Stock Sprockets for rm250, and some trail mods?

250girl · Jul 14, 2009

My first question is, what is the stock sprocket set up for a 2000 rm250? I am currently running (I think) 12 on the front, and 49 on the back.

I'm currently very frustrated. I've been riding lately with this guy on a wr450. While we're on the goatrails, I'm bouncing off trees and catwalking up steep hills totally out of control while he negotiates it with no spinning, catwalking or tree smacking. Then we get out on the logging road and he can leave me behind in the dust while I'm in 5th gear pinned. He is driving me nuts :bang:
I think his bike is magic. He can go so slow on the tight nasty trails, his bike never does anything rude or random. And then just FLY down the open roads.

So, how can I make my RM faster on the logging roads, but give it some manners on the tight steep windy trails? I'm tempted to change the sprockets for more speed, but that would make it even ruder on the nasty trails, I struggle with them enough allready. I was thinking of upgrading to a 450, so I rode this wr450. It was an incredible bike, but wayy to heavy for me. It handles like an oil tanker, just about rode it off a corner. Nothing corners like my fence rail thin RM. All you have to do is think about turning and it just carves the corner like nothing. No way I'm giving that up.

So, any suggestions on how to make my bike faster... yet more handleable?

julien_d · Jul 14, 2009

For the tight stuff, a flywheel weight would probably help a lot. My experience with RM250's makes me hate the clutch they run. It's like a light switch, on/off. You really need that clutch on the climbs to help moderate the power and control wheel spin. I read a bit on them and it seems a common complaint, with no real fix.

I'd say gear it back up for speed to help you with the logging roads and such, and look for a flywheel weight to make it more controllable when the going is tight...

RM_guy · Jul 14, 2009

It's already geared low. The stock gearing is 13/48 (as far as I could find) so your top speed will be limited unless you go back to stock. How much money do you want to spend? A 10-11 oz flywheel weight would really help in the tight stuff and some Carbon Tech low end reeds would help with the low end. To really help you need some porting. Eric Gore's Mo Power Everywhere with the reeds and flywheel weight and the stock gearing will make the most difference.

Spend your money on porting instead of a pipe to get better power. A pipe will just move the power around where porting will give you more overall power.

jsantapau · Jul 14, 2009

250girl said:
.

So, how can I make my RM faster on the logging roads, but give it some manners on the tight steep windy trails? I'm tempted to change the sprockets for more speed, but that would make it even ruder on the nasty trails, I struggle with them enough allready..

So, any suggestions on how to make my bike faster... yet more handleable?

going back to gearing for more top speed may in fact help you a little in the tighter stuff,Giving you a smidgen more time in between each shift and taking away(a little) the mechanical advantage the engine has over the rear tire. For 15$ I would go back the 13 tooth front sprocket and give it a shot first.

One of the hardest things for me to learn was throttle control and riding for myself. dont think about trying to catch up to the other bike ,think smooth,think throttle control. It was actually difficult for me to realize that when I nailed the throttle and then nailed a tree I was untimately a heck of a lot slower in a section then if I just coasted thru it

sr5bidder · Jul 14, 2009

One of the hardest things for me to learn was throttle control and riding for myself. dont think about trying to catch up to the other bike said:
:cool: right on with that man...smooth is fast!!

also spending the money to get the suspension set for the woods and not the track would help control the whaling around. if you truelly want the rm lightness with a friendly power plant for the woods look at the kdx200. while still a 2 stroke you can lug it up hills and such similar to a four stroke.

the kdx is not perfect but for the wieght advantage its worth the extra clutch work

RM_guy · Jul 14, 2009

Throttle control only goes so far if the bike's power delivery is to snappy. Fix both and you're good to go.

dirt bike dave · Jul 14, 2009

The new 450's make excellent trail bikes, but I think with a little attention to detail, the RM can be made much better for you.

First, as mentioned, the 13t front sprocket will definintely help top speed and will probably help for tight trails, too. On super low speed, nasty trails first gear might be a little too tall and require more clutch work, but it will be better that a 12t everywhere else, IMO.

Another cheap thing you can do to help smooth your bike's hit is to fatten up the jetting a little. Start by turning in the airscrew a 1/2 turn. Some bikes a very sensitive to airscrew adjustment, and this could subdue the hit quite a bit, without hurting top end power.

FWW would be money well spent, IMO.

Playing with your clickers and sag is free and could pay huge benefits. For trail work, most people like less high speed compression damping. Makes the bike more plush and confidence inspiring in the rocks/roots.

After that, steering damper and suspension work can totally transform a bike, but I'd only spend that kind of coin on a 10 year old bike if you really loved the bike and planned on keeping it a long long time.

250girl · Jul 14, 2009

julien_d said:
My experience with RM250's makes me hate the clutch they run. It's like a light switch, on/off....

That explains my clutch perfectly. I am used to it now and quite like it, but it can be very difficult in tight situations. Lots of stalling if you aren't very careful with it. My friend tried to ride my rm the other day, stalled it 7 times and popped a wheelie trying to get going... he won't ride it now. I've had dad fiddle around with it, but thats just seems to be the way it is.

As for suspension, it's very stiff. Just had it rebuilt (rear shock rebuild, for seals) and it has an aftermarket extra-stiff spring in it, so the suspension guy set it as soft as he could. But it's still really stiff for me. I just found a box in the shed the other day that came with my bike, and it appears to have the stock springs for the suspension. It might be worth putting those back in.

I allready have an FMF Gnarly on it but a stock silencer. I'm prety sure the reeds are stock too, but I haven't looked since I got the bike. Would like to go for some new reeds, try the 13 tooth sprocket, and maybe an FMF shorty. Will maybe consider a flywheel weight too. Just have to price these things out, the flywheel weight might be pricey, but worth it.

As for buying a KDX or different bike, it isn't going to happen. I got my RM for my 16th B-Day from Mom and Dad and I love it to pieces. It even has pink rhinestones, spiky bracelets on the bars, girly stickers.... yeah..... it's my baby. Love the way it handles, just not the way it slams me into trees and fishtails.

Allright, I have to go back and re-read all these suggestions agian, so I can go whine to dad to do it all for me :)

Thanks again guys

jsantapau · Jul 15, 2009

a fly wheel weight is money well spent if you like the amount of power you have but just want to slow its reaction time a bit.

don't know if these are viable options but,here are a few more cheap ways; back off the ignition timing(softens midrange hit and spreads it more towards top end), thinner base gasket, thicker head gasket (lowers port timing for more bottom end ,lessens compression for less hit). Now Suzuki spent millions at the time to build a race horse and these 20$ modifications will not make it a work horse but it could kill the edge off in the right spot to make it more friendly. And you are not altering anything that you can't easily go back to stock with.

"That explains my clutch perfectly. I am used to it now and quite like it, but it can be very difficult in tight situations. Lots of stalling if you aren't very careful with it. "

a flywheel weight could easily help with the stalling but not the light switch clutch, make sure the baskets aren't notched, possible steel plates, all the metal plates chamfered edges towards the center of the bike.

julien_d · Jul 15, 2009

"That explains my clutch perfectly. I am used to it now and quite like it, but it can be very difficult in tight situations. Lots of stalling if you aren't very careful with it. "

a flywheel weight could easily help with the stalling but not the light switch clutch, make sure the baskets aren't notched, possible steel plates, all the metal plates chamfered edges towards the center of the bike.

Every RM250 I've ever ridden has a clutch like that. People replace the baskets with hinson, use higher end clutch kits, softer springs, nothing I've read so far makes a notable difference. Doing a little quick searching on it and you will find endless topics about those clutches, and always the same thing...

I think that's one thing that could be looked at though. I would LOVE an RM250 for woods riding if I could find a way to get some action outta that darn clutch. There HAS to be a way....

flyinzuki · Jul 15, 2009

I have two of those bikes.
Try running Rotella 15/40 oil, and change it often.
I've gotten the best clutch action with this.
I run 13/49 in the woods and on the track.
A flywheel weight will do you well.
The gnarly pipe may be making the power delivery hit to hard down low.
I run the SST pipe and it pulls smooth and hard from low to top.
As RM guy said the low tension reeds help bottom.
Don't be afraid to turn the power valve preload spring in either direction 1/8 of a turn to see how it effects power.
I run a 120/90-19 rear tire with HD tubes, the extra mass might help to smooth the power delivery.
Throw in the stock spring set the sag to 100.
Bleed the forks often, speedbleeders would be a good investment.

I have let others try my bike and they cannot beleive i ride it in the woods.
It is no doubt at home on a MX track.
I'm currently returning mine back to MX duty, as I now have a new Husqvarna WR300 for the woods.

helio lucas · Jul 16, 2009

http://www.eric-gorr.com/model tuning tips.pdf
page 18

doesn´t that bike work on this way? a little rounding on the clutch lever might improve the on\off feel and could feel lighterto pull.

russdaddy · Jul 17, 2009

LOL dont be a baby and conquer your bike haha,if i can do it so can you.Or you could always get yourself a cute little ttr lol im jk.

russdaddy · Jul 18, 2009

lol i was just playin with ya,thats what you get for trash talking after i bailed.

250girl · Jul 18, 2009

Russ, just because you want a little TT-R so you handle it and feel more like a man doesn't mean I want one :nener:

And I wasn't trash talking you, I was just pointing out that your bike is too big for you. You need something smaller..... would suit you better.

russdaddy · Jul 18, 2009

lol ya ya,you should get urself a nice skid plate :cool:

whenfoxforks-ruled · Jul 18, 2009

A flywheel weight? Why not drag around a car engine chained to the bike? Where is your exhaust valve preload adjusted to now? Reeds, silencer packing, jet it, new tires, and set up the suspension. For x-mas get a big bore!

Stock Sprockets for rm250, and some trail mods?

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