KDX250 fork and manual help!

[kmx125r]

Hello All,

I know the first reply I'll get from everybody on this inquiry is: "Buy a manual!"

Well, I know that, but being in the Philippines makes getting a manual a bit trickier than going down to the local dealer and ordering one! Besides, I need to get answer now!

I bought this KDX250SR just 2 weeks ago, and while the shock is in the US getting an overhaul, I thought I would pay some attention to the forks... I would really like to change the fluid, but I need some help...

I've been into a fair number of conventional forks, but I have never been into a set of inverted forks. I pulled the forks off the bike and opened the fork caps. How do I "separate" the fork caps from the lower portion of the fork. I see a nut below the fork cap, does that undo it?

When I measure the fork oil level I think I need to have the fork fully compressed, is that correct? With or without springs installed in it? What is the OEM level for the fork oil?

Thanks for your help. Unfortunately, I have only ridden the bike for about 5 minutes since I've had it and I'd like to have some other things ironed out it before my shock comes back next week.

By the way, when I'm on the buyKawasaki website it says I need a KDX200 manual and a KDX250 supplement... this SR model looks identical to a 1991-94 KDX250... you KDX250 owners out there, what manuals do I need to properly maintain this bike?

Salamat! (Thanks)

 

[dirt bike dave]

KMX - hopefully your bike has different fork valving and spring rates than the US model - that was one of the bike's weakest links. It takes more than an oil change to make the forks work well offroad - the springs are way to soft and there is way too much high speed compression damping.

Anyways, yes, you need to undo that nut at the bottom of the cap to get the cap and spring off. The easiest way is to use a thin wrench, feed it between the coils of the spring below the nut and spin the wrench up the spring until you can fit if over the nut.

Measure the oil level with the forks compressed and springs removed. See what your stock level is, but know that you can move the oil level quite bit for fine tuning the fork. After revalving I ran as little as 3.75" from the top, and the fork would almost never bottom, but you might try 4.25 - 4.5" for starters. Stock level is probably 5"?

As far as disassembly, I pulled mine apart to put in Race Tech gold valves and stiffer springs. At the time the gold valves came with a video that walked you through the process. It really helped a lot to watch the video first, but I guess the video is an extra cost item if you order gold valves now. Maybe some of the suspension companies offer a generic fork service video.

Never had any sort of comprehensive service manual, just the regular owner's manual (which doesn't have all that much information). Overall, the 250 is reliable and shouldn't need much more than regular generic dirt bike maintenance. But for serious inside the motor stuff, I think the KX250 has more similarities than a KDX200.

Gool luck with the bike, and I really encourage you to revalve the fork if you're serious about off-road performance.

Dave

 

[spanky250]

Dave's advice on the fork work is right on. I am using .41 springs in place of the .35 springs that came stock, and my oil level is 105mm from the top of the tube. I experimented with 90mm to 115mm, and this setting gave me the best feel. I am using Mobil 1 ATF in my forks. The gold valves make a huge difference, but are a little stiff.

As for the manual, I had to buy a KX250 manual, and an additional supplement that covers the differences between the KX and the KDX, as the bike is derived from a KX250. There is absolutely no similarity at all to a KDX200, except for the forks, they were the same on the 200 in '93-'94. The 200 is derived from a previous generation KX125, I believe.