RK non aerosol o ring chain lube
- Thread starter kdx Clark
- Start date
I can't answer your specific question, however I have posted in the past about what people are using and the replies are many along with the differing opinions. I have come to the conclusion that you should just lube your chain (with what ever) after washing and before riding. You will ultimately replace the sprockets and chain before the thing wears completely out anyway. My .02 being said I am currently using belray chain lube and in a pinch wd40.
PS. They all seem to fling, some more than others. The proper way to lube the chain is to put the lube on the side of the chain that comes in contact with the sprockets (top side of chain below swing arm between the cs sprocket and rear chain guide. rotate chain until entire length is lubed)
Lew
PS. They all seem to fling, some more than others. The proper way to lube the chain is to put the lube on the side of the chain that comes in contact with the sprockets (top side of chain below swing arm between the cs sprocket and rear chain guide. rotate chain until entire length is lubed)
Lew
Clark,
It really isn't a matter of if it is liquid or not, it's a matter of what sort of solvent is being used and the base fluid of the lube. Some solvents are fairly heavy-duty and can attack the rubber of some o-rings. That being said...most high-end o-ring chains these days use a nitrile butadiene or similar rubber for thier o-rings which is very resistant to oils and solvents. Solvents tend to evaporate and unless you soak your o-rings for an extended period, it is very doubtful that they will be damaged by most lubes on the market.
It is best to use a lube that claims safe for o-rings to be sure.
I realise that if you are using an aerosol can to spray the lube on that your method for application is OK, Lew....but the actual place you want to lube is between the pin plate (outer plate) and the bushing plate (inner plate). This is the avenue to both the rings of a ring chain, and the friction surfaces of a standard chain. Any lube on the outside of a link plate is wasted product, save for what coats the surface between the outer roller and the bushing, and what gets on the sprocket teeth is also benificial. IF your chain is standard and has formed bushings (a plate that is made into a circle to form a bushing) then you can lube right on top of the rollers and the lubricant(IF it is a penetrating type) will find it's way to the friction surfaces between bushing and pin.
If you will read any of my previous posts on chains, you will see that I hate wax. Paraffin based lubes, no matter what the big-time marketeers tell you, is a bad idea for chains. There is no way for the lubricant to properly penetrate and do it's job properly. They also tend to help the demise of your chains and sprockets by encouraging free rides to grit and dirt.
You also must realise that I am a marketeer of dry-film type lubricant and am very biased in my opinions.
It really isn't a matter of if it is liquid or not, it's a matter of what sort of solvent is being used and the base fluid of the lube. Some solvents are fairly heavy-duty and can attack the rubber of some o-rings. That being said...most high-end o-ring chains these days use a nitrile butadiene or similar rubber for thier o-rings which is very resistant to oils and solvents. Solvents tend to evaporate and unless you soak your o-rings for an extended period, it is very doubtful that they will be damaged by most lubes on the market.
It is best to use a lube that claims safe for o-rings to be sure.
I realise that if you are using an aerosol can to spray the lube on that your method for application is OK, Lew....but the actual place you want to lube is between the pin plate (outer plate) and the bushing plate (inner plate). This is the avenue to both the rings of a ring chain, and the friction surfaces of a standard chain. Any lube on the outside of a link plate is wasted product, save for what coats the surface between the outer roller and the bushing, and what gets on the sprocket teeth is also benificial. IF your chain is standard and has formed bushings (a plate that is made into a circle to form a bushing) then you can lube right on top of the rollers and the lubricant(IF it is a penetrating type) will find it's way to the friction surfaces between bushing and pin.
If you will read any of my previous posts on chains, you will see that I hate wax. Paraffin based lubes, no matter what the big-time marketeers tell you, is a bad idea for chains. There is no way for the lubricant to properly penetrate and do it's job properly. They also tend to help the demise of your chains and sprockets by encouraging free rides to grit and dirt.
You also must realise that I am a marketeer of dry-film type lubricant and am very biased in my opinions.
Since I can't PM or E-mail you, R...you can see info on my products in the NewProduct/Services forum soon.
Naming my product here would be a bit forward.
Naming my product here would be a bit forward.
jmics19067
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jan 22, 2002
- 2,097
- 0
when it comes to chains Jaybird is the man :worship: any way I do use the chainwax but as a preservative. I dont ride as often as I used to and the bike can sit for extended periods. I clean up after I ride , dry the chain, use Jaybird's lube, then the wax to prevent rust. Only becuase I have a can of this stuff to get rid of. If I didnt have a can of this stuff on my shelf I wouldn't bother just to cheap to actually throw it away.
Jaybird's lube is great stuff in my opinion and a lot more economical then anything in a spray can. No waste , no mess , dirt doesn't stick to it and the bike's chain and sprockets is super easy to clean now after I am done riding.
The lubricity is excellent, try this experiment, wash the bike and push it around , now lube the chain I swear the bike is easier to push afterwards.
Now I am not sure if Jaybird's lube is all that and a bag of chips compared to others. I do not have the equipment,time or knowledge or data keeping skills to do any real forms of testing. The one thing I truly like is that the drop by drop dispensing almost forces you to notice things about your chain/bike. You will see things like chain guide bent ,rollers froze,sliders worn, rear wheel bearings, shock leaking, stuff you wouldn't see if you only pushed the bike in a little circle around you while spraying.
Now most everybody knows that preventive maintenance is key and most people have a certain ritual of going over their bike. But before you scoff at me about it , all I am saying is that if you spend more time right next to the bike the CHANCES that you see something are greater than just going over a checklist.
Jaybird,
I would appreciate your comments on a lube I have started using on a non-oring chain. It is an aersol spray called Dry Molybdenum Disulfide, bought from a local auto store. It comes out of the can as a very thin liquid but dries rapidly to a dull silvery colour. Once dry, dirt does not stick to it at all, and it does not fling off. The spray can is obviously not the best applicator, though, the stuff gets all over the sprocket, hub, etc.
My main concern with this lube is whether or not it is penetrating properly into the chain. I have thought about taking apart the master link after lubing to check it, does this sound like a reasonable method? Also, do you have any suggestions on what to use to clean the chain before lubing? Thanks in advance for your help, Bruce.
I would appreciate your comments on a lube I have started using on a non-oring chain. It is an aersol spray called Dry Molybdenum Disulfide, bought from a local auto store. It comes out of the can as a very thin liquid but dries rapidly to a dull silvery colour. Once dry, dirt does not stick to it at all, and it does not fling off. The spray can is obviously not the best applicator, though, the stuff gets all over the sprocket, hub, etc.
My main concern with this lube is whether or not it is penetrating properly into the chain. I have thought about taking apart the master link after lubing to check it, does this sound like a reasonable method? Also, do you have any suggestions on what to use to clean the chain before lubing? Thanks in advance for your help, Bruce.
bruce,
Molybdenum disulfide is an ingredient. It is a lubricating solid that is carried on by a solvent and when the solvent evaporates it leaves the lubricating solids in plce to do the work.
The problem with the stuff you get at an auto parts store, is that it is pretty generic. It usually has no other synthetic oils, anti-oxidants, or polymers in the package.
As far as penetration, you can't find anything better for penetrating than a thin, moly based fluid. Moly is very tenatious and will find the friction surfaces.
Ford, I hate to disagree with you, but I find, as have others, that Super Clean aint quite super clean.
Molybdenum disulfide is an ingredient. It is a lubricating solid that is carried on by a solvent and when the solvent evaporates it leaves the lubricating solids in plce to do the work.
The problem with the stuff you get at an auto parts store, is that it is pretty generic. It usually has no other synthetic oils, anti-oxidants, or polymers in the package.
As far as penetration, you can't find anything better for penetrating than a thin, moly based fluid. Moly is very tenatious and will find the friction surfaces.
Ford, I hate to disagree with you, but I find, as have others, that Super Clean aint quite super clean.
I've been using Super Clean and like it. The only mess I have with it is with the over spray. Once it dries it's hard to just wipe off without a solvent. That assures me that it's staying on the chain too :)
RM,
It's not quite an assurance that it is doing the job of friction load carrying though. When we use petroleum lubrication, the theory states that there must be a film of at LEAST .001 of an inch thick for oils, and .002 for grease, to be able to carry the load and effectively reduce friction. When there is friction, a petroleum film will lesson as friction happens, being consumed if you will. At that point lube needs to be replentished so that the film is back to it's proper thickeness to be able to perform. Just because it is staying put on your swingarm does not mean it is doing it's job at the point of friction. That goo will stay on your swingarm until you take it off...do you think it will stay on the friction surface the same? Rub another piece of aluminum against your swingarm where the goo is a few hundred times and see what happens.
It's not quite an assurance that it is doing the job of friction load carrying though. When we use petroleum lubrication, the theory states that there must be a film of at LEAST .001 of an inch thick for oils, and .002 for grease, to be able to carry the load and effectively reduce friction. When there is friction, a petroleum film will lesson as friction happens, being consumed if you will. At that point lube needs to be replentished so that the film is back to it's proper thickeness to be able to perform. Just because it is staying put on your swingarm does not mean it is doing it's job at the point of friction. That goo will stay on your swingarm until you take it off...do you think it will stay on the friction surface the same? Rub another piece of aluminum against your swingarm where the goo is a few hundred times and see what happens.
Jay, point well taken. I've never taken taken apart the chain to see if the lube holds up to the abuse. I will try a little experiment with two pieces of steel to see what happens.
I've tried so many different chain lubes over the years that I honestly don't recall what's what anymore. Recently I used Honda HP on my son's bike and the SuperClean on mine (same brand chain and sprockets) and his chain is shot already and mine is still going strong. Based on that alone I'm not using the Honda stuff anymore.
I always learning something new everyday so if there's something else I should be trying, let me know. I don't have my chain lube can at work with me. Do they specify if there is moly in them? I do remember seeing the the HP had Teflon in it.
I've tried so many different chain lubes over the years that I honestly don't recall what's what anymore. Recently I used Honda HP on my son's bike and the SuperClean on mine (same brand chain and sprockets) and his chain is shot already and mine is still going strong. Based on that alone I'm not using the Honda stuff anymore.
I always learning something new everyday so if there's something else I should be trying, let me know. I don't have my chain lube can at work with me. Do they specify if there is moly in them? I do remember seeing the the HP had Teflon in it.