I am converting my 99 KDX220 to 96 KX125 front suspension. In doing so, it is necessary to use the KDX stem. I find that the KDX stem in the KX clamp is a snug fit but doesn't need a press to assemble. I think a thin piece of aluminum, like a soda can about a half or quarter wrap would do the trick, but I'm wondering and my question is: will the ring clip on the bottom and the bearing pressed on from the top be sufficiant? It's not like this is so loose it rattles, just loose enough to assemble without a press. With the ring clip, the pressed on bearing and the bolting action holding everything together, I'm thinking that shimming is not necessary. Any thoughts or suggestions. Thanks in advance.
Pressed stem to lower triple clamp?
- Thread starter skipro3
- Start date
skipro -
if it's "loose enought to install without a press" - it's TOO loose!
Please, for your own safety, DON'T try and put a piece of soda can in there to shim up the difference. It HAS to be a press fit or you're going to ahve real problems.
If you're serious about this conversion, do it right and find a machine shop that can make a steering stem that will work the way it's supposed to.
Be safe, buddy!
if it's "loose enought to install without a press" - it's TOO loose!
Please, for your own safety, DON'T try and put a piece of soda can in there to shim up the difference. It HAS to be a press fit or you're going to ahve real problems.
If you're serious about this conversion, do it right and find a machine shop that can make a steering stem that will work the way it's supposed to.
Be safe, buddy!
- Thread starter
- #3
Here are options and the solution I ended up with.
1. Bore out lower triple, sleeve the stem, and press. $120 (expensive)
2. Lathe down the origional KX stem for the KDX top bearing and nut. $65 (aluminum stem could be weakened too much.)
3. Knurl the stem, and press. $60 (Steel stem very hard, might eventually tear out aluminum triple.)
4. My route: Knurl the lower triple inside. $15 (Stronger than knurling the stem, this is what my machine shop recommends and does this to aluminum pistons for the wrist pins)
Knurling reshapes the metal into ridges and valleys without removing any metal. I am assured by the machine shop folks that this will be as strong as press when used with Locktite green.
I pass this on for anyone else looking to perform a mod like this. I will report back after a few rides and let you know how it holds up.
Also, Machine shop said to shim was not a good idea, not enough room, that is when he suggested the bore and sleeve. However the bore and sleeve weakens the lower triple but impossable to tell how much.
1. Bore out lower triple, sleeve the stem, and press. $120 (expensive)
2. Lathe down the origional KX stem for the KDX top bearing and nut. $65 (aluminum stem could be weakened too much.)
3. Knurl the stem, and press. $60 (Steel stem very hard, might eventually tear out aluminum triple.)
4. My route: Knurl the lower triple inside. $15 (Stronger than knurling the stem, this is what my machine shop recommends and does this to aluminum pistons for the wrist pins)
Knurling reshapes the metal into ridges and valleys without removing any metal. I am assured by the machine shop folks that this will be as strong as press when used with Locktite green.
I pass this on for anyone else looking to perform a mod like this. I will report back after a few rides and let you know how it holds up.
Also, Machine shop said to shim was not a good idea, not enough room, that is when he suggested the bore and sleeve. However the bore and sleeve weakens the lower triple but impossable to tell how much.
marcusgunby
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- Jan 9, 2000
- 6,450
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You can by very thin shims(like a feeler guage) that go on the outside of wheel bearings and other industrial bearings, when they spin in the housings.However i dont know where to get them.
jmics19067
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jan 22, 2002
- 2,097
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Is it possible to get a different sized bearing that will work for the top?
would pressing round stock into the hole of the kx stem reinforce it enough to machine for the top bearing?
personally things like this scare me I would seriously look into a fresh piece of round stock cut to what you need. Money well spent for piece of mind in my opinion.
would pressing round stock into the hole of the kx stem reinforce it enough to machine for the top bearing?
personally things like this scare me I would seriously look into a fresh piece of round stock cut to what you need. Money well spent for piece of mind in my opinion.
- Thread starter
- #6
Is it possible to get a different sized bearing that will work for the top?
ANSWER: No, here's why: The top bearing on the KDX is part # 30005 and is American standard. The top bearing on the KX is 320/28 and is a metric standard. You would need a bearing that had an inside dimension that is metric and an outside dimension that is english / american. It doesn't exsist.
would pressing round stock into the hole of the kx stem reinforce it enough to machine for the top bearing?
ANSWER: It is possable to machine but this is aluminum and not that strong anyway. That is why is is such a large diameter over the steel. Reinforcing by filling the center with a pressed fill would distort the top thread needed for the top triple clamp and the nut would not go on.
personally things like this scare me I would seriously look into a fresh piece of round stock cut to what you need. Money well spent for piece of mind in my opinion.
ANSWER: True but money needlessly spent. The purpose of the press fit on the triple clamp to stem is to keep it from turning and to accomidate the shape of the piece. If you are worried about the thing comming apart after knurling then pressing, you could drill and put a roll pin in there. That is how it used to be done anyway. It won't come apart knurled and pressed. My machinist has done this on many custom road race bikes that deal with alot more stress than a dirt bike. He assures me that none have ever come apart or showed signs of problems.
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ANSWER: No, here's why: The top bearing on the KDX is part # 30005 and is American standard. The top bearing on the KX is 320/28 and is a metric standard. You would need a bearing that had an inside dimension that is metric and an outside dimension that is english / american. It doesn't exsist.
would pressing round stock into the hole of the kx stem reinforce it enough to machine for the top bearing?
ANSWER: It is possable to machine but this is aluminum and not that strong anyway. That is why is is such a large diameter over the steel. Reinforcing by filling the center with a pressed fill would distort the top thread needed for the top triple clamp and the nut would not go on.
personally things like this scare me I would seriously look into a fresh piece of round stock cut to what you need. Money well spent for piece of mind in my opinion.
ANSWER: True but money needlessly spent. The purpose of the press fit on the triple clamp to stem is to keep it from turning and to accomidate the shape of the piece. If you are worried about the thing comming apart after knurling then pressing, you could drill and put a roll pin in there. That is how it used to be done anyway. It won't come apart knurled and pressed. My machinist has done this on many custom road race bikes that deal with alot more stress than a dirt bike. He assures me that none have ever come apart or showed signs of problems.
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- Thread starter
- #9
The front can be made to work with the stock rear. KX front forks are about an inch longer. Move up the clamps is one method and there is still enough clearance to not hit the fender before bottoming. I adjusted the preload to sag an extra inch. It makes for a plush ride and matches the rear spring. If you wish to keep the front stiffer, then go 1 full turn on the rear spring nut tighter for more preload at a time until balanced again. The ONLY difference in the rear shock from a KDX and a KX is the length of 1/2 inch in favor of the KX and the spring rate. A KX125 is 4.6kg, a KX250 is 4.8kg and a KDX is 5.0kg. I'm guessing the KX is an overall lighter bike and has the softer spring because of that. Also, the spring rate on the KX's may be stiffer on the new models. These #'s were from 1996 spec at www.buykawasaki.com
No kit from me. By the time I got all the parts together, I would have to charge too much due to all the shipping fees. This is very cost effective if you resell your old parts like I did. I spent $400 for parts and sold my old ones for $250. So for only $150 plus $25 machine shop work and shipping, I got my front end. That is cheaper than a re-valve, let alone heavier springs as well. Also, my riding bud used the forks / wheel / brake from a YZ and the tripleclamp from a 1999 KX. His springs are a little stiffer than mine, but otherwise, the same results. Honda forks will work too and there are lots of Honda's being parted out brand new because Quad folks are wanting the motors only for hop-ups. Check eBay, grab a caliper for measuring, and have fun experimenting on those days you can't ride. I had a blast doing mine.
No kit from me. By the time I got all the parts together, I would have to charge too much due to all the shipping fees. This is very cost effective if you resell your old parts like I did. I spent $400 for parts and sold my old ones for $250. So for only $150 plus $25 machine shop work and shipping, I got my front end. That is cheaper than a re-valve, let alone heavier springs as well. Also, my riding bud used the forks / wheel / brake from a YZ and the tripleclamp from a 1999 KX. His springs are a little stiffer than mine, but otherwise, the same results. Honda forks will work too and there are lots of Honda's being parted out brand new because Quad folks are wanting the motors only for hop-ups. Check eBay, grab a caliper for measuring, and have fun experimenting on those days you can't ride. I had a blast doing mine.