pyrofreak

Member
Apr 9, 2003
819
0
Ok, well here goes, this will more than likely be long. My cousin (Glen) just got a PW80 (around a '93 or so) and he loves it. He had an older bike (late70's) that looks something like a half the size of a KE100. A smaller kawasaki with a metal gas tank and rear dual shocks. The shifter was a pair of vice grips, so he was stoked when he got the PW. Hes about 9 years old but isnt very expirenced. He absolutely loves the PW, but my uncle mentioned somehting to me about any way to make it so he can grow with the bike a bit before getting a hard hitting 2 stroke, like a KX60. I want to get him a list of mods that he and Glen can do together. My uncles real mechanical, but not with bikes, mainly snowmobiles and tractors. Glen hasnt messed around with his go-kart since getting his PW, im sure we have another one hooked!! Alot of the mods i found from searching are pretty striaght foward and cheap, namely, FREE, but not very into detial. I was wondering if someone that has expirence with these mods could type up a list of the reasonably cheap mods and a short how-to description for them. I know that they still have the old kawasaki and could maybe see if the gearing and possibly the metal foot pegs would fit, seeing as the motor is now seized, thanks to a drunken idiotic adult (older cousin that wont be named) that like to ride kids' bikes. But if anyone could type up something that i could print out so the two of them could work on it together that would be great. This kid is really lucky, my uncle does all sorts of stuff with him like scouting and all that, and its going to be a little while until he gets a better bike, so i really want to help him out.


1) Remove the rubber snorkel on the airbox, this allows it to rev much better.

2) Raise the clip on the needle in the carburetor on notch.
(could you explain what this is and where to find it for them??)

3) Remove the exhaust silencer and cut off the restrictive cone piece on the end of it.

4) Redrill a new rear shock mounting hole 1" further back on the frame, this will raise the back of the bike up and improve handling.

5) Raise the fork oil height to 6.5" from the top of the tube. Make sure the forks are compressed and springs are removed when doing this.

6) Add a 1/2" preload spacer to the top of the fork spring. (PVC tubing works well). ( Exactly how do you do this???)

7) Remove some of the steel balls in the centrifugal clutch to raise the engagement rpm. (Leave an open space in between each one and distribute them evenly). (a bit self-explainitory, but not to a kid)

8) Change the gearing (We are in the process of finding the right setup).



2) remove the oil pump, block off the hole in the cases & the hole fitting on the carb, and use pre-mix. ( block with what, and the ratio to use?? what would this accomplish anyhow?)

4) remove the air filter housing & clamp a large K&N filter to the carb.

2) fabricate 1" long tubular spacers to extend the forks & increase travel. These are installed (with 1" longer allen bolts) between the bottom of the damping rods in the forks and the lower fork legs. The spacers need to fit tightly around the allen bolts (to keep the spacers centered) and need to have the same outside diameter as the damper rods. The spacers will also need to have grooves (8-10 of them)ground in their outside, from the top (damping rod end) to within 1/4" of the bottom - this lets oil pass (otherwise, the fork will hydraulically lock before bottoming.


PS, any pics would be helpful. I mentioned about getting a book, but there isnt a yamaha dealer anywhere really close and they dont have the internet. Glen's not to fond of reading anything but comic books either, so a few pictures might peak his interest more. I'm pysched that he like bikes so much. I actually think it started the same way my neighbor got one for his little girl to ride when she gets a little bigger, points across the street and says proudly well she's got a dirtbike why cant i have one?, it looks like fun!


Thank You

~Jamie
 

Jasle

Sponsoring Member
Nov 27, 2001
1,358
0
pyrofreak said:
1) Remove the rubber snorkel on the airbox, this allows it to rev much better.

Have not tried this...my bet is it just makes it noisier. Won't matter if you use the k&N filter like listed below.

2) Raise the clip on the needle in the carburetor on notch.
(could you explain what this is and where to find it for them??)

The needle is inside the carb. take the top off with the one screw and you'll see the needle hanging out from the carb cap. This leans the bike out at mid throttle.

3) Remove the exhaust silencer and cut off the restrictive cone piece on the end of it.


This negates the flame trap. remove too much an you lose bottom end power but gain top end power.


4) Redrill a new rear shock mounting hole 1" further back on the frame, this will raise the back of the bike up and improve handling.

Yup many do this.

5) Raise the fork oil height to 6.5" from the top of the tube. Make sure the forks are compressed and springs are removed when doing this.

description in the manual on how to do this

6) Add a 1/2" preload spacer to the top of the fork spring. (PVC tubing works well). ( Exactly how do you do this???)


Take the fork cap off. First cut a piece of pvc pipe that will fit inside the fork 1/2" long. Set a flat washer on top of the spring. then put the pvc spacer in and put the cap back on. this increases the spring preload.

7) Remove some of the steel balls in the centrifugal clutch to raise the engagement rpm. (Leave an open space in between each one and distribute them evenly). (a bit self-explainitory, but not to a kid) get the manual and check out the clutch maintenance section. once you see it its pretty easy.

8) Change the gearing (We are in the process of finding the right setup).

can't help you much here. smaller rear sprocket means more topend but less bottom end.

2) remove the oil pump, block off the hole in the cases & the hole fitting on the carb, and use pre-mix. ( block with what, and the ratio to use?? what would this accomplish anyhow?)

Some make a metal plug to fit in the hole. easier to remove the pump then take the drive gear off of the shaft then put it back in. Plug the hole in the carb where the tube comes from the oil injector with either a rubber vacuum cap(get at autozone or checker) or some epoxy. I'd use 32:1 mixture.

4) remove the air filter housing & clamp a large K&N filter to the carb.

If you do this you'll have to rejet with bigger jets in the bottom of the carb.

2) fabricate 1" long tubular spacers to extend the forks & increase travel. These are installed (with 1" longer allen bolts) between the bottom of the damping rods in the forks and the lower fork legs. The spacers need to fit tightly around the allen bolts (to keep the spacers centered) and need to have the same outside diameter as the damper rods. The spacers will also need to have grooves (8-10 of them)ground in their outside, from the top (damping rod end) to within 1/4" of the bottom - this lets oil pass (otherwise, the fork will hydraulically lock before bottoming.

no help here sorry.

Thank You

~Jamie
 
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