I have a 2003 KDX220 with about 100 miles on it and I notice that that front wheel tends to wash out if pushed too hard. My riding buddies, who have the same bike, notice it too. I have the stock Dunlop 739 front tire that is still in decent shape and it's set at 14psi and the rear suspension sag is set at 4.00 inches. I have installed the heavier fork springs as well. This is essentially the same set up as my friend's have on their bikes with the only difference being the tire. Could the tire be the problem? I have always heard good things about the Dunlop 739 or is there something else that I might be missing? I could raise the fork tubes up in the triple clamps, but it doesn't seem right that I should have to do that if my buddies bikes don't require it. Any thoughts on this issue are appreciated.
Streering Problem
- Thread starter m304051
- Start date
- Jan 8, 2000
- 3,331
- 1
Fork oil. Check the level of your fork oil.
Gotta agree with Jason on this. Keep on top of the gas tank when cornering and get rid of that stock tire. I run the Mich S12 and don't seem to have a problem unles I get lazy and stay in the center of the saddle. Do a search on tire recommendations or check out some of the other forums on tire choices. Four inches of sag is quite a bit for some riding styles. Try stiffening it up to only 3.5 and see what happens. It's free and may solve your problem. Also, make sure you set up your suspension comp and rebound adjustments. I was miserable until I discovered I was only a couple of clicks away from happiness.
canyncarvr
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
- 0
Soften the compression setting (fewer clicks in).
Try 110mm on your fork oil level.
What's the preload set to? Around 10mm is probably close to what it should be. If you used the oem spacers (and a 470mm spring) you're in the 35mm area. Way too much.
Lose some air.
Try 110mm on your fork oil level.
What's the preload set to? Around 10mm is probably close to what it should be. If you used the oem spacers (and a 470mm spring) you're in the 35mm area. Way too much.
Lose some air.
So...having too much preload would make the front wheel washout?
A few months ago when I had my forks serviced I had the tech measure the springs, washers, spacers etc. He calculated that I have 22 mms of preload.
Also, what other handling characteristics could be contributed to too much preload?
m304051 - sorry, I didn't mean to hijack your thread. :(
Chuck
A few months ago when I had my forks serviced I had the tech measure the springs, washers, spacers etc. He calculated that I have 22 mms of preload.
Also, what other handling characteristics could be contributed to too much preload?
m304051 - sorry, I didn't mean to hijack your thread. :(
Chuck
- Thread starter
- #10
Since originating this thread, I tried different things. I didn't want to throw away the front tire quite yet so it's still there. I did reduce the air pressure a bit to 13psi in the front and 12psi in the rear. The terrain around here is hard to set a happy medium tire pressure for because it's either all mud, or all rocks. I also raised the forks up in the clamps a quarter inch and reduced my sag in the rear to three and a half inches from the original four. Since doing all this, the problem seems to have gone away. I still plan on going to a different tire as soon as it gets a little more worn. Thanks for all the great info and suggestions!
canyncarvr
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
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What keeps the front tire 'in the groove' is pressure against the ground brought about by rebound action.
You gots no compression (too stiff for whatever reason), you gots no rebound.
Too stiff a front end will stick you in ruts (front-end won't give enough to ride the edge up-and-out) and dump you on downhills (for pretty much the same reason...not enough 'give' or 'soak up', if you will, in the frontend).
Spring rate, valve set-up, oil level, gas pressure (forks not bled), preload.....all of them have an effect (gee...'ya think?). When they all work as they should, it's a lot more fun!!!
You gots no compression (too stiff for whatever reason), you gots no rebound.
Too stiff a front end will stick you in ruts (front-end won't give enough to ride the edge up-and-out) and dump you on downhills (for pretty much the same reason...not enough 'give' or 'soak up', if you will, in the frontend).
Spring rate, valve set-up, oil level, gas pressure (forks not bled), preload.....all of them have an effect (gee...'ya think?). When they all work as they should, it's a lot more fun!!!
Try a D756 or the old D752. I hated that stocker on mine. I ran the 739 in the first few hare scrambles that I raced the year I bought my KDX200. I'm a 185lb B rider, so I had the forks and shock done by Pro-Action (great local shop for the PA crowd) soon after I bought the bike. The 739 sucked, it was great in the hardpack, but as soon as I hit mud, or wet hardpack, it would wash out without notice. It took one DNF (after washing out in a turn that followed a mud hole, breaking my clutch perch, while I was in 4th) before I switched front meats. I now run the D756 in normal conditions (for western PA) and the old D752s when it is sloppy. Dramatic difference. Also, I had similar feelings about the stock K695, I currently run straight D756s in the rear, and love em'. You should also check and adjust your tire pressure before each ride. I usualy run 13.5psi for normal cond. and around 10-12, depending on how wet it is.
Hope this helps, Best of luck,
-Nick
Hope this helps, Best of luck,
-Nick
