RM vs RMX parts interchangeability?

[bord]

I have picked up a 91 RMX and was wondering how interchangeable the parts are with a similar year RM250? Mostly just things that wear out or get broke like fork seals, sprockets, clutches, cables, levers, etc. I have found some sites that have some good prices on RM parts and I was just wondering if the will work on a RMX. And then of course there is always a ton of RM parts on ebay but not all that many RMX parts. Any of you RM guys know any items for sure that will interchange?

 

[placelast]

Originally posted by bord
wondering how interchangeable the parts are with a similar year RM250? Mostly just things that wear out or get broke like fork seals, sprockets, clutches, cables, levers, etc. And then of course there is always a ton of RM parts on ebay but not all that many RMX parts.

You will not have to worry about parts availability nor search far. Pick up a White Bros. and Moose catalog and you will find plenty of "wear" parts available and interchange with other models. Here are some examples of interchangeability from WB:

Fork seals: ’91-’95 RM125/250 seals are the same, as with the bushings thru ’94. Shock bearings interchange as well
Sprockets: front and rear - ’81-current RM125/250, ’90-’99 DR, & DRZ;
Clutch plates and brake pads: ’89-’92, ’94-’95 RM250
Cables: clutch - ’90-’93 RM250. Throttle: use OEM (I’ve had some problems here).
Levers: both - ’86-’95 RM, ’90-’99 DR interchange
Reeds: 89-’90 RM250
Seat cover: ’89-’92 RM250
Side panels, front and rear fender, radiator shrouds: ’89-’92 RM250 (some trimming required on RH panel trailing edge if stock RMX rear fender is used).

FMF and PC still make pipes.

UFO used to make a rear fender; I bought the last three in existance, but can be talked out of one if needed.

The chain guide is robust but the mounting is weak. check it often, and when it goes replace it with one from Fredette.

The rubber handlebar mounting nicely absorbs vibration - even though it is not a shakey bike - but rotates in a hard crash. Going with a solid top or offset perches helps, but a new top clamp is better (see below.)

If you can deal with a 40-mile max. range, a '89-'92 RM250 tank will flatten the front seat slope and allow you easily move up and onto the tank for turns. But if I remember right youi are a big fella, and could benefit greatly from moving the bars forward and up. Drop me a line at [email protected] as I know of a guy selling a RM; maybe he will sell you his upper clamp as these are rare to come by these days.