KX'er

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Oct 12, 2000
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I'm trying to set up my '00 KX250 so that the suspnsion is half way decent. First off, I'm pretty sure that the shock spring is a progessive spring, and I would benifit by going to a straight rate. Is this correct? If I do change it, do I need to change the fork springs as well? They are the correct rate for my wieght, but I am not sure if they are progressive springs or not, and if I would benifit by changing to straight rate if they are progressive. Which leads me to another question: How difficult is it to change the fork springs? Would I have to empty the oil?

I don't really want to mess with my forks myself, since I've never done it before, nor seen it done. I called one place to see how much it would be for them to change the oil and seals and they quoted me $150. This seems a little high to me. What is a fair price?
 

bclapham

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Nov 5, 2001
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KX.er, its not hard to change the springs and oil and $150 is way out there, you could get a revalve at some places for that!

i am in san diego and would be happy to help you do it, its really not that hard. If you want to take it somewhere, then try clairemont cycle supply on clairmont mesa blvd. Jamie is a good guy and fair with prices i expect he can get hold of the springs you desire also, but get the advice on here for the best rates etc before you try to order them!
 

bigred455

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You are correct the 00 came with the progressive spring in the rear.I weigh 185lbs and I went with a straight weight 5.0 BIG DIFFERENCE WAY BETTER ,than the progressive.The front springs are .43 stock straight rate. I use the same rate in the front,but this is my 3rd set they sack out.You really need the check out a spring weight chart for the correct springs,but you did mention that the fork springs are the correct rate for you.How used is the bike, If it has time on it you should atleast change the fluid.A manual is useful.If you have any questions feel free to ask me. ARE YOU STOKED I AM STOKED. :scream:
 
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KX'er

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Oct 12, 2000
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Cool, sounds good. I think I will switch to the 5.0 straight as well. I am going to change the oil in my forks, does this need to be done for the shock? What springs do you put in your bike? i.e. manufacturer and where did you get them?

Thanks for the help guys!
 

MCP486

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Dec 26, 2001
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$150 for fork seals and oil change? Thats pretty high! Most shops charge about $75 for a rebuild, and then just add parts (such as fork seals, which are about $14). Then don't just pump the oil out and re-fill it, they dissassemble the forks and clean them as well. As far as spring manufacturers go, Eibach has the best reputation as far as I'm concerned, and I believe they also make springs for companies such as Factory Connection and Race Tech.

Matt
 

KX'er

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Oct 12, 2000
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I'm thinking of ordering a 5.0 shock spring from the MX-TECH site.. How good are these springs and would it be straight rate or progressive? Do I need to specify that I want a Straight rate spring?
 

MCP486

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Dec 26, 2001
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I am sure MX-Tech sells good springs, and a 5.0 spring is a straight-rate spring, so you don't need to specify differently.

Matt
 

KX'er

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Oct 12, 2000
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I ended up ordering a 5.0kg/mm shock spring from Race Tech, and having my forks revalved by Precision Concepts (local) for $189 out the door. I am going to install everything tonight, will post with the results..
 

KX'er

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Oct 12, 2000
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Yep, Precision Concepts is in El Cajon, http://www.precisionconceptsracing.com/

I got everything installed but have some questions about the shock:
When I finally got the race sag set for 95mm, my free sag was at 66mm. This would indicate that the spring is way too stiff right? It is a 5.0kg/mm spring which is appropriate for my weight (180 lbs). I don't get it. I used the L1- (L2 + L3)/2 method that came with the shock. How do you guys do it? Does the shock need to settle?

I'm thinking of just setting the free sag to 25mm and taking it riding, and check the race sag when I get back...
 

bigred455

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HA,I set my race tech rear sping race sag at 95mm,My static is 25mm I WEIGH 185.Are you sure you are doing this correctly,Sitting on the bike with a proper riding position while someone holds the bike and someone measures.Make sure who ever is doing the measuring,tell them to double check on the mark they made near the axle bolt. Yes that does suggest you need a softer spring,but I would get them to do it over,that spring rate should work. It is pretty funny, I drive my girlfriend crazy she does my race sag with me,I get her to check it about 7 times.Come on HONEY we need to do my race sag,all you hear is a big sigh then ok.How she puts up with me and my bike,shes an angel... ARE YOU GUYS STOKED I AM STOKED.. :scream: :scream:
 

KX'er

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Oct 12, 2000
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I'm pretty sure that I am doing it right. Funny, my girlfriend helped me with mine. She didn't have as much fun as I did though. We measured several times....

If spring is the correct one for my weight, and I set the static sag at 25mm, then I should be right on the money for my race sag, correct?

Also, in the kawi manual it says to install the spring on the shock with the close coils up. This would only apply to progressive spings, right? On the race tech spring the coils are the same distance apart. Also, the spring would only fit the collars one way, if I tried it the other way it wouldn't work.
Is it possible to install a straight rate spring upside down?
 

bigred455

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No,the spring will only go on one way,the stock collar,and the extra collar race tech supplies,will only fit one end of the spring.
 

KX'er

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Oct 12, 2000
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I am going to take apart my linkage and make sure all is well there, To ensure it isn't binding. Then I'll just set my static sag at 25-30mm and take it out and putt around, and see where my race sag ends up at after I get back.

bclapham, I sent you a pm.

Thanks!
 

KX'er

Member
Oct 12, 2000
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Ok, figured it out. One of the carb vent tubes was pinched between the linkage tie-rod and the bearing block thingy (for lack of proper nomenclature) which causing the linkage to bind and thew everything off. I now have my race sag @ 95mm and static sag @ 25mm. Just about perfect.

BTW, Night and day difference. The bike now feels much better. Handles like a dream and jumps are smooth as silk. I think the shock spring made more of a difference then the fork re-valve, but the forks are much better also. Slap-down landings are still kinda painfull though, any ideas on how to prevent the wrist-jarring crunch when this happens?

One thing I noticed is I get way less rear wheel traction with this set-up. The rear tire spins alot. I'm sure that this is mostly do to my tire being worn. If I set the race sag to 100mm vs. 95mm (after I get a new tire) will this help?

Thanks alot guys!
 

bigred455

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Originally posted by KX'er
Ok, figured it out. One of the carb vent tubes was pinched between the linkage tie-rod and the bearing block thingy (for lack of proper nomenclature) which causing the linkage to bind and thew everything off. I now have my race sag @ 95mm and static sag @ 25mm. Just about perfect.

BTW, Night and day difference. The bike now feels much better. Handles like a dream and jumps are smooth as silk. I think the shock spring made more of a difference then the fork re-valve, but the forks are much better also. Slap-down landings are still kinda painfull though, any ideas on how to prevent the wrist-jarring crunch when this happens?

One thing I noticed is I get way less rear wheel traction with this set-up. The rear tire spins alot. I'm sure that this is mostly do to my tire being worn. If I set the race sag to 100mm vs. 95mm (after I get a new tire) will this help?...

Is your front slapping back real quick or is it just really harsh on flat landings? .
yes,100mm race sag will give you better traction vs 95mm.Try the 95mm a little longer,but back off the compression couple clicks at a time.

Thanks alot guys!
 

KX'er

Member
Oct 12, 2000
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When I land on my rear wheel, the front slams down pretty hard. Flat landings aren't bad.

Should I back off the low or high speed compression?
 

bclapham

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Nov 5, 2001
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Originally posted by marcusgunby
Most forks will hurt your hands if you land like that-try landing front wheel 1st-its a lot nicer.

ive got that problem also, but it sounds so much easier when you say it marcus!

KX'er i am hopefully riding this saturday (dont know where yet), do you want to meet up or even carpool?
 

bclapham

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Nov 5, 2001
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so now ive managed to keep my feet on the pegs, your are telling me to move them and hit the brake! That sounds easier when you say it also! If i land it would that mean its a brucey-bonus?

ive been telling myself to do that for i while, the boss is away again this week so i am off to Elsinore tommorow and will be sure to give it a try!
 

marcusgunby

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Jan 9, 2000
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Bruce i have once tried using the front brake while in the air-that really feels weird.You will be amazed how much and fast the bike angle can alter by locking the rear wheel-just pull the clutch in when you do it and get ready to let it out and panic rev if things go belly up:)
 

KX'er

Member
Oct 12, 2000
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Hey bruce, Unfortunately, I don't have a day off until monday, but then I am on my way up north until the 30th. After that I am definately down for some riding If you don't mind slow people (serious). I got your number, and I'll probably pm you when I get back.
 
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