I know I need to do some greasin at the dog/bones swing arm. Is there a link that gives some basics. Couldn't find anything. Do I just jack it up, and start taking off the dog bones etc?
Grease - OK I'll say it right off the bat, I should have known better. There its out, I confess. When I picked up my new 1998 KDX220 I diligently went over the whole bike from top to bottom and yet I neglected to regrease the suspension linkage. It was one of those " learning experiences " you'd gladly live without. Looking over any new Japanese built bike you would think grease was worth its weight in gold. From the factory the linkage was so lightly greased you'd swear it wasn't done at all. I'd only owned the bike half a summer before it was time to rebuild the suspension linkage. Slightly used needle bearings and seals anyone? They're going cheep only 4 months on them. I expected it was a fluke but I've heard the same story from new owners with bikes from all the major manufactures to know better.
Here's the deal. When you pick up your bike grab a container of waterproof grease. I like Bell Ray but there are a number of great products out there. Disassemble the rear suspension linkage, using a clean rag wipe as much of the existing grease out as you can ( if it’s a new-to-you bike then clean the bearings out with solvent and air blow dry ) and repack the bearings. Don't forget to slather a generous layer on the seals either. You don't want to damage them before you even have a chance to ride. If you're really on the ball you do the same thing with the steering stem bearings too.
I guarentee you from painful experience that you better keep the swingarm bearings lubed. If they get dry and wear grooves in their bushings, you will have a hell of a time getting the swingarm pivot shaft out. In my case it took a ten pound sledge hammer, which of course ruined the bolt, which costs $21, without the new bearings and bushings.
Before I even did the engine break-in, I COMPLETELY dissasemble the swingarm and suspension linkages. I installed greasing zerks on both side of the swingarm at the pivot (no need to remove the bearings if you carefully center you drilling). You will need to remove the greasing zerk when done and install a pressure plug (a headless screw) because the chaine may get caught on zerks if you leave it in. I also installed greasing zerks on the dogbone (you will need to remove and replace one set of bearings in order to drill and make the tread.) You will notice that the stock bearings are almost dry. I also installed a grease finting on the steering head. This is a must do, the factory grease is cheap and almost none existing. Shame on Kawasaki. The label should say "Made in Japan, Assembled in Tailland by 8 year old exploited children!. Oh yeah, install Molybdene High pressure grease on the suspension and regular, more fluid grease on the steering head.
A friend will lend me his digital camera and I should be able to post jpeg this week-end. I'm new to this forum. Can we post pictures? If you want to tell me how, great. If not, I'll try to figure this out.
Houndong:
If you post your E-mail address, I'll send you some pics of the installation I did,-Zerks in the swing-arm, left top, right bottom. Only one in the unitrak though. Haven't gotten around to finishing that one. They work well, and it's nice to see grease coming out when you squeeze the gun.
Looks like many guys from Quebec area had the same problem... me too!!! after only 2 months of riding on my '01 220, had to replace 2 bearings and sleeve....sometimes expensive to learn !
I zerked the main swingarm bearings which required drilling a couple of holes in the bolt (threaded tube) and drilling a hole in each of the races. Even with a cobalt drill bit I had trouble drilling the holes in the race and ended up cutting a slot with a Dremel tool, it should work fine. I am interested in seeing what you have zerked and the approach you took.
I live in the Outaouais region... I am probably the only Kdx owner on 50 km radius... There is a quad invasion!!! Houndog, pictures are on there way. DVO, can you send me your pics ogirouard@hotmail.com. I will then send you my pics.
Other requests are welcomed as well. Wish I need how to post them on this site....
Thanks for the pics guys, looks like I might have to break out the drill and tap again :) My only concern is that zerking the actual swingarm and shock linkage might create a weak spot that might crack easier?
What year are your bikes? Seems like this might be an all Canadian mod :)
I zerked my swingarm bolt based on the webpage (http://www.kdxmodifications.com/) which is not up now. Instead of drilling the bearing races I used a dremel tool to grind a slot, should work great.
Johnkdx: What part of the outaouais? I make it up toward Gracefield(near Maniwaki) from time to time and can travel if it means to ride. By the way-sorry for the huge file, I meant to reduce it. Also you can't post pics here 'cause you, like me need to be a subscriber, not just registered.
Houndog: If you deburr and smooth the edges you won't get cracks. Mines a '01 220.
Have a good one.
Why drill the bearing racer on the swing arm? A zerk installed on top of the swingarm will let plenty of grease between the racer and needle bearings.
About the weak spot... Yeah, I thought about that one but figured that I pros outweight the cons. Don't you think that there will be less stress on all the components if everyting is well greased? I do.
I'm from north of Québec city, Neufchatel area. What about a good synthetic waterproof grease, I think it would last long enough to keep you from drilling, sloting, etc....Anyway, I remove the swingarm at least once a year to clean the machine....
John KDXYour question-Why drill the bearing racer on the swing arm?
The idea I guess was to have the grease enter through the pivot-bolt(swing-arm shaft), come out at the inner bearing race(swing-arm sleeve) which was drilled to allow the grease to reach the needle bearings. This would have the advantage that the swing-arm shaft would get greased and not rust to the swing-arm sleeve(apparently very comon). My only problem with this method is that you may not be able to control which route the grease passes to get out-either between the shaft and sleeve or through the bearings. The way I did it, the bearings are guaranteed to get the grease. However I will soon do the swing-arm shaft to prevent it rusting to the bearing sleeve. I hope I explained this right.
Good luck!
RTL: You should have 'em now.
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