New (to me) KDX. What manual(s) to buy, and other questions?

[XR750]

Hello Team KDX,

Ater much internet research, I decided that a KDX 200 would be a good first trail bike for my 14y/o son. We found a 1995 that had been parked for at least the last 2-3 years and looked OK/ran pretty good. The good: new tires and 51T sprocket, Renthal bars, Acerbis handguards, o-ring chain, fredette chain guide, Boysen RAD valve, FMF pipe and silencer and always run on Bel-Ray MC-1 @ 50:1. It started on the second kick, wasn't too smoky and had pretty smooth acceleration. The not so good is no maintenance other than checking fluids, air filter, etc., the air box cover, owners manual and factory tool kit (I assume that's what the little bag is for) were MIA, slight rear wheel bearing play, worn brake pads, bent brake/clutch levers, and the resident mouse had to be evicted from the air box. Good or bad, I paid $1K which included a near new HJC helmet and some cheap boots.

So, now that we've looked it over, changed the trans fluid(and decided that Dad should get one too), the plan is to let the boy ride over the summer, and perform some overdue maintenance this winter.

Questions:
1) Is it worth buying an owners manual or should I just get the service manual (assuming the service manual has a maintenance schedule).

2) The FMF pipe doesn't say anything other than FMF GOLD. Could this be an old one and possibly made before they had woods and desert versions?

3) Everyone talks about a KIPS valve rattle. I'm new to 2-strokes, but a very competant home mechanic, and I don't hear any unusual noises. Is that good or bad? What should I check?

4) If compression checks out OK, how does one decide when to do the top end?

5) This winter, I plan on draining and and refilling the brakes, forks, and cooling system, and re-lubing, the head, wheel, and rear suspension bearings. What coolant and grease do you guys reco? Is there anything else that I should look at?

6) What brand/type of brake pads does everyone like?

7) Headlight is very dim, like an old flashlight. It's an aftermarket replacement, UFO Explorer, which I couldn't find on their website. Any ideas other than corroded grounds and connections? Also, it has two bulbs, and only one is in use.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts and input.

 

[mudpack]

I only have time right now to answer the most important question:
get the factory service manual above all else.

Mud

 

[glad2ride]

Congratulations on your purchase! Here are some short answers.

airbox lid removal is a common modification to try to get more air/power

factory tool kit was one spoke/spark plug wrench

just get the service manual

pipe IS an older model, but still fine

no worries on the rattle

top end maintenance is commonly based off last time you did it... since you don't know when it was, you are just being hopeful until you replace it yourself (about $150 or so after Wiseco piston kit, top end bearing, top end gasket kit, fresh coolant (50/50 coolant/distilled water)

stock wattage output is around 40 watts, aftermarket usually needs 55 and therefore looks dim, stock was 12v 30 watt... www.rickystator.com to rewind stock stator to output high wattage for aftermarket lights

Bel-Ray waterproof grease

change / rebuild shock as well... it's 14 years old, about to turn 15 with 2010 models coming out

Good luck

 

[sr5bidder]

+1 on the Factory service manual

I recomend using a marine grade water proof grease (but all grease resists water right)

I use 50/50 premix coolant (dont forget to unscrew the left radiator top plug to vent air while filling)

you can save some money on the bearings by getting them from a bearings and drive warehouse or on ebay you can usually get 4 bearings for the price of one at the kaw shop.

for the levers i recomend asv levers they are comfy and have warranty against breakage (though 70 bucks each)

some of us use ford type F transmission fluid. in the gear box .I like to fill it to the top of the window while on the side stand (over fill)

you should also check the spokes for tightness

take the exhuast off and use a flashlight to peak in the cylinder look for wear and scratches

 

[porterdog]

Ditto the others on:
a) congrats- great machines!
b) Factory service manual. Source: repairmanual.com

Grease: my fave:

Abt. $5 at Home Depot (!).

Maintenance: I would NOT wait to tear apart the swingarm, linkage, and steering stem bearings. Yes, doing them now will cause some tough downtime right after purchase, but if any of those bearings can be saved a) it's more likely before a new bike rider thrashes the hell out of his new toy, and b) if you do salvage them, you'll save a metric buttload of money.

 

[XR750]

Thanks for the responses. You guys are convincing me to do the linkage lube ASAP, and it is supposed to rain tomorrow. So, while waiting to get my hands on a manual, what are we talking about: support bike, undo chain and brake caliper, undo/remove link bolts, remove "rocker" arm, remove swingarm pivot bolt, repack bearings, grease bushings, and re-assemble? More? Less?

 

[reepicheep]

I got a 95 that had been badly abused, and my neighbor (old dirtbike guy) finally guilted me into pulling the top end. Sure enough, the cylinder was scored and the (stock) piston was cracked.

I would say checking it then saved me a lot of work and expense, but the previous owner stripped the splines of the output shaft, so I had to split the cases anyway. But it almost saved me a lot of work and expense. And if that skirt let go, who knows if the crank would have been trashed in the "event" as well.

You don't even have to mess with the head / head gasket... I think you can pull the whole cylinder and head off as an intact assembly. Gotta love two strokes!

 

[motodr9]

New to you bike

Get a manual, then replace the wheel bearings, and lube and/or replace the linkage. Take a look at the piston. At least pull the head and pipe and have a look in there. You don't want to damage the cylinder when you could have just replaced the rings, or at worst the piston, rings, etc. The long push back to the truck can be avoided.

 

[sr5bidder]

sokbrake (ebay seller) has pads for 9.99 and does honor the additional item shipping

I bought front for the kdx and fr + rr for the xt 225 all for $38 shipped.

d2moto (do a google) has some decent wide pegs for $14.99

I would concentrate on removing the rear shock first the do the suspension links (dog bones) they are at the bottom and run horizonally.

by then you should have an idea as to what condition the linkages are in, then you can remove the swingarm and clean/inspect those bearings. if anything looks dry and rusty you may aswell stop and put it back together and ride while you wait for the parts/money rebuild...remember if things are in bad shape you may want to order the shafts/bolts that run through the bearings.

when I installed my kouba links (lowering) I found the bearings to be in excellent condition and really clean so I justed packed grease in generously and reassembled..you may find that your bike still has grease coating and if the seals did thier work be really clean in that case I would just pack more grease into the bearings.

the way i test is take the bolt that came out of the pivot ,stick it in the bearing and spin with my fingers and feel for gritty drag...of course if the bolt has notable wear then you can bet the bearings are suffering to, but these are not high speed areas and with propper seals and maintance they should not go bad...I see alot of people use a pressure washer way to aggressivly in suspension linkage/swingarm area which eventually leads to the grease breaking down and bearings rusting

 

[lemmy]

I bought a KDX last July. I have found the linkage bearings for the shock to be in horrible shape and needed to be replaced. I also regreased and put new seals on the swingarm bearings. The front wheel bearing was almost completely locked up and the steering bearings were in horrible shape. Also, the fork oil was really old. I also had problems with the carb (someone had soaked it and the manual says not to remove the jet block...well the jet block has a rubber gasket in there and soaking the carb can ruin it), the kips valve was installed incorrectly, and a few things weren't installed correctly on the clutch. I still need to replace the hydraulic fluid and rebuild the rear shock. I recommend the factory manual (I got mine from repairmanual.com, but i think motosport has them too) and the online manual at cyclepedia is nice as well. Great pictures.

 

[mudpack]

One thing no one has replied to: brake pads.
Dirt bikes operate in a very low-traction environment. Pads are not stressed and finesse is non-existant. Put the cheapest pads you can find on it and don't give 'em another thought; they'll work as well as the most expensive (probably the stock pads?)

 

[sr5bidder]

Mud
check post #9 I did speak of pads and cheap ones too
I lost my fronts in a two day mud fest. the new cheap ones are doing fine :cool:

 

[mudpack]

Sorry, bidder, I missed that sentence....