need some help on nailing the big doubles/triples out of corners

kawicam250

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Aug 7, 2006
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hey guys, im on riding a KX125 as most of you know. on the expert track at TNT there are a lot of big doubles and triples, as there should be. but, i cant seem to clear these jumps. the previous owner, who is now on a modded out 2004 KX250F, was riding this bike in 3rd in the corners and 4th hitting the jumps. my point is, is there any tips out there for riding through medium-sized/ abnormal-sized flat rutted turns very fast?
 

FruDaddy

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Aug 21, 2005
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This is the same bike that will run 90 isn't it? Gear down that bike so it will accelerate out of the corners. Then learn to seat bounce it. The previous owner was probably just faster in the corners.
 

kawicam250

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FruDaddy said:
This is the same bike that will run 90 isn't it? Gear down that bike so it will accelerate out of the corners. Then learn to seat bounce it. The previous owner was probably just faster in the corners.


yes, he was. my bike accelerates pretty good out of corners. i mean, i didnt mess with the gearing after a bought it, so he was running the same setup im running now. also, i just started riding on this track, so it'll take some getting used to. :bang: i used to seat bounce all the time on my old bike( CR80), but i didnt need to once i discovered the wonders of the MX track ;) . i just need some tips on riding through flat( and bermed) rutted turns.
 

HajiWasAPunk

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Aug 5, 2005
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First off, if you're concerned about clearing a jump after the turn, the bermed turn is probably the better option. It's usually the longer way around the track, and often not the fastest in (because you cover more ground than say an inside line) but you can carry more speed into the turn and by making the track longer you give yourself more time to get up to speed after it). For the big bermed turns, you should have a problem hitting them in 3rd but you may have to work up to. Concentrate on staying wide into the turn, braking as little as possible and getting on the gas just as you sit, hopefully just a quarter of the way into the turn.

The non-bermed turns are much harder to clear jumps after because they shorten the track up (meaning less room to get a run at it) and they are usually slower through the turn (they're tighter and don't have the berm to support you). You have to really lean the bike on these and brake harder coming into them.

Keep in mind that normally the inside line is faster once you get the hang of it, sometimes even if you can't clear the next jump.
 

CaptainObvious

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Slipping the clutch out of a turn is REQUIRED on a 125. Especially if there is a jump after the turn.
 

kawicam250

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Aug 7, 2006
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CaptainObvious said:
Slipping the clutch out of a turn is REQUIRED on a 125. Especially if there is a jump after the turn.

i have been trying to do that. i enter the turn in 2nd, and i slip it to get it up in the RPMs, then switch to 3rd. its just i need some tips on how to enter and exit flat rutted turns. :nod: :bang:
 

ellandoh

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using the rut as a berm.......i usually have to force myself to look further ahead than comes naturally to me. i also have to force myself to only concentrate on the current situation(turn) otherwise i'm worrying about the impending jump and dont get all the speed i could've out of the turn
 

FruDaddy

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kawicam250 said:
i have been trying to do that. i enter the turn in 2nd, and i slip it to get it up in the RPMs, then switch to 3rd. its just i need some tips on how to enter and exit flat rutted turns. :nod: :bang:
Now I see your problem, you said the other guy was taking the turn in 3rd and grabbing 4th coming out of it, you are only in second. Until you can take that turn in third (with enough speed to need 4th immediately after), don't worry about the jump, you'll only risk a lot of pain. Turns are more important than jumping anyway.
 

kawicam250

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FruDaddy said:
Now I see your problem, you said the other guy was taking the turn in 3rd and grabbing 4th coming out of it, you are only in second. Until you can take that turn in third (with enough speed to need 4th immediately after), don't worry about the jump, you'll only risk a lot of pain. Turns are more important than jumping anyway.

in that case, im going to need to know how to rut-ride really well :) :ride: .
 

HajiWasAPunk

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kawicam250 said:
in that case, im going to need to know how to rut-ride really well :) :ride: .

This is exactly why everyone says the races are won in the corners. Assuming you've got the stomach for MX, most everyone will learn to jump 40-50 feet or more, but having the skill to hit jumps out of the turns is a whole different deal.

I agree with FruDaddy though, until you can take the turn in 3rd, why even bother? Whatever gear he's hittin' in on your 250F you know you're gonna need on the 125. Save yourself the whiplash and whip the turn first!
 

kawicam250

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HajiWasAPunk said:
This is exactly why everyone says the races are won in the corners. Assuming you've got the stomach for MX, most everyone will learn to jump 40-50 feet or more, but having the skill to hit jumps out of the turns is a whole different deal.

I agree with FruDaddy though, until you can take the turn in 3rd, why even bother? Whatever gear he's hittin' in on your 250F you know you're gonna need on the 125. Save yourself the whiplash and whip the turn first!

thanx for the insight. the previous owner rode 3rd through the turns and 4th off the jumps on my 125. i dont have a 250F(yet), im looking to buy a 06-07 KX250F early next year.
 

FruDaddy

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Based on my performance today, I am not sure I should even give advice. Nonetheless, weight the outside peg, get up on the tank, ride the top corner of the seat, and get in the gas as early as possible. Oh, try to reach the front axle with your inside leg. Practice makes fast corners.
 

KX250Dad

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Dec 4, 2006
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I just posted my leg piece in the colar bone and hip bone in the neck in Nikki's colar bone forum so obviously I don't ride well... probably an age thing (know what you gotta do, by the time the body reacts the damage is done).

"rut riding" thanks, that's a new one to me... is a must for competitive growth, much less the jump in question. fru and the others are right... the speed outta the turn has to be there, be sure and I mean sure your not loosing hook-up (the right weight in the right palce), you've got to go in hotter than the 4f's and accelerate to keep the front up. They have the advantage, they can come in slower but they have the torque on bottom to roll out hard... not your case. RRR's gotta be up, just don't overrev...

Practice will take care of it... might want to try some ax stuff, tight/turn/jump get good their and turns will fall in place outdoor mx. Good luck... ps., bore to a 144... now your closer to equal to those 250F's and chances are they'll be posting here to catch you.
 

High Lord Gomer

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Kawicam250...riding some in the woods will help you do better at ruts. On the track if you don't hold a rut, it's no big deal, you're just slower. In the woods, if you don't hold the rut, you'll hit a tree. Woods riding will demand that you be more precise and that will help your track riding.
 

kawicam250

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Aug 7, 2006
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KX250Dad said:
I just posted my leg piece in the colar bone and hip bone in the neck in Nikki's colar bone forum so obviously I don't ride well... probably an age thing (know what you gotta do, by the time the body reacts the damage is done).

"rut riding" thanks, that's a new one to me... is a must for competitive growth, much less the jump in question. fru and the others are right... the speed outta the turn has to be there, be sure and I mean sure your not loosing hook-up (the right weight in the right palce), you've got to go in hotter than the 4f's and accelerate to keep the front up. They have the advantage, they can come in slower but they have the torque on bottom to roll out hard... not your case. RRR's gotta be up, just don't overrev...

Practice will take care of it... might want to try some ax stuff, tight/turn/jump get good their and turns will fall in place outdoor mx. Good luck... ps., bore to a 144... now your closer to equal to those 250F's and chances are they'll be posting here to catch you.

i was thinking about boring to a 144, until i started thinking "250F". i could do both ;) , but i dont have the $$$ right now. i'll try to go riding this Saturday and i'll let you know how i did :ride: . P.S. everytime i catch a 250F, or even a 450, on the track, it becomes a war and i usually win ;) .
 

kawicam250

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High Lord Gomer said:
Kawicam250...riding some in the woods will help you do better at ruts. On the track if you don't hold a rut, it's no big deal, you're just slower. In the woods, if you don't hold the rut, you'll hit a tree. Woods riding will demand that you be more precise and that will help your track riding.

i used to ride woods/trails until we started digging out a bunch of nails :| . the only place i ride right now is at TNT, and i usually like to track ride, but i'll take your advice. just in case you havent been to TNT in a while, the ATVs have made the trails pretty bad as far as ruts, so i should learn pretty quick ;) .
 

rjl250

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Oct 18, 2004
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Try looking farther through the turns. It seems simple but makes an enormous difference in both dirt and street riding. Once you're in the rut it seems to help you stay in it so you can give it more gas without worrying about popping out. Try it next time you hit the track. I guarantee you'll see a difference.
 

kawicam250

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Aug 7, 2006
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rjl250 said:
Try looking farther through the turns. It seems simple but makes an enormous difference in both dirt and street riding. Once you're in the rut it seems to help you stay in it so you can give it more gas without worrying about popping out. Try it next time you hit the track. I guarantee you'll see a difference.

hhhhmmm....... looking ahead :think: , reminds me of mowing the lawn ;) .
 

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