Orange Rider
Member
- May 30, 2006
- 12
- 0
ive done it on my 85 and it was easy. i cant imagine it being too much harder on a bigger bike, canit?
GhostRider32 said:No one can explain this??? In a round about way, my question is how do you know if you need an "A" "B" or "C" piston size?
rockers109 said:Yes, hone the cylinder with a ball hone. 240 grit aluminum oxide ball hone that's about 10% smaller than the cylinder. That's what Eric recommends, that's what I use. If you don't the rings don't seal well and you'll be doing another top end very soon. That's the mistake most make. Can't just slap the piston in and go. Buy one of Eric's books it has great info. Hey Bike_Rider250 the wear limit is .004 time to replace it. That's the maximum wear. But I'd replace it.
kshackleton said:I have a couple of questions here:
1. Kawasaki states that my 2001 KX250 has a cylinder that cannot be honed or bored....comments?
2. You state that the ball hone must be 10% smaller? than the bore....should that not be larger?
3. my compression [cold] is 175 psi, the bike starts first kick, and runs excellent. I have put perhaps 10 hours on it since I bought it [15 max], but I have no idea when the last top-end was done. Should I do it to be safe, or wait for the compression to drop a little?
Thanks
Ken