Hi guys! recently I saw a video clip of the europe super motard competition and I am so impressed by the way they slide the rear on tarmac. did any of you guy know how to get a bike into a slide at that kinda speed? I've converted my ktm 400exc into 17 inches rims and fitted road tyres on it. hope to learn the technique of sliding:p
Rear wheel sliding?
- Thread starter djebel250
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Phreakster
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- Jan 6, 2002
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The tecnique you refer to is called 'Hacking' or doing a 'Hackey" and it is really quite simple, you go as fast as you can toward the corner of your choice and quickly downshift 2-3 gears WITHOUT blipping the throttle (so a rapid downshift with the clutch IN 2-3 gears) now using slight front brake you modulate the clutch (letting it out roughly half way immediately) and the difference in engine RPM and wheel RPM causes the rear wheel to "step out" or 'Hack" and the result is a really bitchen controllable slide like the ones you see in the video, there is a fine line between pleasure and pain here using this style, a highside is always waiting to claim you, but if done correctly it is a thing of beauty like you see. Some people only downshift once from top speed on corner entry,I prefer at least 2 gears but it all depends on how fast the corner is and what gearing you run. DONT try this with knobbies or anything other than the full 17" supermoto setup oryou may be sorely dissapointed (pun intended). Let us know how it go's !;)
Phreakster
Member
- Jan 6, 2002
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one last thought:
clutch modultaion is really the key to this whole process, letting the clutch out too quickly all at once will cause radical wheel hop, NOT letting it out quick enough will allow the rear wheel to catch up with the engine RPM too fast and the tire wont slide. I learned this technique in the mall parking lot at 8:30 PM every night till I had it wired, the cops cant bust you cause its private property, and I could always get about an hour of practice in before someone complained and i was "asked' to leave. go for it man...once you get it there is NO turning back, you will never ride a street bike again, cause you will be faster in the twisties than all the sportbike guys and they will hate you for it!
clutch modultaion is really the key to this whole process, letting the clutch out too quickly all at once will cause radical wheel hop, NOT letting it out quick enough will allow the rear wheel to catch up with the engine RPM too fast and the tire wont slide. I learned this technique in the mall parking lot at 8:30 PM every night till I had it wired, the cops cant bust you cause its private property, and I could always get about an hour of practice in before someone complained and i was "asked' to leave. go for it man...once you get it there is NO turning back, you will never ride a street bike again, cause you will be faster in the twisties than all the sportbike guys and they will hate you for it!
High Lord Gomer
Poked with Sticks
- Sep 26, 1999
- 11,788
- 35
:scream: I can't make it from my desk to the bathroom without bumping into 3 walls and you call that technique simple?!? :confused:
It sure is beautiful to see, but I doubt I'll ever even try it.
Phreakster
Member
- Jan 6, 2002
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Yeah the superbike style is definately a treat as well, although it is altogether different, these bikes have very very expensive SLIPPER clutches which actually do the clutch modulation for you (them) so in effect all you do with a slipper clutch to get the same slide is downshift once or twice and dump the clutch, the slipping action of the clutch does the rest, it is truly an art form that takes alot of time to master, I race 750 SuperSport on a 2001 GSXR 750, I finished the 2001 season 4th place overall at WSMC (Willow Springs), this was my rookie year, I can slide the hell out of my motard bike at speed, but it is a little harder on the race bike. Anyway get with it! its WAYY Fun!
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks Phreakster . I practice cornering on smalll winding roads. the shopping malls here all have covered carparks. surface is rubber treated. don't wanna do stunts like that on these surfaces. I will look for a better place to practice as the technique involves RISKS. Btw Preakster, the WAVE rotor you have on your yz426, It's from Braking rite? is it thinker than the OEM disk? Any advantages or Dis advantages you had after installing one? Mine is on order. can't wait to get it soon. ;) I would like to know what kinda super moto tyres you guys are using. i am using a Dunlop gpr 70.
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Phreakster
Member
- Jan 6, 2002
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Hey djebel250
The braking "wavy" rotor is THICKER than the stock rotor by a long shot, in fact it is almost twice as thick, you will need a bracket to relocate the stock caliper, "Talon" (company that makes the hubs0 makes a nice bracket that I used until my caliper came in (I bought the Braking 4 piston caliper) the only problem with this setup is that the rotor is so thick that you will have to grind away some of the brake pads to get it (caliper and pads) to go over the rotor, I used EBC pads and I had to grind that pads roughly .020 inch on each side to get them on. The braking caliper eliminates this problem and it gos on really easy. The other issue with running a bigger rotor and stock caliper is that the stock pads do NOT make perfect contact with the rotors full width, it may be hard to describe but basically the contact surface of the stock pad is say 1.5 inches wide and the rotor contact surface is 2 inches wide so its a bit of a pain, the braking quality using a stock caliper and 320 MM rotor is fantastic, WAYYYY better than stock, but it improved another 100% when I added the 4 piston caliper. in fact I endo'd my bike this weekend showing off doing stoppies cause the front has so much more brake force now. Anyway...have fun with it! P.S. I use Pirelli Dragon Corsa "yellow" (on the rear) and a super corsa race "blue" on the front 150 on the rear and 120 on the front, they work fantastic, slide nicely and grip at full lean.
The braking "wavy" rotor is THICKER than the stock rotor by a long shot, in fact it is almost twice as thick, you will need a bracket to relocate the stock caliper, "Talon" (company that makes the hubs0 makes a nice bracket that I used until my caliper came in (I bought the Braking 4 piston caliper) the only problem with this setup is that the rotor is so thick that you will have to grind away some of the brake pads to get it (caliper and pads) to go over the rotor, I used EBC pads and I had to grind that pads roughly .020 inch on each side to get them on. The braking caliper eliminates this problem and it gos on really easy. The other issue with running a bigger rotor and stock caliper is that the stock pads do NOT make perfect contact with the rotors full width, it may be hard to describe but basically the contact surface of the stock pad is say 1.5 inches wide and the rotor contact surface is 2 inches wide so its a bit of a pain, the braking quality using a stock caliper and 320 MM rotor is fantastic, WAYYYY better than stock, but it improved another 100% when I added the 4 piston caliper. in fact I endo'd my bike this weekend showing off doing stoppies cause the front has so much more brake force now. Anyway...have fun with it! P.S. I use Pirelli Dragon Corsa "yellow" (on the rear) and a super corsa race "blue" on the front 150 on the rear and 120 on the front, they work fantastic, slide nicely and grip at full lean.
