Touchy rear brake

[Colorado Mike]

I've got a 2004 KDX 220 and the rear brake is like an auxillary kill switch. I ride a lot of steep rocky trails and if I touch the thing, it locks. I was thinking about putting an air bubble in the line, but that seems to be just a little smarter than greasing the brake pads :laugh: . I'm not buying a $500 auto-clutch, so any tips on making the brake more progressive would be welcomed.
Thanks,
Mike.

 

[cr2504life]

What about different brake pads. I know that there are types that wear a long time but don't grip great and pads that grip great but dont' last. I think it is the metallic pads that last a long time but im not sure.

 

[Colorado Mike]

That's an idea, the way this thing locks, I think I need teflon pads.

Mike.

 

[rbernie]

I have a '04 KDX200, and I have exactly the same issue. I've been thinking of vertically grooving the rear pad, to decrease the friction area of the pad. Dunno if this will work, but I figured that it was a cheap experiment (both cheap to do and cheap to fix if it doesn't work).

 

[John Harris]

I had the same problem(S) and decided that I was most of the problem. "It is always the rider and not the motorcycle." I adjusted the travel of the hydraulic activator on the rear brake pedal, which is located above and behind the foot peg so that the pedal traveled further before it "put on the brake". I sound confusing as possible, but it is very simple. Just look at how it works when you put on the rear brake (activate it with your hand so you can see what happens). After the adjustment (and I used up most available) the pedal goes further before the brake is activated and this arrangement give you more control and you are much less likely to lock the rear! Cheers John

 

[Nice Guy Eddie]

I had the same problem and decided I was most of the problem. I adjusted the travel of my foot when I hit the brakes and now I don't have that problem.

I don't suggest sintering your brake pads (cutting lines into them) unless you are an engineer with all the proper data and machinery, or work in a shop that does this type of alteration.... You may end up degrading your pads so that they work fine, but then fall apart when you REALLY need them.

I learned long ago to appreciate very sensitive brakes, because they allow you more control and require less work from you... but they are a pain until you get used to them....

There is a possibility that your brakes are malfunctioning, but from what you describe I don't think so... get used to it and you'll be glad you did (on that looooong steeeeep drop where you don't have to have your foot ginked to keep on the brake)

 

[Wolf]

I never had that problem until I switched to EBC pads. Now I have either full lock or nothing.
I am going to get the moose pads again, they seemed to work great.

 

[hockeyboy]

I have the same problem on my 2004 KDX 220. It would lock up and kill the engine going down steep hills. I adjusted the brake pedal to allow more movement, I increased the idle, and installed a flywheel weight. It still sometimes stalls going downhill. But it is somewhat better. I just thought it had tricky brakes.

 

[Sandy Whoops]

A partial solution is changing the brake fluid. It won't completely resolve the problem, but it's a definite improvement and only costs a few bucks and a few minutes. No recommendation on brands - I used whatever type 4 I had around the house and found it was better than the stuff Kaw uses.

 

[libskater]

I've just learned to ride barely using the rear brakes and saving them for when i really need them. then i try to clutch while i brake so i dont stall the engine. works for me

 

[John Harris]

One other thing that helps reduce speed on downhills is lower gearing. If you have not tried it, switch to a 12 tooth counter shaft (front) sproket. Lots of threads on this here, but you will not have to do anything to chain length, etc.
Of course, if you really want to go slow, just pull in the clutch and use BOTH brakes.
Ride on--John

 

[JasonWho]

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