Hi, I just waisted my front sprocket on my KDX 220. I am a bit new in the game and am at a loss for what to buy to replace it. I see allot of different types of chains and sprockets and I want to buy something decent but do I need to spend 200$ or more to get what I need. Thanks.
New chain and sprockets
- Thread starter 1Steve
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Cactus Jim
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- Apr 1, 2002
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Hi 1Steve .....
I'm not sure how you were able to waste your front sprocket, but "Rocky Mountain" at http://www.rockmountainatv.com sells several brands, including Renthal, which are good and around $16 for the KDX. They come from 12 to 15 teeth. Lots of chains there to choose from, depending on what you want to spend, starting around $29 for a D.I.D.
Good Luck ......
I'm not sure how you were able to waste your front sprocket, but "Rocky Mountain" at http://www.rockmountainatv.com sells several brands, including Renthal, which are good and around $16 for the KDX. They come from 12 to 15 teeth. Lots of chains there to choose from, depending on what you want to spend, starting around $29 for a D.I.D.
Good Luck ......
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks Jim,
I'm not sure either. I think it is a problem with my chain. The last couple of rides I had to tighten it up a bit. I have been keeping an eye on it and lubercating it before every ride but this last ride I didn't check it out before hand and 10 miles into my ride the chain started skipping on the front sprocket. The tips of the sprocket broke off. I want to replace the chain and the rear sprocket as well.
I wouldn't mind getting a little more on the bottom end. Should I go to a smaller front sprocket or a larger rear sprocket?
I'm not sure either. I think it is a problem with my chain. The last couple of rides I had to tighten it up a bit. I have been keeping an eye on it and lubercating it before every ride but this last ride I didn't check it out before hand and 10 miles into my ride the chain started skipping on the front sprocket. The tips of the sprocket broke off. I want to replace the chain and the rear sprocket as well.
I wouldn't mind getting a little more on the bottom end. Should I go to a smaller front sprocket or a larger rear sprocket?
I recently replaced my sprockets and chain with new from MX South. (Sponser her on the left) Total cost was $116.00 I used steel JT Sprockets and an RK X ring chain. I have not had to adjust it yet after 600 miles on it. You can get a 13/48 combo that will give a slight boost vs stock 47 rear and still use the std 108 link chain. If given proper care this chain/sprocket combo will last you a couple years depending on how much you ride.
I have a 200/200 and I purchased a Sidewinder SSteel sprocket and their O-ring chain...after about 6 rides. Ill tell you I ride at least one or two days a week pretty much all year. I Still have the 50 tooth stainless sprocket and I replaced the chain once and the countershaft sprocket. The sprocket still doesnt look worn. I even ride occasionally in the sand.
canyncarvr
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
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Oh boy! More on chains!
I don't think you could spend $200 on a chain setup even if you wanted to. Well...maybe if you included a fredette guide and new slipper.
A DID gold x-ring will run you around $65...an RK x-ring about $20 less.
I ran an RK for two years (rode most every weekend), adjusted it once!
That was running a 12T CS sprocket. There is a lot of hoorah about 'that will wear too fast.' I found that to not be an issue.
A 12/47 will be CLOSE to a 13/50...but with a 12T you can use the stock length (108) chain. Can't do that with the 50 rear. AND...you can change back to a 13T if you want. Only takes a minute or two.
Not so with the 50T rear.
Tips broke off? OW!! Something going on there with incorrect tension, too much dirt, crummy chain...SOMEthing.....
I don't think you could spend $200 on a chain setup even if you wanted to. Well...maybe if you included a fredette guide and new slipper.
A DID gold x-ring will run you around $65...an RK x-ring about $20 less.
I ran an RK for two years (rode most every weekend), adjusted it once!
That was running a 12T CS sprocket. There is a lot of hoorah about 'that will wear too fast.' I found that to not be an issue.
A 12/47 will be CLOSE to a 13/50...but with a 12T you can use the stock length (108) chain. Can't do that with the 50 rear. AND...you can change back to a 13T if you want. Only takes a minute or two.
Not so with the 50T rear.
Tips broke off? OW!! Something going on there with incorrect tension, too much dirt, crummy chain...SOMEthing.....
About half the teeth on my 50T Renthal(aluminum) just broke off the other day. I've probably had it ten months, but haven't ridden my bike in about 3 1/2 months and only once or twice a month before that. The sprocket wasn't too worn, but had seen better days. The teeth hadn't hooked yet. Although, the track I was riding on was sand, so I was kinda hard on it. I keep about a 3 finger gap in the chain. I just priced a Renthal o-ring chain at my local dealer and it was $116 and a Renthal sprocket set(13-50) was $89.99. So, yes, you can pay $200 for chain and sprockets. I ordered mine from Rockymountainmc instead --titax front and rear (steel) and RK o-ring, and paid just over $100 including shipping. I figured I'd try something a little stronger than the aluminum, considering where I will be riding now. Maybe the cheaper stuff will hold up better than the expensive stuff.
canyncarvr
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
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OK..you CAN spend over $200. I should have qualified that with, 'if you really really WANT to, you can.' Sheesh...$116 for a chain??!! That's insane.
I wouldn't ever run aluminum. I've had rotten experience with it.
greenbean:
a 200/200 is a twin cylinder?? ;) Maybe it's an RD we're talkin' about?
...just kidding.....
I wouldn't ever run aluminum. I've had rotten experience with it.
greenbean:
a 200/200 is a twin cylinder?? ;) Maybe it's an RD we're talkin' about?
...just kidding.....
ANYONE EVER TRY A 14 TOOTH ON THE FRONT? I FIND MYSELF SHIFTING BETWEEN 2ND AND 3RD CONSTANTLY WHILE RIDING TIGHT TRAILS. I WOULD LIKE A LITTLE MORE SPEED OUT OF SECOND. I HAVEN'T COME ACROSS ANYTHING I CAN'T CLIMB IN FIRST, SO I'M WONDERING HOW MUCH IT WILL HURT IN CLIMBING POWER WHEN I ABSOLUTLY NEED IT. I'VE DONE ALL THE BASIC MODS ( AIR BOX LID, GOLD SERIES PIPE, FMF SILENCER, BOYSEN REEDS, NEW PISTON RINGS, CYLINDER )
I LIKE THE IDEA OF NOT HAVING TO HAVE A DIFFERENT LENGTH CHAIN FOR USING A 12T, 13T, OR 14T. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
I LIKE THE IDEA OF NOT HAVING TO HAVE A DIFFERENT LENGTH CHAIN FOR USING A 12T, 13T, OR 14T. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
The lifespan of ANY sprocket is relative to the condition of the chain and it's pitch. This includes aluminum. If you keep your chain cleaned/lubed/adjusted proper, an aluminum sprocket will last and last.
Measuring and keeping up on the pitch change of a chain is the key to making your sprockets last. When a chain has stretched beyond 2% of original length, it will start to deform sprockets. The harder your sprocket, that harder it will be on your chain as it approaches 3% growth, meaning that once the chain reaches 2% it can be a quick downhill slide to 3% with a hard sprocket making you think that the sprocket was just better quality than the chain was. However, if the same chain were ran on an aluminum, the time between 2% and 3% growth will be longer...BUT once the chain gets to 3% it will show on the aluminum sprocket soon. Folks who change out thier chain at 1-2% growth shouldn't experience much deformation of any sprocket.
Measuring and keeping up on the pitch change of a chain is the key to making your sprockets last. When a chain has stretched beyond 2% of original length, it will start to deform sprockets. The harder your sprocket, that harder it will be on your chain as it approaches 3% growth, meaning that once the chain reaches 2% it can be a quick downhill slide to 3% with a hard sprocket making you think that the sprocket was just better quality than the chain was. However, if the same chain were ran on an aluminum, the time between 2% and 3% growth will be longer...BUT once the chain gets to 3% it will show on the aluminum sprocket soon. Folks who change out thier chain at 1-2% growth shouldn't experience much deformation of any sprocket.
I use a 12t front sprocket and ek 520 o-ring chain. The chain is about $45. and the sprocket is a renthal, was 15.99 from rockymountain. Have no signs of abnormal wear and the bike has much better tractible power on the bottom end. Be sure if you get a chain with the clip master link you set the open end of the clip facing the back of the bike while on the top side of the sprocket. Then watch it for wear.
Lew
Lew
Possilbly a binding O-ring chain. In heavy mud applications I've totally sworn off anything other than a plain ole chain. I had an ATC250R (wicked beast!) for mud riding once upon a time, and had an o-ring chain bind, trash a sprocket, and lock the rear casuing me to crash in the process. IMO, You can just never get all the mud out of them.
Heed the advice from the above posts, and refresh your drivetrain. Solvent clean, and oil you o-ring chain before each ride.
Heed the advice from the above posts, and refresh your drivetrain. Solvent clean, and oil you o-ring chain before each ride.
