Time for another chain/sprockets

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#17
Yarb, you asked,

Big Stoppy- Did you have any interference problems with the chain slider?
I didn't have a problem because I normally run the axle in the rear section of the swingarm which gives a little more space for the larger sprocket, chain guide, and the chain. I dont think I could go to a 56 toother without installing an aftermarket guide, though.
 

yarbonwick

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#18
Great thanks, that's what I needed to know.
 

yarbonwick

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#19
Big Stoppy

Man I don't know how you run the axle to the rear. With the 54 I have a problem with too short or too long. If I took only two links out, the axle was very near all the way to the rear, leaving chain stretch adjustment next to nil. Taking another link out, made it short. I had to run the adjusters almost all the way in to make it work and will probably need to purchase an aftermarket chain guide. After riding to check my suspension, I noticed that the guides rubber was rubbing the top portion of the chain. Anybody have any recommendations? Fredette? Moose? Etc.
 

Jaybird

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#20
Yarbonwick,
Don't you have eccentric chain blocks on that orange beast?
 

RedRider4

#21
Jaybird,

Did you lose a lot of top end when you went from 13/50 to 13/52? Or was it not really noticeable? I was thinking about putting a 51 or 52 on the back but was afraid I'd lose a lot of top end! Could you tell a huge difference in bottom end torque? Let me know. Thanks!
 

yarbonwick

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#22
Originally posted by Jaybird
Yarbonwick,
Don't you have eccentric chain blocks on that orange beast?
How do you mean?
 

Jaybird

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#23
RedRider4,
I noticed no loss of top at all, of course I ride mainly on groomed track and never use top gear on the track. You won't notice any change in top at all, but I did notice a nice change in bottom. See, I also don't use low gear either. I start in 2nd gear and use it for my low Always. Only time I ever see first gear is if I screw up and go there. 2nd is fine now that I have the 52t rear.
yarbonwick, My sx has eccentric chain blocks on the axle. It allows me to turn the block around and use a shorter adjustment bolt for the same position once the chain is long. In other words, it strengthens the adjustment. Without the block, a long chain would not only have the axle in the rear position, but the adjustment bolts would be taxed out to the end of their travel as well. Not a good thing. The eccentric block cures this situation. I thought ALL KTM's had 'em. (shrug) If you do, in fact, have these blocks on your bike, try experimenting with turning them around.
I thought I would add this for ya yarbon.....I bought a Sidewinder SS chain witht their hardned aluminum rear and chrome-moly front. I've got about 20 hours on em and I have only adjusted the bolt about 1/2 turn TOTAL! I know you are going to hear alot of remarks about the overpriced Sidewinder stuff, but being a man who uses roller chains to make a living, I can tell you that Krause has the right approach to roller chain and sprockets. The keys to happy chains and sprockets are:
  • Proper chain tension
  • Proper lubrication
  • Close tolerances of materials
of course hardned, machined sprockets don't hurt :D
 
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yarbonwick

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#25
Jaybird I didn't realize what you were talking about and took a look. My 2000 does have what you speak. I could turn them around and use them. Wish I would have thought of that before.

RedRider4: Lost lots. But I wasn't worried about that.