Ride Report: '04 KDX-220 w/Scotts Steering Stabilizer

Feanor

Member
Aug 10, 2004
144
0
I originally purchased the Scotts Stabilizer several months ago. At the time, I was informed by Scott's Performance Products that they were no longer making the "bolt-on" kit for the KDX models and instead would only be supplying the "weld-on" variety.

Initially I was very disappointed with this information only because I did not want to go thru the additional hassle of finding a reputable welding house, or the additional concern of what to do if said welding house messed up the installation (there was some light fabrication/modification required for the weld-on kit)

I made some inquiries, a few phone calls, questions at the local cycle retailers and no one seemed to have any info on welders with motorcycle frame experience that could do the work...

As a result, I continued to ride until the end of red sticker season and the stabilizer just sat on my workbench for a few months.

During that time though I was able to get quite a few more hours on the KDX and more experience on how the bike reacts undampened.

On a lark, I sent an email to Scott's asking if they reversed their decision and would make more KDX bolt on kits and low and behold! The reply I got back made it sound like they never heard of that decision before and they had loads in stock! LoL!

Happily I ordered one, got it about three days later, bolted it on in about 5 minutes and Voila! Installation complete!

Ok, enough of the weird background info... onto the ride report...

The terrain I tested the damper on was fairly rocky, with a mix of hard pack and light sand, with some nice short hill climbs of varying smoothness...

With the damper on the default setting (inbetween hard and soft) I noticed only the most miniscule difference in low to medium speed riding in the flat rocky areas. My main sense of the difference is that the steering was a hair slower and felt "tighter" as if the steerer tube nut was wrenched down far too tightly...

After a bit more riding I suddenly realized that the steering only felt tighter and slower that way when turning away from center... Snapping the wheel back to centerline was unaffected until you turned past center in the opposite direction at which time the damping effect came back on... Its extremely hard to explain but it made it feel much easier to "go straight" as if the damper changed the bikes geometry in order to give it a strong tendency to want to straighten out...

I'm still a big time novice and so I could not test what others here would deem "high speed", but I would assume the feeling (wanting to straighten out instead of following a steering tangent) would only grow stronger with more speed.

I picked a little loop course that went up a short hillclimb and down the same face, turn around at the bottom of the hill and then back up...

I've done this excercise many times before and because of the number of obstacles in the short climb and the depth of certain rain ruts, I always hold second gear and motor up dodging things I thought I needed to dodge. I would almost pin it in second while completely on the pipe and the back end pitching around behind me pretty good as I let the bike work underneath me all the way up and down...

Before the damper, I tried third gear on this climb and the ride always got to intense and hard to control and backing off caused me to lug in third and I would have to reselect second and continue... Its almost like, for my skill level, I needed a 2.5 gear for this particular section...

I rode around and around this loop many times and noted that hitting several ruts and larger rocks that would normally wrench the bars hard in my grip, that the effect was greatly lessened! and I had this huge smile on my face in my helmet thinking "this thing works great!"

My confidence built up tremendously and I found myself going noticeabley faster over the same terrain...

All of a sudden on one of the laps it sounded as though the motor was starting to bog... I rolled on more throttle and it got better (back on the pipe) but it seemed to bog much quicker than normal and I was at once concerned...

I completed the lap and on the flat clicked down into first... Which was actually second gear! I had unknowingly been ripping along in second/third and just getting on the pipe in third when I could previously (without the damper) only maintain what i thought was control, pinned in second!

Now my smile got even bigger! Because the bike felt so much smoother and less "twitchy" in the rough stuff and this gave me that mental confidence boost to ride faster (or maybe only the confidence to ride closer to what my skill actually is :) )

I love this thing! Just wish it wasn;t so damned expensive! LoL!

Feanor
 
Last edited:
Sep 15, 2004
195
0
I have been wondering about the steering damper.If it is really worth the BIG price tag or not?Thanks for the report.Where did tyou get it?How much did you pay?Did you notice if you hit a root on a turn with the front tire if the steering damper would help?(front tire sliding out?)Thanks
 

Feanor

Member
Aug 10, 2004
144
0
yankeefan4life72 said:
I have been wondering about the steering damper.If it is really worth the BIG price tag or not?Thanks for the report.Where did tyou get it?How much did you pay?Did you notice if you hit a root on a turn with the front tire if the steering damper would help?(front tire sliding out?)Thanks

Yankee,

If the root caused the wheel to lose contact with the ground for any significant amount of time in a corner I don't think anything could be done about the loss of traction and the front tire washing out, but what it DOES help with is that jarring/twisting jolt that comes up thru the bars at impact that causes the wheel to turn far of center... The damper reduces that jolt AND keeps the wheel from departing the correct angle as far and so you get that split second to save it, whereas, without the dameper, you're already on the ground...

I purposely hit rocks in turns during testing just to see what would happen, and here's the best I can describe it:

You're countersteering into a corner with mild roost off the back under power and the rear end drifting slightly to the outside... BAP! you hit a rock that twists the bars in your hand and steers you to the outside of the corner. The back end starts to come around and in this wild panic (for me anyway) You try to muscle the bars as fast as you can further to the outside to try and save the back end...

You feel the resistance of the damper keeping you from making this input quickly and in that moment you curse, thinking that its working against you.... Actually its working against your mistake! because I've been in MANY situations where oscillation starts at this very moment... I try to countersteer sensing the back end coming around when in actuality; even though the rear is still moving lets say, left, its already starting to set up its tendency to want to move back to the right when I initiate me "correction"... Because I move the bars slower away from center with the damper on, I'm not acelerating the action of the rear moving left, but instead, flowing with it so when the rear starts to hook up and moves back to center, I can flip the bars back to center (no damping) and react to the oscillation, rather than add to it...

Without the damper I was always giving too much to soon when I tried to countersteer, now that panic response is lessened to a more appropriate level... it "makes" your steering inputs subtle and relaxed more like a pro (even when, like me, you're a crazy nervous noob LoL!)

I can't wait to try this thing in the sand! I've been told it handles the drifting and flowing in deep sugar sand very well and keeps you tracking much straighter as if you added a few inches to your wheelbase...

Have a good one!

Feanor
 
Sep 15, 2004
195
0
ok........ I think you should be a salesman for scotts!Seriously though I think you have sold me.How much did you pay?I have renthal bars with the stock clamps and getting a Trila Tech computer this week.Will the damper fit with all this?Do I have to buy a triple clamp?I saw one on abcd_bay for $389.Scotts website says $489 I think.That is ALOT of money.How does the W.E.R. compare?Thanks for the input!!! Oh, dont forget to put in an application to SCOTTS!!!
 

Feanor

Member
Aug 10, 2004
144
0
Rollerman and Yankee,

I am not affiliated with Scott's in ANY way! LoL! I'm just absolutely tickled that I found something that really helps keep the rubber side down! :)

I purchased the whole schmeer from the Scottsperformance website. I got the Bar Clamp, Pro-Taper oversized bar in the Henry/Reed bend, Upper Triple Clamp, weld on post, and stabilizer. Basically, everything required to install it without having to get anything else or mod existing parts... THe whole thing if I remember correctly was $599.00 + shipping and if I also remember correctly I think it saved something like $150 over buying all the pieces seperately. They call it something like the Stabilizer/Bar combo kit and it's a bit of money but saves ALOT of hassle too... Plus it looks great!

Keep in mind that I ended up getting the bolt on post afterwards so now I have the weld on post if anyone wants it :)

Using the factory triple clamp doesn't seem to be a problem, but the Scotts barclamp of course is required (it has the mounting points for the stabilizer) so you have to ditch the factory KDX barposts.

The Scotts upper triple clamp is beautifully machined and by using it, you don't have to grind off a section of the factory triple clamp which is required if you stay with it... It doesn't look like a huge deal, but I just don't like hacking my bike up...

All you have to do is specify on the order form or on the phone what kind of bars you're using (7/8" or oversized) and what position you have the bar in (clamps reversed, or default to move the bar closer or farther from you) as this dictates the clamp you get...

Keep in mind that if you use a 7/8" bar with a cross member, you're going to have to bend the crosspiece up or "bow" it as they say so the stabilizer will fit under it. I always thought that looked kind of funky so I opted for the Scott's supplied Pro-taper oversized... Since the square pad won't fit over the stabilizer, I got a pad specifically made for the Stab from dirt-bike-gear.com That was $18

When I get home I'll snap some pics of the setup (all I have is a cameraphone so hopefully it wil be clear)

I was so happy with the Stabilizer that I took the vinyl stickers they sent with it and used them on my gas powered Radio Controlled boat haha! I'll take pics of that too and post them when I figure out how the pics posting works on this site :)

*edit*

Oooh! I forgot I posted pics of my boat on another site... Here's the thread if anyone is interested :)

Boat Pics

*edit*

Have a good one!

Feanor
 

dirt bike dave

Sponsoring Member
May 3, 2000
5,349
3
Thanks for the enthusiastic write up.

I also am a big fan of steering dampers (I had WER before Scotts - both work great!).

IMO, every offroad bike needs 3 things: Suspenion valved right, correct jetting, and a steering damper. Everything else is optional.

As to the cost...well, last ride I had without a damper was 10 years ago. I broke my collar bone in a crash that would have been prevented with a damper. It's a safety device as well as a performance device.
 
Sep 15, 2004
195
0
Kick A$$ boat feanor!! Lets see the kdx.Thanks for all the input.You sold me.Dave ,if it could save me some pain im buying!! thanks guys!!Now what to do with the renthal bars............abcd_bay?
 

yz250flash

~SPONSOR~
Aug 8, 2003
150
0
If you want to use oversized bars with the Stabilizer you have to buy the entire triple clamp. Scotts sells oversized bar mounts but they will not work with the KDX due to to the mounts being angled something like 15 degrees. Scotts can explain this better. For 7/8 bars you can just buy the standard kit. I believe I paid $429.00 from Scotts. This included the stabilizer, bolt on post, top bar mount and two rubber cones (the ones the bar mounts mount through).

Anyway, I bought one stabilizer and three mounting kits. I can now change the stabilizer from bike to bike in a matter of minutes depending on which one I want to ride. Just two allen head screws mount the stabilizer.
 

glwilliams58

Member
Jun 7, 2005
13
0
This is great stuff. Thanks for taking the time to post such detail. I had avoided the cost thinking it was not necessary. I have been converted!

Quick question about the bars; which are best for tight woods racing on the KDX 220? I have the stock bars and find they could be a bit more narrow for the woods and taller for the straights. Any suggestions or recommendation here before I call Scotts? Does the stabilizer raise the height? Is oversized more for motocross? Will narrow bars lesson the control?

I am pretty new to this, so all input is welcome.

Thanks.

gw
 

yz250flash

~SPONSOR~
Aug 8, 2003
150
0
For woods riding i cut all my bars down to somewhere between 29.5 to 30 inches. I bought the renthal fat bar - carmichael high bend. They are really tall, something like 4.5 inches. If you are looking to save a little on money you can use 7/8 inch mini bars. they are high and usually come in about 29 - 30 inch widths. A lot of woods riders use them with no problems.

The stabilizer is great for palmetto roots (which we have a lot of here in Florida) and in mud it helps me track straighter.
 
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