More Clutch Help !!

[MTRIDER]

After installing new plates I still am having a hard time with adjustment !! Seems to me if you tighten the bolts that go through the springs (in the clutch pack) the lever is dead(the springs are fully compressed?) How do you adjust the bolts....I had a better feeling clutch when I back out the screws about 5 turns from a positive stop...HELP :o What am I missing here ?

And now that I think about it there is a small groove in the clutch cover right by the site window.....I have looked over the exploded view of the clutch for about 2 hours now and I dont see anything that I am missing......

 

[BRush]

You need to have the bottom of the spring holder plate in positive contact with the top of the wheel towers for this to work. There is no way you can leave the screws backed out and expect the clutch to survive (even if it worked).

Seems to me if you tighten the bolts that go through the springs (in the clutch pack) the lever is dead(the springs are fully compressed?)

Not really, here's how I understand it: Once the bolts are tight (holder plate at positive stop on the bolt towers), the springs are doing their job clamping the steel and friction plates together and allowing the engine to drive the transmission. When you pull in the clutch lever, the end of the vertical clutch rod rotates and pushes against the pusher rod. Movement of this rod against the spring holder plate pushes the clutch wheel away from the hub (compressing the clutch springs more in the process) . This removes the clamping pressure on the clutch plates, allowing the clutch to freewheel and disengage from the transmission. Lever engagement range is controlled by adding washers (92022-1181) to the pusher rod. I'd be surprised if it was necessary though. I thought I was going to have a problem on mine when I put in Fredette's springs and plates, but when I called him he said just to "put it back together and it will be fine" and it was.

Make ** ABSOLUTELY SURE ** that you have the two spacing washers in the correct position (shown in the link below). If either one is not there or in the wrong location that will screw up the engagement. That messed me up the first time I did this. Also some things that worked well for me: New springs. The 95 & 96 springs are a weak point and were changed by Kawasaki for the 97 model year and later. You should replace them with the later springs while you have the chance. I've had good luck with the stiffer Fredette springs. The shop manual shows the last (outer) friction plate as being offset from the others. I did not do that. Also, I did not reinstall the "coned disk spring and seat".

Good luck.

 

[MTRIDER]

BRUSH Thanks for your help ! Finally figured it out the stupid aftermarket springs I got have too many windings in them and were completely bottomed out...so I got stock springs and they work just fine....so expect a flame from me (thats the whole reason I broke the wheel clutch)

Thanks again