I'm tired of cracking plastic covers and having other screws coming loose. I want an compact, and inexpensive Torque Wrench for kdx torque specs. Any suggestions?
I have a ft lbs. and a inch lbs. from Sears and the auto parts store. I don't torque the small plastic stuff but I do everything else that I can get to. I also use the blue locktight on most of the nuts and bolts. I still have not figured out how to torque the cylinder though. I can't get to it with a standard socket.
Tom
I have a great 3/8" drive T-wrench that I picked-up at the Home Depot. It's made by Husky and goes from 1 ft.lb. to 100 ft. lbs. I don't remember the cost but my guess was about $50 to $70
'I'm tired of cracking plastic covers and having other screws coming loose. Any suggestions?'
1. Get your elbow some torque training.
2. Use loctite (blue).
You'll drive yourself nuts (bolts too, maybe) tightening to torque spec every fastener on the bike. With decent air filter maintenance (seat bolts), s/a repacking (attaching bolts and rh cover bolt) and trans oil changes you should be doing a whole lot of wrenching. Lighten up on the twist!!
Once you get a decent wrench (I prefer separate wrenches for light in/lb and heavier ft/lb values), 'set' some fasteners then 'feel' them with a regular ratchet/wrench to get an idea of what is required.
Speedy: Torque the cylinder nuts using an adapter (available from motion pro). If you keep the attached torque wrench at 90º to the adapter, no torque conversion math is necessary.
I'va had a craftsman for years now, Actually I have alot of craftsman stuff
, they have a lifetime warrenty. Any sockets I've broken (through massive abuse, like a six foot pipe on the end of a drive) have been replaced on the
spot no questions asked. Some of it is inhereted and pushing 40 years old but
still in regular use!
I like that, buy a tool now and expect to still be using it @ 75 years old. IN my books thats a good return on your dollar.
My Mastercfart Pro series stuff seems to be holding up well also.
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