trevor9a said:They basically put it in a vise and powered it off with a chisel.
QUOTE]
A CHISEL! :yikes: Just kiddin', ;) actually that does work. The best way like mtk and nickyd said is to push the whole stem out with a press.
But, if you don't happen to have access to a press, you can clamp the stem upside down in a vice, (use soft aluminum jaws for this) and with a chisel and hammer, tap down on the race being careful not to damage the triple clamp. Go a little at a time and go all around the race. You only have to move it about 1/2" to get it off of the tight part of the stem and then it will slip off.
To install the new race, find a piece of pipe or tubing that is bigger than the stem in diameter and longer than the stem. The tubing must fit on the inside flat section of the race so as not to damage to bearing surface or cage. Warm the race up to expand it, (not freeze it) and using the pipe and a hammer, tap it down until is is seated against the lower clamp. Don't forget to put the seal on first.
Aftermarket clamps are available for either 7/8" bars or 1 1/8" protaper bars.
Just my $ .02
trevor9a said:I paid a local shop $20 to get it off and put the new one on. Well worth the money. They basically put it in a vise and powered it off with a chisel. To put it back on put the bearing in the freezer for a little while and it will slide on with little trouble.
Peer Lovell said:I think it's the other way around. You want to put the stearing stem in the freezer, not the bearing.
trevor9a said:Actually I asked that question and they said that's how they do it, also it was only for a short time. They did it while I waited. When I got it back the stem was warm and the bearing was cool. The guys reply was that sometimes it will slide on that way without any effort.
TimberPig said:I don't know how they figure that one, because it is completely backwards from what every other person uses. By freezing the stem, it will contract slightly, while heating the bearing allows it to expand slightly. This increases the clearance, making it easier to install. By their method, they would contract the bearing, and expand the stem, making the clearances tighter and more difficult to install. I wouldn't expect it to just slip on.
trevor9a said:Actually the stem was room temp. I think it is probably easier, or quicker to cool the bearing rather than the stem. (or you could cool both) If cold is going to shrink the stem it should shrink the bearing as well. At first glance you would think the bearing would get smaller in diameter but my guess is that since the metal is contracting it would contract in all directions. Conversely, if you heat the bearing it should expand in all directions and make it more difficult. All I can say is that he did not hammer it on and it took all of about 2 minutes. What do you have to lose by trying it?
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