KTM turning??
- Thread starter gospeedracer
- Start date
Isn't the reason why message/discussion boards exist is so we can share our "nonsense" amoung each other. :think I for one would like some opinions or alternatives before ponying up the bucks for a set of tripple clamps. Thanks for sharing your superior steering geometry knowledge with us idiots anyways. Patience.:scream:
John 300 EXC
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- Feb 28, 2000
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The only nonsense in this thread is telling a novice rider (no offense intended Aimie), that they need the same set up as a KTM factory rider. A stock KTM, Husky, Gas Gas is not the limiting factor for over 99% of people who throw a leg over the saddle.
I always had a feeling that if I could get my hands on Tiger Wood's golf clubs, I could win the Masters and the British Open. It can't be a lack of skill, I'm held back by my equipment! ( only talking about golf clubs)
I always had a feeling that if I could get my hands on Tiger Wood's golf clubs, I could win the Masters and the British Open. It can't be a lack of skill, I'm held back by my equipment! ( only talking about golf clubs)
TexKDX
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- Aug 8, 1999
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Finally, an answer to the question that makes sense.
Work with what ya got, work on your technique, and throw money at the clamps as a last resort. The correct springs, preload, and front/rear balance go a long way towards making the bike set up right in the turn. Technique is a big factor as well. The clamps are a tweak when all else is right and you want to be able to carve under people a little better on the MX track the way the jap bikes can.
The stock cockpit gives you plenty of room to work with. Plus, you do have some additional clearance ;).
lawman
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- Sep 20, 1999
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these posts have articulated my point better than i did. i'll try again: i spent big bucks on the clamps to try them out. they didn't solve the problem b/c they didn't address the underlying problem--suspension setup. they caused other problems: bar position, fork felt a little harsh, handling was twitchy at speed (if you get the clamps, you will need a damper). my suggestion: 1) springs 2) valving 3) if you still don't like it, try the clamps.
When I was a kid, there were no suspension tuners available to the public. Bikes were, how do you say....a bit harsh no matter what. Ergos meant nothing. Raw power and bad design to make for very hard to race rides.
But you know what...some guys were VERY fast on the old beasts. Why? Becase they learned how to deal with what they had. If the bike needed to be muscled, then you muscled it.
IMHO, no matter what mod you do, one has to learn to ride first...if you want to go fast that is.
Every trick factory mod in the book will not help if one does not learn to utilize what they have first.
The golf club thing is a perfect example.
But you know what...some guys were VERY fast on the old beasts. Why? Becase they learned how to deal with what they had. If the bike needed to be muscled, then you muscled it.
IMHO, no matter what mod you do, one has to learn to ride first...if you want to go fast that is.
Every trick factory mod in the book will not help if one does not learn to utilize what they have first.
The golf club thing is a perfect example.
stevep were talking about a 200 2-stroke and the 16mm clamps do not work on the 2-strokes. I have them on my 520 RFS and love them. But on the 2-stroke the front tire will not clear the pipe. Do you know how the KTM factory got around that problem. Thanks
GSR
Your last thought on your post is very true
If you are riding on the stock brickstones in rocky or rooty terrain, it could be tires or it could be sag settings or it could be clicker settings on the fork or shock or it could be springs. I believe you have the best offroad bike out there so you shouldn't have to through a bunch of effort or money at the bike. The 200 turns plenty quick but it turns different than a 125 mxer. You will find it a bit more precise but it will require input.
Your last thought on your post is very true
There are techniques that address that wash out feeling but we don't know what your style is or where you are riding. There was a section on offroad riding on motorcycle somthing on speedvision that addressed some basic offroad techniques. Larry Roesler of Stroker Racing was a guest and you might give him a call for info. Ther is a big difference between ring tracks where you see the same corner 40 times or riding offroad where you never see the same corner twice.
If you are riding on the stock brickstones in rocky or rooty terrain, it could be tires or it could be sag settings or it could be clicker settings on the fork or shock or it could be springs. I believe you have the best offroad bike out there so you shouldn't have to through a bunch of effort or money at the bike. The 200 turns plenty quick but it turns different than a 125 mxer. You will find it a bit more precise but it will require input.
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Nothing cracks me up more than when I'm sitting on the starting line and look at the guy next to me.....he has $500 triple clamps...along with worn out/bad choice tires, sag not set correctly, leaking forks seals,bad jetting ect. What a great use of $500!
sure...all the factory guys have trick clamps. and MXA says to run trick clamps..but spend your money on the right things and take the time to set up your bike(that is pretty much free performance) and learn to ride it.
Yes,,KTM's corner diferently than Jap bikes...because they are not Jap bikes. there is so much adjustability in bikes that a little time spent on setup will make all the difference in the world.
sure...all the factory guys have trick clamps. and MXA says to run trick clamps..but spend your money on the right things and take the time to set up your bike(that is pretty much free performance) and learn to ride it.
Yes,,KTM's corner diferently than Jap bikes...because they are not Jap bikes. there is so much adjustability in bikes that a little time spent on setup will make all the difference in the world.
MotoEnduro
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- Mar 11, 2001
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as the KTM turns...
I wasted a LOT of time trying to get my 250 EXC to turn in tight trails. Different springs, raised the forks, new tires, tried hundreds of different comp/rebound settings. These helped a little, but it was still horrible.
Finally I came to my senses, sent the susp out last week to get revalved. Now it turns fine :) I rode 50 miles of tight trail and sand whoops on Saturday. Once the comp/reb settings are dialed in a little more, it' ll turn great.
These are the only changes I made:
1. Corrrect springs for my weight (.38/PDS1)
2. Revalved suspension for my weight, ability and terrain
3. Raised forks up a bit in the triple clamps (7mm or where the 3rd line'd be)
4. Steering damper
5. DCI box under the tank, steering stops turned all the way in
Tires are really affecting the handling too. I'm on my 3rd front tire, testing them out. The S12 is on there now, but NG for this deep sand, I'm going to try the Bridgestone M40 on Wed.
Don't give up, if I can get this bike to turn anyone can ;)
I wasted a LOT of time trying to get my 250 EXC to turn in tight trails. Different springs, raised the forks, new tires, tried hundreds of different comp/rebound settings. These helped a little, but it was still horrible.
Finally I came to my senses, sent the susp out last week to get revalved. Now it turns fine :) I rode 50 miles of tight trail and sand whoops on Saturday. Once the comp/reb settings are dialed in a little more, it' ll turn great.
These are the only changes I made:
1. Corrrect springs for my weight (.38/PDS1)
2. Revalved suspension for my weight, ability and terrain
3. Raised forks up a bit in the triple clamps (7mm or where the 3rd line'd be)
4. Steering damper
5. DCI box under the tank, steering stops turned all the way in
Tires are really affecting the handling too. I'm on my 3rd front tire, testing them out. The S12 is on there now, but NG for this deep sand, I'm going to try the Bridgestone M40 on Wed.
Don't give up, if I can get this bike to turn anyone can ;)
MotoEnduro
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- Mar 11, 2001
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Tex
I'm using the WER damper. The link arm runs fairly close to the frame. The fork leg doesn't even come close to hitting it when fully turned.
I used the EE adapter to put the DCI box under the tank.
I didn't experience any bottoming out either. On the stand, the front end turns smoothly from lock to lock.
I'm using the WER damper. The link arm runs fairly close to the frame. The fork leg doesn't even come close to hitting it when fully turned.
I used the EE adapter to put the DCI box under the tank.
I didn't experience any bottoming out either. On the stand, the front end turns smoothly from lock to lock.
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- May 14, 2000
- 1,082
- 6
I have noticed this to be true with alot of first-time KTMers, the rear ride height is directly related to the way these bikes turn. The guys who set there rear suspension soft, (so they can get their feet on the ground) are the same guys complaining that their KTM's dont turn. I'm not saying that this is your problem GSR, but may be something to try. :)
