Oil Drain Bolt

[mandark1967]

When I went to finally remove my drain bolt from my YZ250, it stripped. I used one of those sockets that Sears sells for removing stripped bolts and it worked great.

Now that I have it out and have bought a replacement bolt, how do I prevent the bolt from seizing again to the point it strips out when I try to remove it?

Would a simple 1/16th inch thick aluminum washer work? or should I use something like permatex black compound (not on the threads, just on the underside of the bolt head)?

 

[76GMC1500]

Put anti-seize or moly paste on it. Don't tighten it so much (especially if you put a lube on the threads). Change the oil more often. A single washer works fine. A sealant will just make a mess. If there is a gasket, it doesn't need sealant. I avoid silicones at all costs because they are hard to clean up and ball up which makes a mess everywhere. Silicones definately should not be used as a thread sealant, anyways. Use something like Permatex High Tack or Aviation Form-A-Gasket if you need a thread sealant.

 

[Jaybird]

What you really need to remember is; "Lefty loosey, righty tighty..."

 

[biglou]

OEM Yamaha drain bolts are made from butter, from my experience. I'd replace it with a magnetic aftermarket one from Moose or Zip-Ty. There should be a copper crush washer between the bolt head flange and the case also, I think. You can check over at dgy.com and look at their parts breakdown to verify. Without that washer, the metal bolt gets galled up and nearly impossible to remove with the flange dug into the softer alum. case.