my cr250 is in pieces...needing some help

SVTMc-G

Member
Apr 1, 2006
368
0
Hey fella's and ladies!
So I started my winter project of overhauling my ancient beast. She's in pieces!!
I am in the middle of fork seal replacment. Couldn't get the darn things to seat properly. I couldn't get them in all the way. I'm literally shy by about 1-2mm! I'm too cheap to buy a seal driver ...and using the old seal to drive them just DIDN'T work. I ended up moving my seal housing out of place. I'm debating having the seals driven in by a shop. I measured my springs and they're needing replacment since I weigh over 200lbs. so there's more cash!hahaha I also have to have my shock rebuilt. it's TOO soft(I bottom out ALL the time front and rear...hence the rebuilding...the bike was set up for woods crusing by the previous owner...and I need some track time in my life)and it leaks like a mother you know what!

I took the cylinder head off of my engine to scope it out.....and it turns out I have a line of abrasion about 1/4" wide on the wall of the cylinder!:-( So....what do I do about that? I know some models have special coatings and such on the cylinder wall. Will it come out in honing...or does it need bored and sleeved? There is some play in the piston so it will need a FULL top end job to boot anyway(I'd do it either way since it's apart) SO I need some advice there. I'm getting dicouraged already!haha I should just buy a new bike huh?haha hey...she's old....but she's mine!
anyway...any help would be MUCH appreciated...thank you ahead of time!!:-)
Matt McGuyer
 

SVTMc-G

Member
Apr 1, 2006
368
0
I forgot to mention...the compression is fine and the thing has ran VERY strong since i got it. I've had NO problems with the motor at all! it does have a rattle at idle though...which I was told is sign of needing new piston and rings...but no matter how good it runs...abrasions inside the cylinder are bad!haha thanks again,
Matt
 

76GMC1500

Uhhh...
Oct 19, 2006
2,142
1
If you can find a piece of PVC pipe that approximately matches the diameter of the fork, you can split it and use it with a plastic/rawhide/deadblow hammer to drive the seal in the rest of the way. Don't use a metal hammer because you don't want to be putting dings on the surface of the fork slider.
 

uts

Member
Jan 8, 2004
305
0
SVTMc-G said:
Hey fella's and ladies!
I'm getting dicouraged already!haha I should just buy a new bike huh?haha hey...she's old....but she's mine!
Matt McGuyer


No way, old Cr 250's are sweet. For the forks check out what 76GMC1500 said, As for the bore, that abrasion needs fixing. Depending on the depth of the scratches you could either go with a replate or get it sleeved. Replating is more expensive, Maybe even just a hone. But you may need it checked by a shop. Either way if you get it done up you won't be sorry and it will still be cheaper than getting a new bike.

just my opinion anyway
 

SVTMc-G

Member
Apr 1, 2006
368
0
I love that old thing!haha It's a beast.

Well...the abrasion seems to be bordered by what seems to be flaking of some sort. you can DEFINATELY feel the abrasion....it may be more of a gouge. would that be the plating? if I sleeve it will it need bored before the sleeving? I thought it would honestly. keep the help coming. Thanks fellas
 

76GMC1500

Uhhh...
Oct 19, 2006
2,142
1
A cylinder has to be bored out so a sleeve can be installed. I would personally go the plating route considering a sleeve costs $90 and there is $90 in labor to install it. I seem to remember the price of replating being somewhere in the neighborhood of $200. New cylinders through Service Honda are around $300.
 

Steve St.Laurent

Mi. Trail Riders
Member
Feb 6, 2006
255
0
When I did the forks on my '89 the original seals had a washer over them that was approx 1mm thick - the new seals were thicker and designed to not have that washer there. Check the two seals and compare the measurements.
 

zewcrew

Member
Dec 5, 2006
28
0
76GMC1500 said:
If you can find a piece of PVC pipe that approximately matches the diameter of the fork, you can split it and use it with a plastic/rawhide/deadblow hammer to drive the seal

This is the way to go... I did mine recently and was able to knock the seals home with a couple good solid whacks.
 

SVTMc-G

Member
Apr 1, 2006
368
0
cool! thanks fellas! you rule as always!
Matt
 

Britt Boyette

Member
Aug 16, 2004
280
0
You can also warm up the tubes with a heat gun which makes them expand a little. The seals will almost drop in. Also, check with Bike Bandit for a replacement cylinder before you drop any cash. You may be able to get a new one for the same price or maybe less than a replate or sleve job.
 
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