WER oil change (review and Q)

[mnnthbx]

After I purchased my WER a few weeks back, I honestly wasn't that impressed. As a few rides went by, it began to grow on me a bit, and after filling it with BelRay 7w oil, in place of the stock BR 5w, it worked quiet a bit better.

The manual says something to the effect of "if you can feel it on the stand, it's most likely too tight" Dead wrong. I can feel mine a ton on the stand (7wt. full closed) and it works much better on the trail. (for my tastes) I ride lots of 1st and 2nd gear river bed crossings and such, and it needs that level of stiffness to work well at low speed.

I've seen on here in the past, that stiff dampeners wear folks out on the trail. I've only used the WER, but I'd have to run 80w instead of 7w, before it would beome a stamina issue. Those guys need to join the gym.

My question is this. When I changed over to the 7w, I made every attempt to get all the air out. The unit went on the bike and operated very smooth. After that first ride with the new oil, now it seems notchy going from side to side on the stand. Is this trapped air? It's hard to hear the air sound if there is one over all the moving cables, bearings, etc...

Thoughts?

 

[Woodsquest]

While I no longer have a WER, I found this proceedure today on how to change the oil and not get air trapped inside. Hope it helps!

WER's method of changing oil leaves me suspecting that air can easily stay in the device dispite following the oil change / bleed proceedure. Here's a method that works great. Use a Fernco (brand name) pipe coupling. It is a tubular rubber pipe coupling, a 2" that mounts with a hose clamp. $2.99 at the local Ace Hardware store, and one coupling will make two devices. It's for 2" pipe, nominal ID slightly less than 2.5" and a perfect fit. Cut the rubber sleeve so that it is 1" taller than the body of the damper. Use the method in the manual to push out the old fluid. Remove the arm from the damper and put the sleeve and hose clamp on. Fill the sleeve so that about 1" of oil covers the top of the damper. remove the fill screw and the adjustment screw and work the shaft back and forth slowly until the bubbles stop. You won't believe how much air gets trapped inside using the method in the manual. These couplings are available at any hardware or plumbing supply store.

 

[mnnthbx]

Thats funny. I actually did it that way. Found the info on it at KYMtalk. Thanks.

 

[canyncarvr]

Hhhmmmm....this sounds familiar to me. Mostly 'cuz I have the same point of view.

Is the 'notch' you feel just the dead spot in the middle? That's normal.

I'm running15 or 20w in mine. Full closed. It's better than nothing, but not by a whole lot.

I wanna Scotts......;)

 

[mnnthbx]

CC, it's two or three faint notches each side of the center. I'd say I'll end up going thicker on the oil too. 10w. anyway. If I ever get around to picking up some 10w., perhaps when I change it, I'll cure the prob..

Have you spent time with a Scott's or GPR? In what ways are they better? I think w/ 10w. I'll be plenty happy with mine. Like a said, it's growing on me.

 

[canyncarvr]

Only takes a few minutes to take the thing off the bike...check it in a vise.

As you may have read or already know, these things (WERS) are famous for being unbalanced...they differ center-to-left from center-to-right in damping action.

WER's point of view (I've asked them) is, 'There must be some cables in the way that are making it feel different.'

Well...except I told them the thing was doing it OFF the bike!

It's them not listening that is kind of a put-off to me....

I've read of riders sending thier units in to WER to be rebuilt for that exact reason...and it came back the same way!!

Anyway...yes, I've ridden a good bit with a Scotts. Personally, I would prefer being able to set the thing TOO tight. Then I would be able to select my preference on either side of what I like. Can't do that with the WER because you can't GET it too tight (sez me. We both know what they say about it. I don't agree with 'em).

The Scotts has both lo and hi speed circuits. They interact to some extent.

The reason I didn't choose a Scotts in the first place was the mounting method. The bushed handlebars of the kdx are a known trouble spot for the Scotts. Besides that, a little bit of thought into the issue will tell you that the less distance there is between the inflection and the damping, the better the thing will work.

Although one of the adjustments on the Scotts (angle of effect) would be a tad hard to get to, when I actually get around to getting one, it's going on top of the fender.

For everyone that has a Scotts on their kdx and thinks, 'I have one..and the top mount is fine!'....that's nice. No need to say anything about it. I'm glad you like it.....my opinion isn't the same as yours, is all.

Oh...the Scotts was on a 200exc. Riding that thing without a damper is a deathwish! ...another imo moment.... ;)

 

[Wolf]

I had a WER on my KDX, 7wt oil (I think cc turned me on to that). I was happy with it, I didn't have anything to compare it too.
I now have a GPR (top mount) on my KTM. The dial goes from position 1 to 6. To have it set to comparable resistance with the WER at just about fully closed, I have to....well, I can't. Even at 1 the GPR has more resistance, and I like it. Yes I can feel it on the stand, yes it took a ride to get used to and yes, I like it better now than my WER...

 

[Jim Crenca]

I'm glad to hear about the left to center / right to center different damping issues; thought I was loosing my mind. I've only had 1 ride with it and it's set at nearly full damping. I can see that I might want it tighter as I get used to it. It allows me to ride faster for sure.
I was flying and not realizing how wet the earth was below a grass section and that damper absolutely saved me from a big high speed crash. I didn't realize it would be a benefit in the mud as well on the ruts and chop.
Thanks for the Fernco tip; makes perfect sense.

 

[canyncarvr]

Just because the WER is different right and left...and you feel it.... doesn't mean you are not losing your mind.

Cheers!

 

[Jim Crenca]

Thanks a lot.
Haven't tried to take the thing apart, but you'd think it would be easier to manufacture valving that was symetrical and (in theory) would have very similar characteristics in both directions from center