dirtbikingdad
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- Oct 25, 2005
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I got it. I'll send the PDF file home today and I'll forward it to you tonight. We're finishing up our KDX "freshening up" and I'll post pics too.
lowered kdx photos-new member
- Thread starter 128fan
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dirtbikingdad
Member
- Oct 25, 2005
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fundgh said:
I agree it really doesn't look different. Sicking next to my CR250 you can really barely tell, however, when you sit on it, YOU CAN TELL! :D
We're finished with the new graphics and should be able to pick up the new seat tonight or tomorrow night. I'll post a pic right after that... before it gets any scratches! :(
Did you get the pdf? I sent it this morning.
Another question regarding lowering the front to match the rear. Is there a way to measure the "correct geometry so that I know when I get it correct? I did not measure the seat height with the stock links, so after puting the K-Links on, I can't quantify the difference, and I do not know how much to lower the Tripple trees on the fork legs. Also, when it is suggested that you can use a second set of handle bar mounts with longer bolts, what exctly is being suggested?
dirtbikingdad
Member
- Oct 25, 2005
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Sorry, I missed the earlier post about the stock length. My memory is awful! I write stuff down and then it's gone.... I have to find my piece of paper... which gets back to my poor filing! :pissed:
I think you are right. Stock is 112 and Kouba makes 3 different lengths from what I can tell from many different threads I researched. I made the 120's and it dropped it about 1-3/8". Believe me that is alot.
I'll go ahead a post my drawing here. You simply have to use 1/4" thick steel to make these.
I think you are right. Stock is 112 and Kouba makes 3 different lengths from what I can tell from many different threads I researched. I made the 120's and it dropped it about 1-3/8". Believe me that is alot.
I'll go ahead a post my drawing here. You simply have to use 1/4" thick steel to make these.
dirtbikingdad
Member
- Oct 25, 2005
- 161
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fundgh,
I can measure how much I moved my forks up in the clamps if you want with the 120's. If you have a different length, put the old ones back on, place a level on the seat, if you have an adjustable one that is better, or block a regular until it is level. Tape it down. Next, put the longer links on, and then drop the forks until the level shows "level" again. Weight distribution is back to stock... Of course all this is without a rider on the bike. After you get the bike level, go ahead and check the sag with the rider on the bike. The shock will now be tad softer and you may have to dial in more preload to make everything good again.
If the forks are too short the front end will tend to dive and perhaps dig in too much in the corners. If the forks are too long, the bike may have a tendancy to push in the corners or perhaps a wheelie a little more than before.
Regarding the handlebars, they are suggesting placing a "riser" on the triple clamp. Check your bike shop or rockymtn. They are usually 1". This will get the bars up some more and allow the legs to rise up into the triple clamps more. The 120's is about as much as you can go and not have to do this. However, my case may be a bit different than some since I have 30" wide (YZ85) bars on ours. With regular width bars, the forks may not actually drop as much as mine do.
I can measure how much I moved my forks up in the clamps if you want with the 120's. If you have a different length, put the old ones back on, place a level on the seat, if you have an adjustable one that is better, or block a regular until it is level. Tape it down. Next, put the longer links on, and then drop the forks until the level shows "level" again. Weight distribution is back to stock... Of course all this is without a rider on the bike. After you get the bike level, go ahead and check the sag with the rider on the bike. The shock will now be tad softer and you may have to dial in more preload to make everything good again.
If the forks are too short the front end will tend to dive and perhaps dig in too much in the corners. If the forks are too long, the bike may have a tendancy to push in the corners or perhaps a wheelie a little more than before.
Regarding the handlebars, they are suggesting placing a "riser" on the triple clamp. Check your bike shop or rockymtn. They are usually 1". This will get the bars up some more and allow the legs to rise up into the triple clamps more. The 120's is about as much as you can go and not have to do this. However, my case may be a bit different than some since I have 30" wide (YZ85) bars on ours. With regular width bars, the forks may not actually drop as much as mine do.
Here are some pics of the changes. I used K-link KDX2 and set the sag between two recommended settings of 3" and 3.9". I figure the sag is at 3.25". I moved the forks up 5/8" and I have an FRP one piece bar mount, so I have a set of upper clamps if I need them.
Attachments
Forks/Tripples
And the front end...
I guess I can' t put this picture in because it is in a different thread.
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=128634
And the front end...
I guess I can' t put this picture in because it is in a different thread.
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=128634
Last edited:
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Cool. Anymore photos from anyone? I am still looking at the kdx and crf230, but hopefully i will get one or the other. I like different things about each bike. I believe I am leaning more toward the KDX if I can get it lowered a little. Thanks again.
I am 5' 6-7" also, but I have a 34" inseam,( yes, my husband said he married me for my legs :laugh:) Not sure if this picture is any help, because it is not lowered or anything.
It fits me perfectly. I weigh 145 and just put a new softer rear spring on it(4.6) and the new spring measured 3/4" taller. But, the mistake I made was not measuring the seat height before changing springs. I think it made it taller with the softer spring, but maybe it squishes down more when I sit on it. I only have one ride on it with the new spring, I could tell a difference, but not sure how it was different. I am keeping the stock front springs for now, but, I was thinking one rate stiffer in the front, like .38's(I think)
Here is the pic:
It fits me perfectly. I weigh 145 and just put a new softer rear spring on it(4.6) and the new spring measured 3/4" taller. But, the mistake I made was not measuring the seat height before changing springs. I think it made it taller with the softer spring, but maybe it squishes down more when I sit on it. I only have one ride on it with the new spring, I could tell a difference, but not sure how it was different. I am keeping the stock front springs for now, but, I was thinking one rate stiffer in the front, like .38's(I think)
Here is the pic:
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