rear rim swap
- Thread starter DTH
- Start date
2wheelsorless
Member
- Nov 15, 2004
- 2
- 0
if the hub flanges are identical as far as width and hieght ect,ect. it won't be a problem. you might want to use new spokes. new spokes are a lot easier to work with and the end result will be better.
- Jan 1, 2001
- 3,043
- 9
If you've never done it before, you might want to take a picture of how the spokes line up with the rim, how they exit the hub, and how they cross each other. I second the new spoke suggestion. They are so much easier to work with because the threads are clean and they are all they are all the same length. So all you gotta do is keep turning the nipples a little at a time (the same amount) and when it starts to tighten-up you'll be closer to having a true wheel. If you don't have a truing stand, mount the wheel on the bike and make sure to use all the spacers and tighten it up nice and straight as if you were going to go for a ride, that way you'll get it centered where it's supposed to be.
I've only built a couple of wheels so I'm speaking from a total beginners stand point. If you pull out all the spokes and put everything in a pile, you will end up confused about how it all goes back together. Take a picture of the wheel before you dismantle it, or have one like it to look at.
Lubricate those nipples!
Only tighten the spokes a little at a time, keep in mind that all the spokes need to be the same tension. There's a real interesting book written by Jobst Brandt called "The Bicycle Wheel." I liked it because it explains the complications of offset and the need for increased spoke tension (I know, it's about bicycle wheels but it's all the same except different). I don't think modern dirt bikes have these problems but on the vintage stuff with conical hubs and such it can be important.
Have fun.
I've only built a couple of wheels so I'm speaking from a total beginners stand point. If you pull out all the spokes and put everything in a pile, you will end up confused about how it all goes back together. Take a picture of the wheel before you dismantle it, or have one like it to look at.
Lubricate those nipples!
Only tighten the spokes a little at a time, keep in mind that all the spokes need to be the same tension. There's a real interesting book written by Jobst Brandt called "The Bicycle Wheel." I liked it because it explains the complications of offset and the need for increased spoke tension (I know, it's about bicycle wheels but it's all the same except different). I don't think modern dirt bikes have these problems but on the vintage stuff with conical hubs and such it can be important.
Have fun.
noosa_nick
Member
- Mar 22, 2004
- 7
- 0
Ol'89r and VintageDirt I am getting confused! If a mate helps to lace a wheel should we both have lubricated nipples or will just one person in this condition make the job easier? :yikes:
DTH, hope it goes well, it is never a fun job in my experience. Just one question, will the bigger rim change anything as a different size sprocket would?
DTH, hope it goes well, it is never a fun job in my experience. Just one question, will the bigger rim change anything as a different size sprocket would?
