Transmission Oil

[goldman15]

Manual calls for 10w-30 or 10w-40. Can I use reqular car motor oil or is it a special motorcycle 10w-30 or 40? Thanks even though I know this might be a stupid question. Currently I have Bel Ray Gear Saver 80wt. I want to try what is recommened to see if any performance change.

 

[BRush]

This subject has been discussed extensively. Use the "SEARCH" button at the top of the screen to search this forum for "TRANSMISSION" and "OIL"

 

[Ensign]

I hate to beat what is obviously considered a dead horse around here, but I read through the threads that came up when I searched for transmission oil (14 of them) and I couldn't find an exact answer to my question, so here goes....

Is that any standard 10W40 for the transmission oil or is it synthetic? I'm pretty sure the Mobil 1 is not synthetic, but I can't remember.

Also, what type of oil should I use for premix? I'm not positive what kind the previous owner used. I'm planning on draining the tank, but is there anything wrong with using non-synthetic if he used synthetic or vice versa? And is 40:1 the most popular ratio to use?

Sorry for the questions that I know have been asked a million times, but I couldn't find the answers.

Thanks a bunch!
---
Brandon
'99 KDX 200

 

[MADisher]

Transmission oil. Yes, standard 10w-40 Castrol or what have ya. Though there was talk that the newer oils have an aditive that is not good for the clutch. I have not experienced this, though and use Castrol 10w40 when I'm out of the Spectro 80wt gear lube which I prefer.

Pre-Mix, there are again 1000 different opinions on this, and a lot of options. You can certainly change to a synthetic if the prior owner used a non-synthetic and visa versa. Just don't do it mid-tank or mix em. 32:1 is pretty standard, I'd start there. 40:1 will cause you bike to run a tad richer, but if it's jetted right then you might wanna stick to that.

-MD

 

[Ensign]

Thanks, Matt. I appreciate it! :)
---
Brandon

 

[FLBob]

Ensign

Know what you mean by not being able to find a definitive answer. I've been studying these forums ever since I found them - really informative and helpful. But you have to dismiss some info that just doesn't seem right.

Anyhow, there is a good article around here somewhere, I can't find it - I think on JustKDX but I can't get there right now - server problem? After I read that article I was convinced that regular motor oil was not right for wet clutch applications, so I have switched to oil specially made for motorcycle transmissions - no particular brand. I think I did decide on a brand based on the forum info but could not find it.

Same with premix oil, but did run into Belray "specially formulated for power valves" that I'm trying.

 

[motox]

Brandon, You read these posts alot dont you? My 1992 KDX200 had 10-40 in it when I bought it. It just had a new clutch put in it. It still slipped a bit. The 10-40 thinned out to quick too. It didn't hold up to the heat and friction. I changed to bel ray gear saver $5 a bottle, best 5 I ever spent. No clutch slippage at all. way cool Pre-mix, I was using bel-ray too. Is it expensive where you live? It is here. I change to Spectra Gold, I noticed less smoke more power and it cost about $16 for a gallon. Hope some of this information helps.

 

[70 marlin]

using belray 80W

the stuff looks and smells like auto/trans fluid? so far so good. was using this stuff called clutch saver. worked fine, parts guy at my favorite dealer ship talked me in too the belray?

 

[kdx22097]

I used Amoco 10w-30 in my 220 (sold) for three and a half years. Never any clutch problems. Just purchased new 01 kdx 200 and will use Amoco 10w-30 in this machine too. First thing I did when I got it home was to put a few miles on it to get the transmission oil heated up and then I dumped that oil right out of the there. I didn't want any leftover metal swimming around in the transmission. I change mine usually every 2 to 3 rides or in between 100-150 miles.

 

[MADisher]

I think I read somewhere that recently there was a change in a chemical or additive to 'standard' motor oil that makes it not-so-good for wet clutches. It didn't used to be that way.

I really believe if it was bad, Kawi wouldn't recommend it or specify it. While I think there is nothing wrong with using the Belray 80wt gear oil, or the Sectro 80wt (which is what I use) I think if it was absolutely necessary Kawi would call for it. Or maybe they have and I just don't know where to look.

In the past with my RM I had used Mobile 10w40 and had some slippage. I think that's when I read about the additive, and I *believe* that Catrol 10w40 doesn't have this particular additive, and I've been using it w/o any issues at all (i.e. no slippage).

So to summarize:
I use Castrol 10w40 in my RM because I think it works well and I bought a bunch of it.
I use the Spectro 80wt in my KDX becuase I tried it and liked it.

Your milage may vary.
-MD

 

[WR 250]

Here is an interesting article a ran across while looking for info on dualsport bikes http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/oilreport.html

It is worth a look and I think it may help you with your question.

 

[BRush]

rockrider, I read through that report and , while interesting, mainly seems to look at the oil from a strictly chemical perspective - with the assumption that the oil with the "better" additive package will be the superior oil. I'm not sure that always plays out. For an interesting read from another point of view, check this link out:

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm

 

[cyclers10]

I was using belray gear saver 80wt but another dealer said any bike over 125cc should use the 85wt gear saver , 125 and under the 80 wt, Go figure? Any ideas on that? later c10

 

[WR 250]

BRush,
That was an interesting article. So far I have not read anything that makes me want to switch to high priced motorcycle specific oils. I always just fall back on what I learned from my late college shop teacher, "if it has the API circular symbol on the back then it is a good oil". He didn't feel any reason to spend more money than necessary on oil and in the 9 years of following his advice, I've never had any failures to make me believe he was incorrect.

This thinking has shocked some of my friends when they discoved I always bought NAPA oil when it was on sale and now I'm using (gasp) Wal-Mart oil.

Last year I pulled the valve covers off my 350 in my truck to change the gaskets. The heads were completely clean, and the engine has over 80,000 miles on it. Last night while changing the tranny oil in my KDX I looked at the manufacturers oil recommendations and didn't see anything that said I should be spending additional money. Anyhow I always change my oil at the most frequent intravels listed and never had a problem. My two cents for whatever it is worth.

 

[JimVowell]

BRush. Im with you. I use 10W40 and have never had an issue. More times than not I think there may be some slight added benifit to a specialize racing type oil, but if you change it often no big deal. Its kind of like stereo equipment. Your ear can hear the difference between $100.00 amp and a 3000.00 one, but the diffence between $3000.00 and $20,000.00 is less noticeable....Bottom line how much do you want to spend ....JV

 

[Fred T]

Originally posted by JimVowell
BRush. Im with you. I use 10W40 and have never had an issue. More times than not I think there may be some slight added benifit to a specialize racing type oil, but if you change it often no big deal. Its kind of like stereo equipment. Your ear can hear the difference between $100.00 amp and a 3000.00 one, but the diffence between $3000.00 and $20,000.00 is less noticeable....Bottom line how much do you want to spend ....JV

You should hear my VAC Renaissance 70/70 amp! 300B Triode Tube power! :cool:

 

[NDRO]

Rockrider,
There's something to bear in mind with the IBMWR link. BMW's have dry clutches, and the engine, tranny, shaft, and final drive lubes are all seperated.
Although it's a fantastic article, it doesn't fall into the same catagory as lube used in a KDX, where the same unfiltered oil is used for engine, tranny, and clutch bath.

Kind of apples to oranges.

 

[andrew]

NDRO, the oil isn't used for the engine; thats what premix is for...but I know you knew that!

For my two bob's worth, I don't buy any expensive racing oils either. I believe motor oils used for petrol cars can have additives in them that can cause clutch slippage. I use a detergent oil for diesel engines and don't have any slippage problems.

 

[WR 250]

NDRO,
That is true. I was thinking along the lines of the F650 when I submitted the link and didn't take into consideration the larger machines. But mainly I just wanted to provide more info on the subject.

Oil, more so than most items, is very subject to personal beliefs and opinions. My feeling is that the greater number of studies that are made available the better.

 

[dirt bike dave]

FWIW, there is a wide range of what people put into their KDX gearboxes. Alll kinds and weights of motor oil, ATF and special gear oil.

Some people put in a full liter of fluid, others put in 800cc.

Some people change it every ride, some maybe once a year.

Everyone does something different, but there is a common theme - These bikes have long clutch life and almost never have an oil related gearbox failure!

That tells me that the KDX is not highly stressed and you will have adequate protection with just about any of the alternatives. Within reason, put in whatever makes you happy - your KDX doesn't care.

:)

 

[jimicarl]

HOO-AAH!

i like dirt bike dave's reply. just like anything else..., keep the oil clean and it'll run forever. regardless of what you're using.

i've been using castrol automotive oils (synthetic blend) in my '99 kdx ever since i got it. i'm not at all worried about the clutch. but i am a bit put off by the kdx's notchy shifting. i think the synthetic oil smooths the tranny action a bit.

i've read all the stuff in the mag's about not running synthetic crankcase oils in four-strokes, and personally think it's a whole bunch of synthobabble mumbo jumbo for the 99.9% of don't run out bikes anywhere near their limits.

triumph recommended mobil-1 for my '95 speed triple. i bought it new and have run full synthetics in it ever since. no tranny problems. no clutch problems.

if i were to believe the nay-sayer's ultra-conservative approach on this, you'da thought the thing would've grenaded by now! on the other hand..., an overbuilt under-stressed street motor is a far cry from a yzf426.

keep it clean, bud!

 

[spanky250]

I share dave's belief in the low stress and high durability of the KDX tranny, so I don't feel the need to use high-dollar gear oil. I run ATF type F, a full quart, and change it every other ride. I have had zero problems with the tranny or clutch, and the bike shifts just fine with the ATF.