Swingarm Bearing!

[canyncarvr]

That or some other material. Maybe summa that high density molecular compound (or whatever it's called) would do well.

If you find one with the right spec (I've looked for bushings, but they weren't plastic), let us know?

There would be a choice to keep the sleeve (less thick bushing) or use just the bolt (thicker bushing, but larger impact angle (smaller hole).

Got one in mind?

 

[wibby]

Well the ol' KDX is still in pieces, still waiting for a new bearing to ship, since I FUBAR'd one of 'em!

I hope I can figure out where all those parts in those two mason jars go... :think:

I can't believe how easy and effortless the bearings go in and out with that arbor press I bought! (at the time I was not sure it would even work, but I bought it anyway, 'cuz I'm a tool nut!)

Another thing.... When I was working on the shock, the manual says to use a steel valve stem cap to grip with your pliers, to aid in removing the bladder. Well, I used the nut off the old inner tube I just replaced, so I wouldn't have to ruin my one steel cap.

I replaced the back tire too, all by myself, that was a first for me... soapy water sure makes a difference! Fixed all my froze-up spoke nipples too.

 

[DVO]

Sorry, but I just can't leave this alone.
I didn't say to bore through the sleeve. In fact, I said personally, I wouldn't do it, it's unnecessary. If you want to get grease to the bearings, the best way (IMO) is to zerk through the swing-arm. The pivot bolt would be zerked to get grease to where the bolt and sleeves meet simply to prevent seizing. It's simple enough and looking at the parts diagram, easy enough to understand.
As far as following the path of least resistance, naturally the grease wants to exit through one particluar side. But when I apply a little pressure with my 6" prybar and nudge the s-arm to one side, I get the grease to come out the other side. NO BEARING IS LEFT UNFLUSHED/UNLUBED.
In the end, if anyone tries it and for some unknown reason decides they don't like it, they can simply ignore the zerks and go back to the sledge, torch, local shop, rapped knuckles and then come on line and tell me why they don't like it. Sure, if it's taken apart every couple of months the bolt may not seize, and the bearings may not wear prematurely. But why on earth would you want to take it apart if you don't have to,-the satisfaction of knowing it's clean and well lubricated? I get that every time I plug on my grease-gun.

 

[wibby]

So how do you know your bearings are not shot if you don't take it apart?

I'd rather take it apart once a season, at least I'll know for sure. I can't see how zerkin' it is gonna force any grease in the bearing, but hey to each his own or however it goes
(but if ya wanna argue on it more.... please go start your own thread, 'cuz I don't wanna have to post that "Arguing On The Internet" picture again and get all the P.C. folks down in Alabama mad at me again!) :laugh:



BTW I doubt I'll have to use the sledge next time, I'd bet those bearings have been in there since '92

 

[canyncarvr]

If you don't wanna leave it alone.......me neither.

I didn't say your method or procedure was a problem (notwithstanding the initial write-up).

I did say:

• I'm not taking exception to the process as a whole..
• I have no question that properly applied grease through a fitting will lessen if not prevent bearing/sleeve damage ..

Some have recommended drilling through the sleeve or zerking the pivot bolt and not doing anything to the sleeve...and they think they have accomplished something.

That was the whole point. I am without understanding of the continued defense of your position with no exception having been taken to your method.

Methinks thou dost protest too much.

Cheers!

 

[Houndog]

Just give in Canyncarvr, put nipples on your bike and send us pictures :)

 

[canyncarvr]

I likely shall....and it will work, too, because it will be done in a fashion that will accomplish the purpose.

.....as soon as I find a source for hydrotex parasyn 70....and I'm looking. Timken lists it, but I have yet to get the pdf to load.

 

[89kdx200rdr]

this pdf cc? http://www.timken.com/industries/industrial/pdf/powerlubricatorcatalog.pdf

 

[fxmatt]

Wibby,
Could you send me the part # of the bearing driver set @ harborfreight.
Thanks

 

[JasonWho]

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[wibby]

I don't have a part # for it, and couldn't find it on the site either. It used to be on the site...

 

[fxmatt]

I think the part number for the Bushing Bearing set is 38145-1AWA

 

[JasonWho]

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[mlhend1]

where did you buy the bearing? Is it a sealed bearing that doesn't go dry all the time like the stock bearing?

 

[wibby]

Wibby,
Could you send me the part # of the bearing driver set @ harborfreight.

Yes, wibby, please post the number. I tried to look on their web site, but couldn't find it.

Better late than never!

P42274 or 92363 42274



Doin' a little cleaning out in the shop, found the original box! :clue:

 

[louis]

I keep those 12 point sockets in my tackle box. Great sinkers.