Time for a new chain?

[Jackpiner57]

It appears that it's time to buy a new chain. I'm at 7 1/2 on the adjuster, and it's almost time to go to 8. This is the original chain and sprockets.

I'd like to get a good one that won't stretch too much. Probably an O-ring type.

The sprockets look OK, so should I use them? :think:

Any suggestions on the best chain?

 

[D36-108A]

Regina ORS. Replace your sprockets.

 

[Braahp]

Yes replace it all at same time. In my experience the Renthal stretched the least. Yeah its more $$ but has waaayyyy outlasted my sprockets each time.

 

[Jaybird]

If there is no visible damage to the sprocket teeth, there is no need to change them. However, I doubt this is truely the case if your chain has stretched that much...

Only three things will ruin a sprocket....bad adjustment, debris, a chain that has a pitch that is over 2% past stock length. If your sprocket teeth show wear, your chain is junk...don't kid yourself into thinking your chain is outlasting your worn sprockets. (It aint so, Braahp.)

A man who cleans/lubes/adjusts properly can have just as long of life out of a cheap chain and sprocket set as the guy who pays mucho bucks for a chain set.

 

[Braahp]

I always change them all at once even though the sprockets show wear. I should have said the Renthal has stretched the leaset of any chain I have had.

 

[Jackpiner57]

The sprocket teeth look good. I can't see any asymetrical evidence.

I clean it and lube it every time before I ride, but when I get home from riding it always squeaks because the water,and mud and thrashing it dry it out pretty well. Last weekend my ride was 67 miles through hell and high water.

I was using PJ-1 and recently bought some Polaris chain lube. That was what I used last weekend.

I'll probably just replace both the sprockets and chain.

 

[01HondaCR]

I too am about ready for a new chain and sprokets. It has been stretching especially fast lately. I'm guessing once it starts stretching that it just keeps going. I would like some recommendations on sprokets. I know the whole deal about aluminum is lighter but doesnt last as long while steel is a bit heavier but lasts three times longer. I dont have the money for any fancy titanium or anything like that and I'm no pro so aluminum is not important to me. I just want one that will last, take a beating, and keep on ticking. I've seen the ads about some laser cut sprokets or something that sounded pretty good but havent heard anything about them. I think they were $120. That would be alright with me if they lasted long enough. I also notice that my sprokets and hubs look cruddy. Im guessing its that excess chain lube on them has caused dirt to stick to them but it wont come off either of them. Anyone know why this is or how to keep my new ones from getting like this?

 

[Y2Z]

of money isnt a big factor, ide get an X-ring, i bought on and they are great

 

[Jaybird]

01HondaCR,
Steel lasts longer than aluminum, but it will ruin your chain faster than aluminum also. Bottom line is that any sprocket needs to be of the same pitch as the chain. If the chain is stretched, it will want to deform the sprocket. If the sprocket is too tough and resists this deformation, it transfers the wear back to the chain itself.

The crud you have on the sprockets and things is due to the fact that the lube you are using attracts dirt and makes a hard to clean paste out of it.
Dry a dry-film lube and that problem goes away. Many dry-films will have a solvent base and will actually help to clean the friction surfaces as it's applied.

Wax, or tacky parfin based products, are the worst things you can use. They don't get where they need to go, they dry to a sticky crappy mess, and they have less lubricity than other lubes. Might as well lube with Elmers glue if you use wax.

 

[Rich Graham]

For many years I have used the combo of Sunstar steel(F&R) and a D.I.D. Vector O-Ring chain. Never a failure,low maintenence, and good prices. It should be mentioned that for the KDX, I buy slightly more chain and run the adjusters out to gain a little wheelbase. If you have to adjust an o-ring chain more than two notches during its' life, it's junk. Clean only with kerosene and light brushing, it'll last forever.

 

[svtrb]

Just curious, have you noticed any difference with the wheel moved back. Sounds like a great idea. I was thinking about buying a new chain just for that reason.

 

[JCW]

In my humble opinion, buy anything but a Regina (DID or Renthal)

 

[maco]

Good post-I deal with a lot of mud and wet weather.I decided to go steel for longevity and the mud.I always,well almost,get anal on cleaning the chain after I ride.I went with regina Gold non O ring.Thought it might give better horsepower but Don't think it does.Anywho it's held up real good.I nylon brush my chain and back sproket with S green toget as much of the grime off.Then I WD the chain.AT some point I Lube the chain before I ride with Belray and try not to over do it.If I do it attracts more dirt like someone said.I too found the waxy chain lube a pain.I get off on maintaining my bike but try not to go out of my way to make it difficult.For the Mainland I would probably go O ring,seems like the way to go.

 

[GREER RACING]

I use a Regina O-Ring chain with Sprocket Specialists sprockets and lube with WD-40 only. When I clean the chain I use Purple Power and a nylon brush. I spray the chain with WD-40 after washing and before riding. Have had very good results with this combo. Also, there is very little build-up of dirt with the WD-40 and you will also find that it is worlds easier to clean.

Gary

 

[Jackpiner57]

Well, I got a better look at my sprockets after cleaning out all the mud and vegetation.

The countershaft sprocket shows hooked teeth. Junk.
The rear shows some wear. Junk.
The chain is like a squeaky snake of a thing. Junk.

Solution: El Cheapo! (wince)

Rather than buy the best, I got:

Countershaft sprocket - $6.99
Rear sprocket - $14.99
DID Standard chain, 108 links - $28.99
Master link - $1.98

I saved enough to buy:

MSR V-Top knee pads
MSR Elbow D-Flectors
Answer Dry Ride Socks
Lower Chain Roller
Bel-Ray Super Clean Chain Lube

I guess I'm pretty frugal. Not as frugal as those Mainers that use ear wax for lip balm, but at least my elbows and knees are protected now.

And my chain guide bolt is only sawed about halfway through, so I don't have to replace that yet.

 

[jaguar]

I had an o-ring DID chain but it was always kinky, like some links never lost their newish tightness. It made it hard to set the chain slack correctly.
Then I changed to a RK o-ring chain which has been great but the other day I was trying to figure out why when rotating the rear wheel the chain slackness varied. Finally I was able to see that when the master link was on the rear sprocket that is when the chain was the tightest. Could the master link have closer pins than the other links?
(a couple weeks later: Found out about 10 links near the master link have either shucked their rollers or the rollers deformed. Not good, RK)

 

[Jaybird]

Doubt that the master is different dimensionaly from the other links. Take it apart and see if there is not oxidation and crud on the master link pins.

Folks who keep their o-ring chains on even in good weather have to be ready for the truth. And the truth is, that even one link that has damaged rings can send your whole drive set-up into an early tailspin. Once it happens, there is no way to make it better, save for another purchase.

 

[XRDadKDXBeni]

Jackpiner: what brand sprockets and chain did you get and where did you get them?

 

[Jackpiner57]

They are on rockymountainatv.com I'm not sure of the make, but it said OEM specs. The chain is a DID Standard chain.

The original set lasted one season (no winter riding)

 

[89kdx200rdr]

jag i just put on an rk o-ring chain and noticed the master link was hard to get in with both ends of the chain on the rear sprocket. i thought that was weird but really got disappointed when the masterlink scrubbed going thru the chain guard. back to a regular chain for me.

 

[jaguar]

I think that all masterlinks on o-ring chains are wider by 2 o-ring widths. But yeah, that RK masterlink was the hardest I've ever had to get together. I wind up using a rotary tool to grind on the pins to make them skinnier so the masterlink plate would go on (not loosely).
If you ride in the mud though you really need an o-ring chain since it will outlast a normal one 2-3 times longer.
I just took my chain guide off and found it wasn't even necessary. My floppy old RK didn't derail when practicing MX that way. The only advantage I can see to them is riding in rocks.