KDX 200 or 220 questions and advice

[KnoxKDX]

From my own experience, I have a stock '98 200 and my brother has a stock '98 220...I am running a 48 tooth on the rear and his has stock gearing. In a drag race, we were neck and neck the ENTIRE way. I'm not saying this will happen all the time or for every bike, but that's the way it is with us. Unless you plan on sending it to Gorr for port and bore, I'd go 220. The difference in low end is more than the reviews lead you to believe and you don't lose top end. His bike will climb hills in 2nd gear that I have to "panic" downshift on and burn a little clutch. But I really like my bike and plan to Gorr it this winter. Just my 2 cents.

 

[KDXNick]

It's all about your riding style. I have my 200 set up for top end and I love it. I race HS and I'm faster on my modified 200 than I am on my buddies modified 220. But I used to race 125 moto, so I treat the throttle like a toggle switch, most of the time, and live with a finger on the clutch. I think that the reason behind this is that I tend to keep a bike on the pipe, and my 200 forces me to go faster when I do so. But, I'll admit that the 220 is better for trail riding. I can hop fallen trees on one better than I can on a KTM 250 EXC. And yes, on a drag they are dead even, but on a HS track I'm faster on the 200 for some reason. To each his own, whatever works as long as you're riding!
-Nick

 

[tim_from_az]

After reading all the feedback I'm leaning towards a KDX 220. I've heard the first thing to do is replace the pipe. Do you guys leave the gearing stock?

 

[Instaurare]

I wanted mine as a woods bike, with lowest possible gearing, so I switched the 13 tooth front sprocket for a 12. Also added a flywheel weight, which improved low speed performance noticibly.

 

[Fibb]

Hate to be a party pooper but, if you have the budget you should also consider a Yamaha WR 4 stroke and maybe even a KTM.

Not that the KDX won't still come out on top, just talking about keeping your options open.

 

[KDXNick]

I have tried a 48t and 50t rear sprocket. They would be nice for a stock bike but if you have any mods, the stock gearing is great (I belive that Jeff says something about this on his site). 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears (while on the pipe) will keep you at good race pace with the stock gearing. With the larger rear sprockets I felt like I was riding slower on the straights, because the bike reved out quicker and I backed off; and I didnt seem to carry enough cornering speed since I didn't have to keep the revs up and use the clutch as much in order to feel the "drive" after the apex. Taller gearing seems to keep me faster, since I try to keep it on the pipe as much as possible. I don't know about going smaller on the front (countershaft) sprocket. I have only heard of people going higher, to a 14t front, and I know only a few who have done this. Most of the pro wrenches and techs that I have talked to recomend going only 1 or 2 teeth in either direction when choosing a different sized rear sprocket. Going from a 13t to a 12t front sprocket would be the equivelant of ~ a 3 or 4 tooth smaller rear. I suspect that a change in gearing such as this, for a 220, would create a more mild low-end that pulles a little longer and a mid-top that pulls much softer (almost flat) but a bit longer. I think that a 220 with stock gearing and a rev pipe would work better, and a 200 with a tourque pipe would be even better. If youre looking for a softer bottom and more top, a 200 with a rev pipe and porting will pull just a little less than stock on the bottom, then explode like a big bore 125 mid-top.
-Nick

 

[KDXNick]

Sh@#, I'm sorry. I had the front sprocket sizes backward (too tired). A 12t will give you lower gearing (ie- more tourque), and a 14t will make it taller. Cant belive that I made that mistake, sorry. Still, a jump to a 12t seems a little much on a 220, they have great bottom end as it is. Try a 49 (R) first to see if you like it (although a front is cheaper and you wouldnt have to change the # of links on the chain, but with a pipe you will probably want taller gearing).
Sorry again for the false info, best of luck,
-Nick

 

[Instaurare]

In my experience with a 220, I found that adding a 12 tooth was the same as adding one full lower gear. I was able to chug up hard terrain very slowly without having to slip the clutch. Also, it was a very simple change, easily reversible, and only cost $15. Sure worth giving a try.