letting off of the gas before a jump was my BIGGEST problem when I first started out. Some of my home videos of my freinds and I jumping are just embarrassing. Letting off always caused me to endo and do something retarded. What I have learned is that it is easier to always be accelerating the whole time, than holding your throttle steady. Lately I have been starting closer to the jump and accelerated all the way to the jump and then slowly roll on the throttle all the way off. By keeping this rythem I always have the same body position off the jump. Rolling on the throttle is key, it gives you more lift off the jump. Hope this helps, worked for me! :cool:
High Lord Gomer
Poked with Sticks
- Sep 26, 1999
- 11,790
- 34
That will come with practice. As you go up the jump face, the natural tendency is to get farther forward on thebike as the front end comes up.maxkiks77 said:
Pred helped me with the following pictures:
| <- that is you
-- <- that is bike
|-- <- you and bike on level ground
|/ <- you and bike going up jump
\/ <- you and bike going up jump if you didn't get forward
As you lean forward / the front comes toward you, your hand will also rotate forward on the throttle. You have to make a conscious effort to alter your throttle position as you move forward (and back) on the bike.
Well OldTimer I try ,but sometimes it only makes sense to me .
Gage method #2 , when you are old like me(dumb?) and you really want to tackle a jump . For example a big double right out of a turn that had me quite intimidated and no body around to watch do it.. I went at it several times until I had the nerve to totally"wick it" . Mind you I cased it plenty good , but I just had to see what attitude my bike was going to take . Once I felt convertible of the face of the jump , I wicked it and cleared the jump. :yikes:
Okiewan said:
Gage method #2 , when you are old like me(dumb?) and you really want to tackle a jump . For example a big double right out of a turn that had me quite intimidated and no body around to watch do it.. I went at it several times until I had the nerve to totally"wick it" . Mind you I cased it plenty good , but I just had to see what attitude my bike was going to take . Once I felt convertible of the face of the jump , I wicked it and cleared the jump. :yikes:
- Jun 29, 2005
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1: The method to tackle a jump greatly depends on the jump
2: I don't have one buddy who rides with me who has set his sag without me bugging him - bad bike setup = big trouble.
3: Usually it tis better to be long than to be short.
4: The most common problem I see when someone is trying to learn to jump is that they are in a gear too low. With the throttle pinned, and the motor revving there is only one correction you can make and that is to drop the front end - and that will happen if you do anything but keep it revving. Now on a 125 you don't have much choice, but on anything else with some semblance of a power band you do, I like to be in the lower to mid part of the power band where the bike is driving out of the corner, keep a finger on the clutch and make sure you have the bike straightened up before you let the ponies out, fishtailing out of the corner to a close jump face is almost garanteed crossed up landing. Being somewhere other than the top of the powerband gives you the ability to adjust speed, make corrections in the air and better drive at landing. Work on getting out of the corner clean - then tackle the jump, you'll find life much easier. I used to be terrified of jumping, now I'm usually the one everyone follows to figure our how.
2: I don't have one buddy who rides with me who has set his sag without me bugging him - bad bike setup = big trouble.
3: Usually it tis better to be long than to be short.
4: The most common problem I see when someone is trying to learn to jump is that they are in a gear too low. With the throttle pinned, and the motor revving there is only one correction you can make and that is to drop the front end - and that will happen if you do anything but keep it revving. Now on a 125 you don't have much choice, but on anything else with some semblance of a power band you do, I like to be in the lower to mid part of the power band where the bike is driving out of the corner, keep a finger on the clutch and make sure you have the bike straightened up before you let the ponies out, fishtailing out of the corner to a close jump face is almost garanteed crossed up landing. Being somewhere other than the top of the powerband gives you the ability to adjust speed, make corrections in the air and better drive at landing. Work on getting out of the corner clean - then tackle the jump, you'll find life much easier. I used to be terrified of jumping, now I'm usually the one everyone follows to figure our how.
- Aug 3, 2004
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Dont be expecting to any more of this kind of talk out of my mouth, but jumping is an area where a thumper is much easier to learn on than a 2-stroke.
- Aug 3, 2004
- 1,003
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But, a 4 stroke has much smoother power, you are less likely to completely chop the throttle. The firt time I jumped my new 2-stroke and I wasn't in the powerband, I almost went over the bars. I believe that the smoother power of the thumper makes a person less likely to completely roll off.
I doubt that many of you have ridden much on a Husy 360. Mostly because it's not the ideal type of bike for MXin', but at 230 lbs, it's agile enough to hop around on. Most people probably aren't aware of the low end on these bikes. It'll pull up the front end off idle. In fact, my last time out, I was in third at about five mph, sitting back on the seat and when I "goosed" it, the front wheel started to rise. That's real cool and all, but the reason I'm telling this is because throttle control on jumps is at an absolute premium. Just a little jiggle on the jump face and it goes front wheel high. Accelerating up a jump (which I feel compelled to do) is asking for it. I've found that if I sorta almost coast up the jumpface a gear or two high I get the right attitude, but that makes it hard not to let off a little. I also try to keep my belt buckle against the crossbar at take-off. Imagine trying to do a couple of quick laps like that.
So... what does this have to do with this thread?
I don't know, I just felt like talking about my bike... :cool:
No, really it just illustrates how you have to find a jump or two that you're comfortable with (safe ones), and experiment with different throttle positions, speeds, and body positions, until you're confident that you know what the bike is gonna do when you launch it. (I'm obviously still working on it! :ohmy: )
So... what does this have to do with this thread?
I don't know, I just felt like talking about my bike... :cool:
No, really it just illustrates how you have to find a jump or two that you're comfortable with (safe ones), and experiment with different throttle positions, speeds, and body positions, until you're confident that you know what the bike is gonna do when you launch it. (I'm obviously still working on it! :ohmy: )
High Lord Gomer
Poked with Sticks
- Sep 26, 1999
- 11,790
- 34
For me, two things make a 4 stroke easier to jump:
1. The power delivery is smooth and predictable so you never get a surprise burst of power on the jump face when you "hit the powerband".
2. Engine braking on a 4 stroke is strong enough that you rarely need to tap the rear brake in the air to lower the front. Merely letting off the throttle in the air gives you the same effect.
1. The power delivery is smooth and predictable so you never get a surprise burst of power on the jump face when you "hit the powerband".
2. Engine braking on a 4 stroke is strong enough that you rarely need to tap the rear brake in the air to lower the front. Merely letting off the throttle in the air gives you the same effect.
