Can anyone that has photos of lowered KDX's please send them to me? I am about 5'6" tall and I'm looking at purchasing a new KDX but the seat height is a little too high for me. I am considering the KDX and a CRF230, but I prefer the KDX if I can get more comfortable on it. I only weigh about 150 lbs. Is there anyway to adjust the suspension so that when I mount the bike it will squat? The one I sat on at the dealer didn't move when I got on. Any info or photos (preferred) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
lowered kdx photos-new member
- Thread starter 128fan
- Start date
Lowering links can drop the seat about 1". (about $35 on that great big auction site - easy to install) That inch can make all the difference. Are your legs, in proportion to the rest of you, shorter or longer? New bikes are a bit stiff, but just a bit. If you are inexperienced and a bit tame by nature, the 230 should work just fine, but if speed thrills you, like it does me.....go for the KDX!!
Or see, for bit more money... http://www.koubalink.com/kdxinstall.html
I see that the auction site seller is not offering a set at this time. I can send you a link if necessary
I see that the auction site seller is not offering a set at this time. I can send you a link if necessary
- Thread starter
- #4
thanks. i looked at the kouba links. how much drop is necessary for the front to make the bike proportioned? i really prefer the kdx over the honda. i can get a better deal on the kawa' and i'm afraid the honda may be a little too tame. i would really like to see some photos of lowered bikes to see how they look. thanks again and any more info from anyone would be greatly appreciated.
C
CaNaDiAn,Eh?
Another option you could look into is shaving the seat down, some people get good results with that.
My previous ride was a CRF230, which was a great trail bike. The motor was quite nice, but the suspension was horriable. I tried a variety of springs, but the suspension was still crap. It boiled down to the need for an aftermarket shock (Works). I figured once the rear was fixed, I'd be into replacing the front forks to create a rideable bike. I determined that it was more cost effective to sell the bike and go with something else. I ended up with the KDX 200 this past fall.
I'm vertically challenged at 5' - 6" (155lbs) such as yourself. The first time I rode the bike I realized that I needed to lower it to be comfortable on the trails. I stumbled across the links on ****, so I figured I'd give them a try since the cost was reasonable. The links were easy to install (great directions), and they worked great. In addition to the links, the front forks need to be raised in the upper triple clamp until they just hit the handle vars. With the links and the forks raised, the bike fits very similar to the CRF230. I haven't had the opportunity to ride the bike on the trails, but I have no reason to believe that the links will decrease the rideability.
I hope this helps.
I'm vertically challenged at 5' - 6" (155lbs) such as yourself. The first time I rode the bike I realized that I needed to lower it to be comfortable on the trails. I stumbled across the links on ****, so I figured I'd give them a try since the cost was reasonable. The links were easy to install (great directions), and they worked great. In addition to the links, the front forks need to be raised in the upper triple clamp until they just hit the handle vars. With the links and the forks raised, the bike fits very similar to the CRF230. I haven't had the opportunity to ride the bike on the trails, but I have no reason to believe that the links will decrease the rideability.
I hope this helps.
I got back into riding after 20 years off by buyig a CRF230 a couple of years ago. It was fun for a few rides until I started to get the urge for speed again. I bought an 03 KDX 220 and and could not be happier. My wife now rides the 230 and is very happy. My lesson learned is that you don't want to buy something that you will not be happy with. Buy the KDX and be happy!
My 12 year old son at the time was too big for his Yamaha TTR125 and growing out of it. Our family was looking at the folowing year of a new purchase. We considered the CRF230 or Yam ttr225. After speaking with another friend, we came to the conclusion that after a year or so he would probably out grow the TTR230 and need yet another bike. We purchased a used KDX200 and a set of Koboa KDX#3 links for it. Dropped the front forks as low as we could in the clamps and adj the sag in the rear. Bike height was lowered, and he felt comfortable on it for a year. Handling was good, however on really big jumps. [big jumps] the rear suspension did have a tendancy to bottom out. [front was fine] Now the kid is 15 and still growing. Bike is ready for another adjustment. We are changeing from the Koboa KDX#3 links to the KDX #2 links. It will make the height slightly taller than the #3 links yet not as high as stock. For our family it was much more cost efficent in the long run to buy the links and not the smaller bike and later have to purchase a full size later. We will have the KDX#3 links as extra's once the KDX#2's are installed. But only cost us $70 to upgrade versus $2900+ for a CRF230 play bike.
I have read that using the lowering links also softens the effective spring rate by changing the angle of the linkage. Can someone confirm this? If true, don't be in too big a hurry to increase the sag and mess up the geometry. One change at a time.
I thought my kids would hate the height of my stock KDX, coming from much lower bikes, but they fight over who gets to ride the thing. I'm looking for another KDX.
I thought my kids would hate the height of my stock KDX, coming from much lower bikes, but they fight over who gets to ride the thing. I'm looking for another KDX.
Hi. Most any bike is designed with a rider in mind of average height, weight and riding skill level. If you weigh 150, then you will weigh from 160 - 165. Unless you ride naked, you need to worry about your weight in full riding gear when discussing suspension issues. Also, if you plan to carry any tools or a water backpack (CamelBak), add that onto the 160 - 165. The KDX comes stock with an unbalnced suspension setting. The fork springs are a good bit softer than the shock spring. If you were taller and had no desire to lower the bike, you would be better off with new fork springs that are a little stiffer and a new shock spring that is a little bit softer shock spring.
If you are wanting the bike to sag more under your weight, then a softer shock spring is in order. You can probably get by with the stock fork springs for now. Later on you may feel more comfortable to go faster and need a stiffer spring.
The best, but most expensive solution, is to have travel limiting spacers installed in the forks and shock. These, along with the corrct rate (stiffness) fork and shock springs for your weight, riding skill level and terrain, will give the best results.
YES, ANY different links will change the geometry. They won't change the stiffness of the spring or action of the shock itself. It does change the linkage curve, however. Since it also affects seat hieght and is cheaper than having travel limiting spacers installed, people flock to them.
That Honda is a great bike, but you need to decide if you think you will outgrow it performace wise and whether or not to just go ahead and get something you can grow into it instead of grow out of. Good luck with it, either way you go!
If you are wanting the bike to sag more under your weight, then a softer shock spring is in order. You can probably get by with the stock fork springs for now. Later on you may feel more comfortable to go faster and need a stiffer spring.
The best, but most expensive solution, is to have travel limiting spacers installed in the forks and shock. These, along with the corrct rate (stiffness) fork and shock springs for your weight, riding skill level and terrain, will give the best results.
YES, ANY different links will change the geometry. They won't change the stiffness of the spring or action of the shock itself. It does change the linkage curve, however. Since it also affects seat hieght and is cheaper than having travel limiting spacers installed, people flock to them.
That Honda is a great bike, but you need to decide if you think you will outgrow it performace wise and whether or not to just go ahead and get something you can grow into it instead of grow out of. Good luck with it, either way you go!
Good advice so far. We bought my 15 year old son the KDX220 thinking the torquiness would make him comfortable. Not so. Kept killing it, started getting scared of it. Guess what *I* ride now? :cool: (Really, I didn't buy it for myself. Really I didn't. Honest. :p )
So we got him a used CRF230 in really great shape for $2200 (used will hold down the cost). It's a great trail bike as long as you don't ride aggressively. The motor is an impressive tractor, hard to kill. Matching the bike to the confidence is VERY key to getting better. If you are somewhat aggressive in nature, the CRF will not last long before you override it. If you are primarily a trail rider, and don't see yourself riding very fast over technical terrain, the CRF will serve you well. Especially the torquiness, and the ebutton, along with the manageable size. My son's confidence has grown tremendously.
Just remember, it was not that long ago that good woods riders won enduros on the XR200, the CRF's predecessor. The suspenders are fixable and stock they are much better than the XR's.
So we got him a used CRF230 in really great shape for $2200 (used will hold down the cost). It's a great trail bike as long as you don't ride aggressively. The motor is an impressive tractor, hard to kill. Matching the bike to the confidence is VERY key to getting better. If you are somewhat aggressive in nature, the CRF will not last long before you override it. If you are primarily a trail rider, and don't see yourself riding very fast over technical terrain, the CRF will serve you well. Especially the torquiness, and the ebutton, along with the manageable size. My son's confidence has grown tremendously.
Just remember, it was not that long ago that good woods riders won enduros on the XR200, the CRF's predecessor. The suspenders are fixable and stock they are much better than the XR's.
- Thread starter
- #13
I am 29 years old and weigh 150 in street clothes with shoes, so I don't think a helmet and boots is going to add 10-15 pounds on me. I've had several bikes in the past, just not one in about three years. I would say after riding a little again just to get familiar, I would rate myself as an intermediate rider. Definitely not a beginner and definitely not a pro. If I buy the KDX it would be my first two-stroke. I've always had four-strokes. I really feel like I would quickly be disatisfied with the CRF 230 if the power, suspension, etc. is not good. I believe I would prefer the KDX (if it has low-end like I've been lead to believe) and I can get the seat a little lower. I was always told two-strokes need to be "wound tight" to make power. I only need about 1-2 inches lower and that would be fine. I just want everyones suggestions/ opinions before I buy one and dislike it being lowered. Thanks.
I'm 5' 6", too. 165 lbs. And I rode 4-strokes for 30 years before I bought the KDX. The KDX does NOT need to be "wound tight". It's a good tractable, powerful engine. My KX125, on the other hand....
I'd like to lower my bike, but I've been able to live with it for the past 5 years. It's just taught me to keep my feet on the pegs, pick a good line, and ride. If I do need to get off, I don't bother with straddling- I just jump off and stand next to the bike.
I shaved the seat on mine and I'm a little sorry I did because it changes the seat/bar relationship and I felt like I was riding a chopper. The fix was to get a set of Charmichael bars that are lower than the KX bend I was using previously. That restored the feel and I'm happy again. What you can do, though, is shave the _sides_ of the seat to make it a little thinner. My KX feels much smaller, but I've spent a lot of time in the garage with the tape measure and it's really not- it's exactly the same height as the KDX. The difference is that the KX is slimmer and the rear of the seat stays flat while the KDX rises. I trimmed the back of the KDX seat as much as I could and that helped a little, but the whole sub-frame is just a different shape with the KDX being taller.
If I were buying the KDX tomorrow, knowing what I know now, I'd send it to a good suspension shop and have them put 1-2" spacers in the suspension to lower the whole bike. But, right now, I'm used t it.
I'd like to lower my bike, but I've been able to live with it for the past 5 years. It's just taught me to keep my feet on the pegs, pick a good line, and ride. If I do need to get off, I don't bother with straddling- I just jump off and stand next to the bike.
I shaved the seat on mine and I'm a little sorry I did because it changes the seat/bar relationship and I felt like I was riding a chopper. The fix was to get a set of Charmichael bars that are lower than the KX bend I was using previously. That restored the feel and I'm happy again. What you can do, though, is shave the _sides_ of the seat to make it a little thinner. My KX feels much smaller, but I've spent a lot of time in the garage with the tape measure and it's really not- it's exactly the same height as the KDX. The difference is that the KX is slimmer and the rear of the seat stays flat while the KDX rises. I trimmed the back of the KDX seat as much as I could and that helped a little, but the whole sub-frame is just a different shape with the KDX being taller.
If I were buying the KDX tomorrow, knowing what I know now, I'd send it to a good suspension shop and have them put 1-2" spacers in the suspension to lower the whole bike. But, right now, I'm used t it.
A little background so you can know where I sit before hearing where I stand: I've been a thumper rider mostly, for decades. I like that kind of power. I came off an IT175 way back when (had to ride it like a 125 motocrosser, not a lot of fun really) and switched to big thumpers before the 4 stroke serious motoboy kind of bikes were built.
The KDX220 does not make thumper power, but neither does it need to be wound tight (though it does reward if you put a Gnarly Desert pipe on it and wind it up!). Its a different kind of power really, and you need to use the clutch in low-rev technical stuff rather than relying on the throttle like you can get away with on a big thumper.
Mind you, it's still a bad habit on a big thumper, but you can get away with it. Instead, feather the clutch on a KDX, whilst blipping the throttle; learn the two-finger light clutch method. In other words work the bike a bit, and the light weight, down-low torque, and snappiness can be very, very handy. Not to mention pretty darn fun.
Drop the hammer in the open stuff and it's still fun. Drop the bike in huge boulders or deep mud and it won't punish you like a big thumper. Even the CRF lets you know its weight in that kind of situation.
Sounds like a nice used KDX220 and some mod money (pipe, rear spring) would be your cup of tea. Just play with the clutch and see what happens in the gnarly stuff!
The KDX220 does not make thumper power, but neither does it need to be wound tight (though it does reward if you put a Gnarly Desert pipe on it and wind it up!). Its a different kind of power really, and you need to use the clutch in low-rev technical stuff rather than relying on the throttle like you can get away with on a big thumper.
Mind you, it's still a bad habit on a big thumper, but you can get away with it. Instead, feather the clutch on a KDX, whilst blipping the throttle; learn the two-finger light clutch method. In other words work the bike a bit, and the light weight, down-low torque, and snappiness can be very, very handy. Not to mention pretty darn fun.
Drop the hammer in the open stuff and it's still fun. Drop the bike in huge boulders or deep mud and it won't punish you like a big thumper. Even the CRF lets you know its weight in that kind of situation.
Sounds like a nice used KDX220 and some mod money (pipe, rear spring) would be your cup of tea. Just play with the clutch and see what happens in the gnarly stuff!
Been down that road recently
Last April I bought my first Dirt bike, 01 KDX 220. It had tall seat foam and suspended for a rider a little taller, but not much bigger than myself. I could barely get on the thing, but once on it, was very comfortable. The first thing I did was carve the crap out of the foam. I got it really low, but did not like the shape I had made it. It was stiff foam and was shaped like a saddle. So I went to a stock foam with no mods. It is ok and after quite a few rides, I still would like it a little lower, but I don't want the seat lower relative to the pegs. I just (today) ordered the Kuoba links on line, and was super impressed by the speedy response. The order was in by 12 noon pst, and the order already shipped! This should lower the bike about 1.5 inches and give the little edge that I want. My advice would be to avoid taking too much out of the seat. While I liked the ease of touching the ground while in the saddle, I didn't like the shape or the inability to move around on the saddle while riding. After all is said and done I will let you know how the links work out.
Last April I bought my first Dirt bike, 01 KDX 220. It had tall seat foam and suspended for a rider a little taller, but not much bigger than myself. I could barely get on the thing, but once on it, was very comfortable. The first thing I did was carve the crap out of the foam. I got it really low, but did not like the shape I had made it. It was stiff foam and was shaped like a saddle. So I went to a stock foam with no mods. It is ok and after quite a few rides, I still would like it a little lower, but I don't want the seat lower relative to the pegs. I just (today) ordered the Kuoba links on line, and was super impressed by the speedy response. The order was in by 12 noon pst, and the order already shipped! This should lower the bike about 1.5 inches and give the little edge that I want. My advice would be to avoid taking too much out of the seat. While I liked the ease of touching the ground while in the saddle, I didn't like the shape or the inability to move around on the saddle while riding. After all is said and done I will let you know how the links work out.
- Thread starter
- #17
yeah please let me know how the kouba links work out. i have been researching them and checking them out. i believe if i buy the KDX i will get those. i just don't know how much the front would need to be lowered to make the bike proportioned. on kouba's site it says to install a second set of upper bar clamps and use longer bolts so that the forks can slid further. i don't see how a second set of upper clamps being used is possible. i am definitely against the seat foam mod, so that is not an option. keep the info coming everyone. thanks.
dirtbikingdad
Member
- Oct 25, 2005
- 161
- 0
We made our links... copied from Koubalinks from 1/4" steel. Stock is 117.5 mm and I made the new ones 120 mm. It sat the back end down a good 1". Before I dropped it I placed an adjustable level on the seat. Installed the new links and replaced the level on the seat. Next, we dropped the front forks till the bike was back to level. That way we maintained the correct geometry. Next we checked the spring sag. It was right on the money. Total drop about 1-3/8". No need to shave the seat! :laugh:
No complaints here. While Kouba makes longer links, I would not go any longer since the forks are about to hit the bars now. Since my son is 15 and he's still growing, I did not want to go into the forks and place limiters inside when in a year or so, I'll simply remove the links and all will be "back to normal".
If you're handy with metal, I'll be happy to send you my plans.
No complaints here. While Kouba makes longer links, I would not go any longer since the forks are about to hit the bars now. Since my son is 15 and he's still growing, I did not want to go into the forks and place limiters inside when in a year or so, I'll simply remove the links and all will be "back to normal".
If you're handy with metal, I'll be happy to send you my plans.
I'm 5'-6", 29" inseam and ride bikes that are a lot taller than the KDX (KTM 250 EXC and YZ250,) I have never felt the need to have a lower bike. I have purchased lower seats for my KTMs since they have a real hard seat to begin with and the EE seat is lower and much more comfortable. I've ridden lowered bikes (with longer links) and the links just screw up the frame geometry in my opinion. MX-Tech does a great job lowering forks and shocks and maintaining a properly balanced ride. That's expensive, however. You mention that you want to soften the suspension to accomadate your height, that is a bad idea. Search some posts on suspension tuning and you will learn that you must set the sag of the bike to your weight to get the bike to handle correctly, then you adjust compression and dampening to suit your abilities and preference. A properly tuned suspension is the one modification you can do to your bike to increase enjoyment and confidence in your equipment. Don't take that away by turning your bike into a po-go stick!
- Thread starter
- #20
Thanks guys for the replys. Any info from others is welcome. Yeah, dirtbikingdad, if you want to send the plans to my email that would be awesome. I don't think I would have any problems making the links. If I could drop the bike the amount you said, it would be perfect. I have three people I am talking to about buying, so I should be getting the bike pretty soon. Just waiting to get the best deal. Thanks again.
dirtbikingdad
Member
- Oct 25, 2005
- 161
- 0
128fan, PM me your e-mail and I'll send them to you PDF. (I guess PDF could mean two different things... :) ) All you have to do is glue them onto some steel and cut away. You'll need a 9/16 drill bit too, if memory serves me correctly.
Oh yeah, I'll post a pic of the bike late this week too. (In the middle of a few upgrades right now, parts will be here Monday! :laugh: )
Oh yeah, I'll post a pic of the bike late this week too. (In the middle of a few upgrades right now, parts will be here Monday! :laugh: )
punkrawker
Member
- Jan 2, 2006
- 60
- 0
my second bike was an 04 crf230 its a great begginer bike and lasted my 2 years of riding than i wanted to start jumping a little but stick to trails and maybe trail racing and nothing pissed me off more than the battery on the electric start so i went 2t trails bike with great suspension and wound up with an 01 kdx220 great move
KDX2 Kuoba Links
I received the Kuoba links 3 days after I ordered them. It took me 5 minutes to put em on and torque them. I am kicking myself for not measuring the seat height prior to installing them, but I know that my bike jack/stand easily fit under the skid plate before the mod, and it barely fits now. I dropped the tripples about 5/8" on the fork tubes and there is still 1/16 to 1/8" clearance to the bars. It took my a while to reset the sag. I chose to set it at about 3 1/4". The Kuoba link recommendation was to set it at 3.9" if you wanted to use the links for "lowering only" or 3" for other (not sure what the other reason for getting the links would be). I am guessing that my geometry is off a bit now since I lowered the rear more than the front, but I am not sure what difference it will make. I went to Pozo on saturday and rode it about 35 miles and didn't have any complaints. It is easier for me to get off and on, and I did a lot of getting back on. It is also a little easier to touch the ground while mounted. I will probably do a little seat shaping to narrow it a tad, and to get a little shape to it. I will try to get some comparison pics posted.
I received the Kuoba links 3 days after I ordered them. It took me 5 minutes to put em on and torque them. I am kicking myself for not measuring the seat height prior to installing them, but I know that my bike jack/stand easily fit under the skid plate before the mod, and it barely fits now. I dropped the tripples about 5/8" on the fork tubes and there is still 1/16 to 1/8" clearance to the bars. It took my a while to reset the sag. I chose to set it at about 3 1/4". The Kuoba link recommendation was to set it at 3.9" if you wanted to use the links for "lowering only" or 3" for other (not sure what the other reason for getting the links would be). I am guessing that my geometry is off a bit now since I lowered the rear more than the front, but I am not sure what difference it will make. I went to Pozo on saturday and rode it about 35 miles and didn't have any complaints. It is easier for me to get off and on, and I did a lot of getting back on. It is also a little easier to touch the ground while mounted. I will probably do a little seat shaping to narrow it a tad, and to get a little shape to it. I will try to get some comparison pics posted.
- Thread starter
- #25
hey guys, any pics or your bikes would be greatly appreciated. all the info has been very helpful but i would still like to see what the lowered bikes look like. dirtbikingdad, i sent you an email so you could send the link info. let me know if you got it or not.
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