Dirtykid

Member
Jul 8, 2002
67
0
Hello again fellow riders,

Yes its me again the long poster ill try keep it short.

I looked at my bike today and its been a while since she started, and for some reason she lured me in with her sexy curves and all that, "kick me ive been bad" she said, so i did and she started, true story.

Anyways she sounded fine when the choke was up she was running normal, but then when i would push down the bike would die. so i did it a few times and then it wouldnt start at all. SO i jumped started the bitch, and she was running weak, I gave it some gas with clutch in and she started rolling, then i released and she ran could my bike was flying faster then ever, but then in low rpm's it would start struggling, but it still ran.

Then when i stopped cause i sensed she was not in good shaped i noticed that there was some black splooge just a little but it oozed out from the piston, i think maybe i didnt tighten the spark plug enough. Is the splooge a bad sign ? Is my bike gonna die ? Can someone help me please, im desperate...

Thanks
 

bruce j

Member
Dec 14, 2001
111
0
Where exactly is the splooge leaking from? From what you said in your post it sounds like it is from around the spark plug, is that right?
 

Dirtykid

Member
Jul 8, 2002
67
0
Ya the splooge was coming right out from around the spark plug. And as for the carb its brand new, do they pre jet properly or should i change it around ?? I dont wanna screw up this one.
 

darringer

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Dec 2, 2001
1,029
0
It might run weak down low from either bad reeds, an intake air leak, or bad ignition-side crank seal. These need to be addressed before changing the jetting. Check all of the simple stuff first.
 

bruce j

Member
Dec 14, 2001
111
0
I agree with the post above, check the simple things first, the simplest being to make sure the plug is properly tightened. You might want to take it out to check for fouling first, then re-install and see if it will start.
 

Dirtykid

Member
Jul 8, 2002
67
0
How do i check ignition stuff ? Cause it might be that, but today I started it up and changed around the air screw setting it was out way too far, so when i adjusted my bike was running normal again, it was the best feeling in the world, and then I went back and put on my side panels that were off from working on it, and then I excitedly jump on my bike and it didnt start.

I removed the spark plug and it was sparking, and then i put it back in and it was close to starting but it didnt. Mod Edit - You know you can't say that out hereIf i check the reeds and all that what should i be looking for ?

Thanks alot for all your advice, you guys help me out alot, i dont what I would do without this place.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

bruce j

Member
Dec 14, 2001
111
0
To check the ignition, the first thing you do is check for spark. If the spark is crisp and blueish white, the ignition is most likely good and you can move on to other things. To check the reeds, you need to remove the carb and intake manifold. Your service manual will tell you how to do this, and what to look for. Basically, the reeds should fit flush against the reed cage and not have any cracks or fraying. ( get a service manual if you don't already have one!)

I see from an earlier post that you just put a new carb on the bike. Was the work done by a shop or did you do it yourself? I am most curious to know if the carb was properly set-up. Was the float height set correctly? Was the jetting the same as the old carb? If these things were not checked, they need to be.
 

Dirtykid

Member
Jul 8, 2002
67
0
I installed the carb myself, and i had originally thought the jetting had been done previously, but later found out that it wasnt, I havent checked the float level, but I adjusted the idle and air screw which seem to be back to normal(the air was way off), and the bike sounds normal and runs normal until I shut it off and leave it for a couple minutes, then it just doesnt start anymore, but Ill check the reeds and float level today, ignition seems to be good.
 

Dirtykid

Member
Jul 8, 2002
67
0
Jetting maybe, 2000 RM 125

Yes its me again, still working on getting the old girl running. This time I come to you with a possible jetting problem. I installed my new carb, and it wouldnt run (unless i jump started it), and then i got some fresh gas and mixed properly, and that helped. So my bike when cold starts perfectly one kick and shes going, so i ripped it up and down my street, then when i let it sit for a few minutes it wont start (when its hot), unless i kick it and give it some gas then it starts, but it revs really low and almost dies, so i rev it up a bit and it goes back to normal.

So I set my air screw to 3 turns out which seems to be the best, my manual suggests not putting the air screw more than 2 and half turns out, i was wondering if it is bad to leave it at 3 ?

I checked the plug and it was burnt white, but still sparking good. I dont know what to do, sure my bike runs good when cold, but I think it might be overheating a bit, adn I dont want to take it to the trails cause i dont trust it will keep running.

Please help.

THanks
 

zookieman

Member
Jul 7, 2003
118
0
hey man your alll over the richter scale! take a deep breath and be systematic on how you do thing, and report things to us. choke! jetting! carb! gas! WOW Start from the beginning... (gas, air, spark,). You have to rule things out by the numbers. Are you fowling plugs out? Are your plugs black? TOO RICH! . If to rich you can start with air flow. Is something restricting air flow? If it runs good with choke then you may be too lean. NEED MORE GAS! Im not trying to be a smart A$$ but you can change 1million thing to get it right and not find the soloution. If your systematic about it youll be A OK!
 

bruce j

Member
Dec 14, 2001
111
0
So how was that float level you were going to check? And how does the jetting compare between the new carb and what was in the old carb? If you just took the new carb out of the box and slapped it on without checking anything, you NEED to go back and do it NOW. If you have already checked, my apologies, but you still need to tell us so we can rule those things out. By what you say, it sounds like the bike is running seriously lean and is at risk of seizing. By the way, by jetting I mean main jet, pilot jet, needle jet, jet needle, clip position, and slide, not just idle mixture. It's quite possible that the carb you have is jetted for a completely different bike, the best way to check is to compare these jets to the ones in the old carb (assuming the bike did run well at one time with the old carb) . If your not sure how to check this stuff, say so!
 

Dirtykid

Member
Jul 8, 2002
67
0
uhhhhhh, i know how to check the main jet, jet needle, but those other ones i have no clue, i dont know how to get the slow jet and other ones out (what tool) ??

Im pretty sure it should have the proper jets, because when i bought the store was supposed give me the one for my model and year of bike, whatever that means though i dont trust anyone anymore. The float level i dont know where to measure from where to where, the stupid manual is so vague, its stupid.

Oh ya and last time I rode out the deceleration was really strange, it was like stuttering whenever i was not giving it gas.

thanks for bearing with me everyone.
 

bruce j

Member
Dec 14, 2001
111
0
If the store got the right carb for you, the jetting should be close, but I know I would check them, just to be sure. Even if the jetting is good, you still need to set the float level to make the bike run properly.

I suspect the manual you have is the Owner's Manual. What you need is a Service Manual, it will give you a lot more information.

You don't need any special tools to check the jets, just make sure you use screwdrivers that fit the slots, the jets are made of brass and are easily damaged. You will have to take the carb off the bike again to check things. It might be a good idea to work on the old carb first, to get an idea how things come apart and go back together.

The slide is the piece that the throttle cable attaches to. It will have a number stamped on it somewhere that you can compare to the old one .

To check the pilot jet you need to take the float bowl off. You will have to do this anyway to check the float level. the pilot will be to the side of the main jet, down inside a hole. You will need a long, skinny screwdriver that fits the slot in the bottom of the jet. Again, there will be a number stamped on it. If the main, pilot, jet needle and slide are the same then I wouldn't worry about the needle jet.

To set the float level, you turn the carb upside down and measure the distance from a point on the float arms to a flat point on the carb body. You set this measurement by bending the float arms (carefully!). The exact measuring points and distance you will have to figure out from the manual or you could ask someone at a bike shop.

This stuff isn't really hard, but it's difficult to explain it in complete detail over the internet. It's much better to have someone who has experience with carbs show you what to do.
 

Mr. Clean

~SPONSOR~
Nov 8, 2001
162
0
I have a theory. The bike had not been started for a while as you said in your first post. The float is gummed up causing it to flood when it is not running which makes it hard to start and run funny when you restart. Then when it cleans, out the jets are partially restricted which causes the other symptoms you described. Completely disassemble the carb., soak it about 30 minutes in carb. cleaner and reassemble. Pay particular attention to the pilot/slow jet and the inriching/choke circuit. Hope this helps!

Mr. clean
 

Dirtykid

Member
Jul 8, 2002
67
0
I have been busy lately so i havent had much time to work on bike, I havent disassembled my carb yet cause i dont have the right screw driver set to do it, i need to go buy that, but when i do im gonna try soaking it, I hope it works if not shes going to the shop, thanks alot for all the help.
 

Dirtykid

Member
Jul 8, 2002
67
0
I dont have my car yet so i just go around an old golf course near my house, its not really anything that good, but Chateauguay has some trails some of my friends have been, they said theres alot sand stuff, and some jumps.
 

Dirtykid

Member
Jul 8, 2002
67
0
**Brucej please read**

I finally got time to work on my bike and made some serious progress in discovering some problems with my jetting. I made this little table to compare my old carb settings to the new one and the owners manual suggestions.

Manuals Says: Main = #175 Jet needle = R1469LS (clip at 4) Slow Jet = #50
and Power Jet = #55 (dont know how to get to the power jet ??)

My old carb was: Main = #178 Jet needle = same as manual Slow Jet = #50 and the slide was #6

My new carb is: Main = #152(big difference) Jet needle = DDJ (clip 3) Slow Jet = #48 and the slide was #7

--> And the gas mixture should be 32:1 according to manual.

So since I was running too lean I swapped my Slow jet with my old one making it to spec with manual (#50), and I also swapped my old needle which was at the 4th clip position, and I found that my bike was running too rich.

Then I took out the old jet needle and put in the new one at the 3rd clip, and kept the old Slow jet (#50), and found that it didnt really make much of a difference, it was still running rich.

I wanted to swap my old main jet but unfortunately the thread broke when i took out (??), and I find that if I adjust my air screw to 3 or more turns out my bike sounds and runs normal, but I think thats bad isnt it ?

Oh ya and i checked my float level and it was fine. What should i do, my bike also produces alot of blueish smoke, the spark is blue and nice, its just that the spark plug get black and moist (symptons of too rich i think), so do you think it might be due to the #152 main jet?

Could somone tell me how to change the jet needle clip, i dont know how to take it off I dont want to break it, maybe if i adjusted that it would help.

Thanks alot everybody whos been helping me out,

Dirtykid
 

Welcome to DRN

No trolls, no cliques, no spam & newb friendly. Do it.

Top Bottom